GRIM TIME SAVING FACE
EXPERT WORKSHOP ADVICE
I’ve been mountain biking for a little over two years and my riding is progressing. Now, I’m debating getting a full-face helmet. But, I’m not doing any gnarly DH tracks – do I need one for trail riding and the occasional bike park trip? Jeff Creel, Newport
Opting for a full-face is always a smart move when tackling more challenging trails. A spill can happen with minimal warning, especially when you’re working on your skills or pushing your limits, and a full-face provides valuable extra protection. The downside is that they’re heavier and hotter than open-face lids, and often more expensive, too.
A good compromise is a convertible helmet, which can be transformed from a full-face into an open-face lid. On easygoing days, leave the chin guard behind for uninterrupted vision and maximum airflow. When hitting the bike park, attach it for full-face security. If riding a mix of stuff, leave it in your pack until needed. Because these lids are aimed at enduro/trail riders, they tend to be lighter and bettervented than full-on DH helmets.
There are numerous options on the market. Our favourites include the Giro Switchblade MIPS, Bell Super DH, Leatt Enduro 3.0 and MET Parachute MCR. The latter has been our tech ed Tom’s saviour on more than one occasion, preserving both his chin and his teeth.
Wearing a full-face is a decision you’re unlikely to regret, but not doing so might be.
RISE AND FALL
I’m having some issues with my dropper post. It feels sticky going down and often doesn’t return to full height. The post is only a couple of months old so shouldn’t need a service. Any ideas what could be going on? Chloe Lasher, via email
The good news is that it’s unlikely your dropper needs a service. Before diving into a thorough inspection, there are a couple of simple checks to perform.
One often-overlooked factor is seat clamp tightness. Putting too much pressure on the post where it enters the frame can cause the stanchion to bind within the lower tube, preventing it from returning fully. To assess this, actuate the post and push the saddle down, then loosen the seat clamp and press the remote lever. If the post returns to its full height, you’ve likely identified the issue. Tighten the seat clamp to the manufacturer’s recommended torque setting – typically, 4-5Nm.
If the problem persists, it might be a cable issue. Even on new bikes, internal routing with sharp angles can cause trouble. Remove the post from the bike and inspect the outer cable. Severe kinks or wear could be the culprit, necessitating a replacement. Similarly, if the inner cable is kinked, frayed or rusted, installing a fresh one could resolve your dropper issues. A helpful tip when replacing the inner cable is to apply a drop of lube as you insert it into the outer; this will help everything run smoothly.
One final thing to check is air pressure. Most droppers rely on an air spring, accessible via a Schrader valve at the seatpost head or base. If pressure drops too low, this can slow down the post’s return speed, to the extent that it struggles to fully re-extend. Attach a shock pump and make sure the spring is inflated to the recommended pressure.
TAKE A SEAT
I’ve splashed out on winter tyres, but I’m struggling to set them up tubeless. They just won’t pop onto the rim! Can it be done with an ordinary track pump, or do I have to fork out for a combination pump, air chamber or compressor? Sam Delver, Ipswich
Setting up tubeless tyres can sometimes feel like a daunting task, but fear not – there are a few tricks to ease the process without burning a hole in your wallet.
First, remove the tubeless valve core – this will allow air to rush into the tyre more swiftly. Also, give the rim a light spray of warm washing-up liquid, to help the tyre slip into place. If that doesn’t cut it, try reducing the air volume of the tyre, by adding an extra layer or two of rim tape. This will sit it higher on the rim, reducing the distance it needs to travel to snap into place. A final tip is to wrap a couple of belts around the tyre’s circumference, so the pumped air is redirected at the sidewalls.
If all else fails, visit a bike shop and ask nicely to borrow their pump or air compressor. Building a good relationship with your local shop is an investment that’ll pay off. Good luck!