Ask Matthew...
Our resident Nikon expert Matthew Richards answers your questions and solves your problems. If you have a Nikon-related question, email it to mail@nphotomag.com
Q
The ‘back button’ autofocus isn’t working on my D7500 and the viewfinder shows AE-L instead of focus indication. The word ‘FLICKER’ also sometimes flashes in bottom right-hand corner. Brian Rankin
A
The AE-L/AF-L ‘back button’ on the D7500 – as well as a number of other Nikon cameras – locks the auto-exposure and autofocus settings by default. You’ll need to change its function in the Controls section of the Custom Settings Menu. Scroll down to position ‘f1’ Custom Controls Assignment and you can change the functions of various controls. These include swapping the action of the AE-L/ AF-L button to AF-ON. AF should now be activated by pressing the back button.
The D7500 has a ‘Flicker reduction indicator’ option, available near the bottom of the Photo Shooting Menu. When enabled, you’ll often get a ‘FLICKER’ warning in the viewfinder when shooting under lighting that’s based on mains-powered LED or fluorescent bulbs. There’s also a ‘Flicker reduction’ function in the same menu. When enabled, this optimizes the shot timing to reduce the effects of flicker.
Q
I’ve bought a Nikon SB-400 Speedlight. How do I set it to work with my Nikon D300S?
Tom Williams
A
To select different flash modes, press and hold the D300S’S flash button (lightning symbol), which is located on the front left side of the camera, just below the pop-up flash button. With the flash button pressed in, rotate the camera’s main command dial (rear) with your thumb to select the various available flash modes of front-curtain sync, red-eye reduction, red-eye reduction with slow sync, slow sync or rear-curtain sync. To make positive (brighter) or negative (darker) flash exposure adjustments, press and hold the D300S’S flash button, but rotate the camera’s sub-command dial (front).
Q
I was disappointed to see your advice in issue 120 to avoid the Nikon 28-300mm VR. I’ve found it to be very sharp and versatile with my D850.
John Heywood
A
I’m sorry if you feel I was unfair in my comments. I think if any lens works for you and you’re happy with the overall performance and quality,
that’s the only thing that matters. But when reviewing lenses and giving advice to readers, we need to take the results of our lab-testing and ‘real world’ tests into account.
On both counts, we’ve found that ‘standard zoom’ lenses for full-frame Nikon DSLRS tend to be sharper than the 28-300mm, throughout an albeit more limited zoom range, and across the entire image frame. Naturally, many photographers will feel that the 28-300mm is sharp enough, but those who want to retain the greatest levels of detail in their images, made available by hi-res cameras like the D850, will prefer a ‘sharper’ lens.
Q
I bought a pair of Yongnuo YN685 Speedlite flashguns for my Z 6 last year. I’ve now upgraded to a Z 6II and they no longer work. What’s wrong? Pete Jennings
A
The problem is that they are, unfortunately, incompatible with the Z 6II and Z 7II, and won’t trigger when placed in the hotshoe of the camera. Some flashguns from other companies, including Godox, have the same issue. I’m hoping future firmware releases will fix the problem, but there’s no sign of one yet.
One bright spot is that you can still use your flashguns off-camera, in all flash modes, triggering them with a Yongnuo YN622N-TX I-TTL Wireless Flash Controller. This works in the hotshoe of new cameras without any problems, and communicates wirelessly via the RF (Radio Frequency) transceivers built into your YN685 flashguns.