Enchanting EDINBURGH
THERE’S SO MUCH TO EXPLORE IN THE SCOTTISH CAPITAL
In much of Scotland there’s an almost unspoken rule: when the sun’s out, drop everything and go enjoy it while you can. So, as I stood in the kitchen of my Airbnb contemplating what to have for breakfast, the sight of a morning sky growing bluer and bluer with promise was force enough to make me ignore my appetite, reach for the camera and keys, and rush out the door in excitement.
WEATHER FORECAST
I’d come to Edinburgh, that elegant city of cobbled streets once home to some of the world’s most revered writers (Sherlock Holmes’ Arthur Conan Doyle and Treasure Island ’s Robert Louis Stevenson are just two of a very large pool) with low expectations weather-wise. “It always rains there,” people warned me. (In truth, this isn’t quite correct: official statistics show the city experiences rain on 120-odd days of the year, though Scotland certainly has its fair share of grey.) Which is why, strolling through Princes Street Gardens, the majestic park smack in the city centre, I couldn’t help
but feel both incredibly lucky and grateful to Edinburgh for revealing its brighter side to me.
ON A HIGH
After three days of exploring,
I quickly learnt that the best way to appreciate this place was from above. And Edinburgh has numerous vantage points from which to do so.
For the adventurous, the obvious choice is Arthur’s Seat, a commanding green hill that is in fact the remains of an extinct volcano. Trekking up the sometimes rocky path to reach the 251-metre-high summit, much of Edinburgh’s most photographed landmarks, like Calton Hill and Scott Monument, were now almost indistinguishable to me among the mass of a city that merged with green hills.
The other obvious – and easier – choice for taking in the view is the aforementioned Calton Hill. Sitting at the top is the National Monument, known as Edinburgh’s Acropolis for its Parthenon-inspired columns. This observation point faces Arthur’s Seat and provided a contrast to what I’d previously seen. It was a great way to appreciate the city’s Gothic architecture.
FIT FOR A KING
Then, of course, there’s Edinburgh Castle. Imposing and impossible to ignore, it’s served as everything from a royal residence through to a prison and fortress, and currently houses the Honours of Scotland, the oldest Crown jewels in all of Britain. Add to this, it’s one of the grandest castles in Europe, which explains why crowds flock here at all times of the day. Of course, it goes without saying that tickets should be purchased in advance to avoid disappointment.
PLENTY TO SEE AND DO
While Edinburgh boasts an impressive number of daytrips – the largest city, Glasgow, is just over an hour away by train, and buses to the famous Loch Ness depart daily – this is the sort of place you just want to keep wandering and absorb.
You might decide to take any one of the narrow laneways that could lead to a bar or museum, or follow the Water of Leith along the quaint Dean Village all the way to the National Galleries Modern One and Modern Two, twin galleries home to thoughtprovoking modern art.
Whichever path you follow, you’ll be impressed and itching to return here – no matter what the weather may hold.