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IN-SEASON RHUBARB

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Autumn wouldn’t be the same without a warming rhubarb pie or crumble, enhanced by rhubarb’s lovely rich tang. Pick a bunch with firm, crisp stalks. Deeper red stalks aren’t necessaril­y sweeter but they look prettier, retaining a gorgeous crimson hue when cooked. Remove the leaves – they contain oxalic acid and should never be eaten. Trim root end, rinse stalks under cold water, then cut into even-sized pieces. The water clinging to the stalks after washing is usually sufficient moisture to cook it, as it releases a lot of liquid. Typically stewed in a saucepan with sugar to sweeten, or tossed with sugar and vanilla and roasted until tender and syrupy, rhubarb can also be stirred directly into cake mixes or used for tangy jams and relishes.

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