NPhoto

Backyard Beasts!

Get ready to photograph amazing wildlife no matter where you live with Tom Mason and his comprehens­ive tips and tricks

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Discover how you can take ace shots of everyday animals

When it comes to the single piece of advice I’d give to wildlife photograph­ers – be it those starting out, developing their craft, or just looking for a new challenge – it would be to get started on your very own local wildlife photograph­y project! It doesn’t matter if it’s blue tits in the garden, frogs in the pond or the local street fox, find something close to home that you can work and develop photograph­ically. Over the past few years I’ve had the luxury of working on a variety of internatio­nal assignment­s, from watching elephants in the Okavango to camera trapping for jaguars in the Amazon. They certainly offered some amazing opportunit­ies for wildlife photograph­y, but when it comes to developing my work, style and shooting techniques, that’s always been a job for home.

Be it the garden, a local nature reserve or the graveyard at the end of the road, it’s simply amazing the abundance of wildlife photograph­y opportunit­ies you can find in your neighbourh­ood. Granted, it might not contain some of the more exotic wildlife, but you’ll be surprised by the wildlife we are lucky

to have on our shores. The moment you really start to explore, it’s incredible how much potential is right outside your window and how, through a little thought, experiment­ation and long-term commitment, you’ll be able to make some of your best wildlife photograph­y ever, a mere stone’s throw from the back door!

THE PROJECT MINDSET

Now, as much as wandering the local lanes, footpaths and parkland looking for subjects to shoot is enjoyable, in terms of making consistent successful images, it’s certainly less fruitful. We have all done it, just picked up the camera, headed out and stumbled across an amazing encounter with wildlife. But, more often than not, the ‘walkabout’ style provides a selection of half-baked possibilit­ies that you’re not prepared for, and that rarely materializ­e as winning images. For success with local wildlife projects, then, the mindset needs to be a little different, with methodical being the operative word! It may feel a little strange, at first, to find some methodolog­y behind your wildlife shooting, but in practice it’s a game changer. Distilling it down, there are three key stages to any project I’m working on: research, setup and shoot.

Research your subjects

Time spent on research is never wasted and for local projects it can be a mix of hitting the books as well as getting your boots on. Ideas for local wildlife projects can appear anywhere – be it stepping out of the car in town and spotting a fox or catching a glimpse of a barn owl over a local field, these first glimpses providing a starting point for further exploratio­n. With a subject in mind, a lot of the time I want to get to know them, and so opening up my laptop, reference books and guides, I’ll get stuck into learning more. Habits and habitats, tracks and signs: get to know what you should be looking for with an idea of building up a better picture of where, when and how you can find your subject, helping to engineer more time with them in front of your lens!

Time spent on research is never wasted and for local projects it can be a mix of hitting the books as well as getting your boots on

Scout locations

Be sure to record things as you go, I find a project notebook or diary can be really helpful in order to keep track of ideas for images or locations. Often I’ll have a few subjects I’m working on at once, so it’s handy to keep notes, especially if some projects are being worked on over months or even years.

With the base knowledge down, get out and apply it to your locations. Scout areas with binoculars, looking to understand where your subjects are, and then use this knowledge to think about how to position yourself for images. Note the direction the sun will set or rise, any prevailing winds, and so on. Shoot dummy shots to explore compositio­ns and

ideas, ensuring a location will fulfil what you’re after before committing to hours in wait.

That methodical process works to give you the best opportunit­y for photograph­ic success!

Get set to shoot

With your research conducted and locations scouted, it’s time for the fun part behind the camera. Trust in your research and commit to the locations you’ve scouted, get into position for the optimum time, and then focus on the images or compositio­ns you’ve visualized. Return repeatedly until it comes together and look

to explore the opportunit­ies. If you hit gold with a location, be sure to commit as much time as you can and reap the rewards of your methodical approach!

GARDEN BIRDS

When it comes to a local wildlife project, the garden truly is the obvious place to start. Even the smallest of spaces can offer some awesome opportunit­ies for wildlife images. With the close proximity allowing for access on a whim, they are ideal for making the most of those short windows of time in your day, or changing weather conditions.

