SPOTLIGHT ON: Derma rolling
SKIN NEEDLING ISN’T AS SCARY AS IT SOUNDS! WE INVESTIGATE THIS TREND AND HOW YOU CAN DIY…
At-home beauty treatments have become more popular as we investigate DIY options during the pandemic – and one that’s gained some serious buzz is the derma roller.
A variation of the in-clinic treatment of microneedling, which boasts celeb fans including Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow, this popularity is no surprise, given the benefits. From skin healing, pore and wrinkle reduction and a promise to aid pigmentation, derma rollers seem to do it all. But when needles – to the face, no less – are introduced, there’s sure to be questions…
WHAT IS A DERMA ROLLER?
In simple terms, a derma roller looks and functions like a paint roller, except it’s less fluffy and has more spikes. The hand-held device is made with a cylindrical end, sporting tiny micro needles around its circumference. These micro needles come in different lengths, most commonly between 0.2mm and 1.0mm, for different levels of intensity.
HOW DO I USE IT?
A derma roller is essentially the at-home version of a microneedling treatment. As with the use of any beauty tool, you should first cleanse your face thoroughly as this prevents the needles from spreading bacteria. Then apply an essence or toner to help skin stay soft and prepped.
For a delicate area such as the face, gently work the derma roller with one hand in a systematic, horizontal approach from the centre outwards and on both sides of the face. Start at your forehead and work your way down to the chin, and only use special, targeted devices for the eye area.
DO DERMA ROLLERS WORK?
The theory is derma rollers create controlled injuries to the skin in the form of micro punctures. This sends signals to your body for a boost in collagen and elastin production.
Numerous studies show an improvement for a range of skin conditions such as acne scarring, melasma and hair loss. The results also point to an overall plumping and firming of the skin. However, the studies admit to methodological shortcomings such as the small size of their testing samples, and larger controlled clinical trials would be required for more concrete conclusions.
IS IT SAFE?
Although the studies mentioned above don’t report any harm caused by derma rollers, this isn’t a green light to roll with abandon. Those with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne cysts should avoid using the device.
It is also recommended to avoid introducing derma rolling and retinol products at the same time, as starting both simultaneously may be too intense for the skin. Limit your sessions to once a week and use an SPF product for an extra layer of protection while your skin adapts to a new treatment.
Lastly, it’s best to forgo any derma rollers with a needle length greater than 1.5mm – anything longer should be performed by a professional.