Find your site

Building your own garden bird feeding station is a great little project that almost anyone can do. Starting from scratch, in a few weeks you can have a multitude of species and photograph­ic potential outside your window. Firstly watch the garden for a day or two. Don’t worry about the birds, but the way the light moves through the day: where the light touches, how shadows fall and the possible background­s you’ll have to play with. Look for a spot where you have a decent clean background, with a site to place a feeding perch around three to four metres in front. The simplest way is to use a movable post that will allow for the feeder position to be changed, but if you already have a location set up for your feeders then work from there.

Set the stage

With feeders hung, you’ll want to place a couple of perches around them. Directly attach these to your movable feeder post (I find a few reusable cable ties work wonders), or if you have feeders in place, just find a way to position your perch in a way that puts it close to the feeders, giving the birds a spot to perch on before feeding.

When choosing perches, be sure to think about the types of bird you’re looking to attract. Smaller garden birds look unnatural on big sticks, so look for thin twigs of around half-a-centimetre thick. If you have larger birds, such as woodpecker­s, wider branches aid in a more natural-looking frame.

Plan the shot

As this is where you’ll be making your images, when setting up it’s a good idea to position your camera where you’ll want to be shooting from, working out your compositio­n and background. Everything set, leave the feeders for a few weeks for the birds to get used to settling on the perches, as it will take them a while to get consistent in using the new branches or finding the feeders if you have only just put them up. Once the birds are coming in, get out and make the most of your garden shoots. Mix up the perches every so often and get creative. Try substituti­ng the background with an old sheet for a splash of colour, or work with a remote camera set close to the perch for wide-angle images. A great project for home, it’s also perfect for making the most of any weather conditions, with wintry flurries really adding to the look of garden bird images. Of course, if you’re close enough to the house, with a little planning you can shoot from an open door or window with a cup of tea in hand – not too bad indeed!

If you’re close enough to the house, with a little planning you can shoot from an open door or window with a cup of tea in hand

KEEP IT LOCAL

Venturing outside the garden there is huge potential for wildlife photograph­y in the local area, with fields, parkland and scrub offering a whole host of photograph­ic opportunit­ies.

Park life

Parkland is a great place for wildlife photograph­y, largely due to the number of people you find there! It seems a little counter-intuitive, but with increased visitors, wildlife is often far tamer and more easily approached than anything outside. Park lakes or ponds can be awesome for photograph­ing waterbirds. Get low on the water’s edge with a telephoto lens, and you can pick out subjects and isolate them with a wider aperture like f/4 or f/5.6.

If you’re working on this style of image for prolonged periods, think about a right-angled viewfinder or work with the vari-angle screen on your mirrorless camera. The super-low water level view can really enhance the look of the shots, giving a great natural look.

Farmland

Growing up in Hertfordsh­ire I’m used to being surrounded by arable fields flanked by hedgerows. If you are lucky enough to live out in a more rural location, these can be great places to develop a local project. Of course, much farmland is private land, so be sure to get permission before venturing off the known footpaths. I have always found farmers and landowners great to work with, and a bottle of wine or box of beer, along with a couple of prints, often works well to gain access to some new locations!

When springtime comes around, farmland is the perfect place to look for one of my favourite subjects, the brown hare. You’ll almost always find me through March and April crawling around in

the fields, stalking these fantastic long-eared mammals. Most of the time I’ll watch from a distance for a few days, in order to asses their habits and the corners of the fields they tend towards, before positionin­g myself around midday and waiting for the sun to drop. Drab colours and a low position, lying down, can reward you with stunning close encounters. If trying to stalk closer, watch for them to return to feeding before crawling a metre or two and stopping again. Shoot as you go to get them used to the shutter sound, which reduces the risk of spooking them before the perfect moment.

When it comes to settings, I almost always want to be shooting around 1/1000 sec at f/4-5.6, depending on the light. This allows for great separation between my subjects and their background for simple, clean images.

Woodland

Offering a different aesthetic and habitat to explore, local woodlands are full of potential. A plethora of subjects find themselves at home, from secluded badger setts to local herds of deer. A great style to shoot here is making the most of natural frames, looking for windows in the foliage, or space between trees to aid your compositio­ns. It might be a deer poking its head round a tree, or a badger caught in-between a mass of foliage, but utilizing

It seems a little counter-intuitive, but with increased visitors wildlife is often far tamer and more easily approached

these small gaps can make for intriguing and depth-filled layered compositio­ns.

NATURE RESERVES

Every wildlife photograph­er should have a favourite local nature reserve, no exceptions. I basically grew up on the wetland reserve just down the road from my house, with the location providing the setting for the first major project I ever published. Having a local reserve you regularly visit has a whole host of benefits in terms of additional subjects and habitats of course, but also the community you’ll find around them.

Habitats

Specifical­ly engineered to have flourishin­g habitats, local reserves can have great diversity and species concentrat­ion. The management for year-round productivi­ty means that, compared to surroundin­g open areas, nature reserves can really be packed with activity and unique environmen­ts, giving us photograph­ers far more opportunit­ies. The mixture of wet woodland, reed bed, meadow and streams can see one small area hosting kingfisher­s and reed warblers, for example, as well as flocks of waders, birds of prey and more.

If you’re lucky enough to have a wetland reserve close to home, a great subject to get out and look for is the water vole. Very cute and often fairly confiding, small corners of nature reserves can be a haven for these little mammals. After suffering declines from mink predation, population­s are bouncing back around the UK. Favouring slowmoving waterways with rough banks that allow for burrowing, with an abundance of rushes for feeding, a dead giveaway of their presence are small low-lying feeding platforms, or the characterf­ul

Knowledgea­ble and passionate about the local wildlife, staff, volunteers and visitors can be a great help in finding wildlife

‘plop’ they make when jumping into the water after being disturbed. With the location pinned, wait along the water’s edge and try to position yourself at a low angle in order to improve your chances of clean background­s. Look to shoot through gaps in vegetation for added depth in your images.

Permanent hides

On many reserves you’ll find a selection of hides in place around the location, offering a concealed view over select habitats. Permanent in their constructi­on, they allow those inside to remain concealed without disturbing the natural activity. In addition, some hides overlook breeding locations that are otherwise easily disturbed. My old local spot had a great hide for watching kingfisher­s through the summer, offering a chance to view and photograph a nest without the need for a licence. This is perfect for getting close-in views and watching breeding behaviour that would otherwise rarely be possible. Often built with birdwatche­rs in mind, nature reserve hides can seem a little distant at times, but for us photograph­ers it’s all about patience, and committing to the fact that, with enough time and effort on repeated returns to these areas, the wildlife will come to that perfect spot!

Community minded

In addition to all the above, one great thing about local nature reserves are the communitie­s of people within them. Knowledgea­ble and passionate about the local wildlife, staff, volunteers and visitors can be a great help in finding wildlife, getting to know the best spots and helping with your

photograph­ic endeavours. Many of my images would have been impossible without local help.

THE LONG GAME

Rome wasn’t built in a day. We all know that, and successful wildlife photograph­y projects are similar. If you want to build a great body of work with depth to the images and a variety of styles and feels within the portfolio, you have to be committed to the long haul. Experiment­ation is inherently unreliable, and so in order to make a diverse set of images that span multiple styles, moods or seasons, you’ll need time. The long game presents you with the opportunit­y to shape your work as you go, finding what works or doesn’t, while still giving you the ability to lean into an idea or style in order to give direction to your work.

Camera traps

Working with remote cameras is a great style to hone on home turf, be it triggering from a distance or autonomous­ly; they offer the chance to work with wide-angle lenses for a total change of perspectiv­e from the general wildlife photograph­y genre. I’ve been working with various remote camera systems over the past few years, specifical­ly with the idea of creating more unique images of my local wildlife.

In most cases I’m working with a DSLR camera trap, combining an entry-level camera with an infrared trigger and triggered flashes to allow for the capture of wildlife in the landscape. Siting cameras takes time, and with the idea of capturing natural behaviour being pivotal, finding locations that provide consistent activity is key. Once found, I’ll spend a good few hours investigat­ing the location, trying out different compositio­ns as well as assessing the best place for positionin­g the triggers in order to capture the decisive moment. In most cases I’ll be aiming to take control of the exposure with flash, underexpos­ing any ambient light before filling in with my own Speedlight­s. I’ll always use at least two flashes as primary and fill lights, however sometimes images can take up to five flashes for something a little more complicate­d.

Camera traps are certainly a labour of love… long hours to construct, multiple teething problems along the way, so many areas that can go wrong… it can take months to get results. However, this style of photograph­y really can lead to some unique shots and is certainly worth experiment­ing with on your doorstep.

If there is any one piece of advice I would give to anyone when it comes to wildlife photograph­y, it’s to try to take more risks

Risk assessment

A last point is something that I rarely see covered,

but risk is something to be embraced when working on a local project. So often within our photograph­y we stick to safe, reliable methods, going straight for that faster shutter speed and freezing the action.

More often, I find that some of the best images are those made with the element of risk: slowing down that shutter speed to add movement, positionin­g a remote camera in a vulnerable spot, focusing somewhere other than the eye…

If there is any one piece of advice I would give to anyone when it comes to wildlife photograph­y, it’s to try to take more risks. Yes you’ll miss images in the process, but in the long run, you’ll make chances for unique images that are far from the norm!

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 ??  ?? Above: Capturing local foxes was one of the first projects Tom got his teeth stuck into close to home.
Top right: Kestrels are a great bird of prey that can be hard to get close to, unless you know their favourite spots.
Next page far right: A project notebook can be a great place to draw out ideas for compositio­ns and photograph­s.
Next page left: A good pair of binoculars, like Tom’s Nikon Monarch HGS, are ideal for scouting out wildlife locations.
Above: Capturing local foxes was one of the first projects Tom got his teeth stuck into close to home. Top right: Kestrels are a great bird of prey that can be hard to get close to, unless you know their favourite spots. Next page far right: A project notebook can be a great place to draw out ideas for compositio­ns and photograph­s. Next page left: A good pair of binoculars, like Tom’s Nikon Monarch HGS, are ideal for scouting out wildlife locations.
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 ??  ?? Above: Feeders are a great way to start attracting birds into your garden.
Top left: Common species like great tits can make for great pictures, especially when on the right perch.
Bottom left: Experiment with darker background­s with front-lit subjects for greater contrast.
Above: Feeders are a great way to start attracting birds into your garden. Top left: Common species like great tits can make for great pictures, especially when on the right perch. Bottom left: Experiment with darker background­s with front-lit subjects for greater contrast.
 ??  ?? Right: Working with remote cameras can be a great way to find a new perspectiv­e!
Right: Working with remote cameras can be a great way to find a new perspectiv­e!
 ??  ?? Above: Local parks offer fantastic opportunit­ies, even in the heart of London. Shy species are often used to people, making them great areas to get out and shoot in.
Above: Local parks offer fantastic opportunit­ies, even in the heart of London. Shy species are often used to people, making them great areas to get out and shoot in.
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 ??  ?? Above: Always be on the lookout, this peregrine dropped down right outside Tom’s front door; luckily the camera was at the ready.
Above: Always be on the lookout, this peregrine dropped down right outside Tom’s front door; luckily the camera was at the ready.
 ??  ?? Above: Otters are a real treat to photograph, yet many local rivers through the UK now have thriving population­s.
Above: Otters are a real treat to photograph, yet many local rivers through the UK now have thriving population­s.
 ??  ?? Top: Woodland deer parks are great locations throughout the year, especially in the autumn.
Top: Woodland deer parks are great locations throughout the year, especially in the autumn.
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 ??  ?? Above: It took about three months for this little owl camera trap image to come together, with Tom tweaking the compositio­n and lighting over weeks and waiting for the owls to sit just where he wanted them.
Above: It took about three months for this little owl camera trap image to come together, with Tom tweaking the compositio­n and lighting over weeks and waiting for the owls to sit just where he wanted them.
 ??  ?? Above: When you have more time you can experiment with different techniques like this double exposure, shooting multiple exposures and overlaying them for added texture, all done in-camera!
Above: When you have more time you can experiment with different techniques like this double exposure, shooting multiple exposures and overlaying them for added texture, all done in-camera!
 ??  ?? Below: Wide-angle images take time and patience to get right, but the risks are well worth it.
Below: Wide-angle images take time and patience to get right, but the risks are well worth it.

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