NPhoto

Jordan Banks

Award-winning travel photograph­er Jordan Banks shares his tried-and-tested tips and tricks for shooting stunning shots of towns and cities

-

Reigning National Geographic Traveller City Photograph­er of the Year Jordan teaches how to photograph all things urban.

Cities are energetic, vibrant and ever-changing places that can provide photograph­ers with a seemingly endless list of photo opportunit­ies. From amazing skylines and unique architectu­re to the hustle and bustle of the streets, most cities provide enough opportunit­y to inspire any willing photograph­er.

While I love working in the wild, the majority of my assignment­s are actually undertaken in the fascinatin­g concrete jungles that so many of us now call home. I have learnt to love the energy of a city and I believe that some of my strongest images have been taken in urban areas.

At first, cities can be a little intimidati­ng and tough to shoot for even the most experience­d photograph­ers. Being thrown in to a congested city, full of life with distractio­ns at every corner, can be overwhelmi­ng and it’s often hard to know where to start. Through my many years spent shooting cities across the globe; I have found that, when I approach my shots with a clear strategy, I am then better prepared to take full advantage of the countless photo opportunit­ies that present themselves. This allows me to capture the true essence of any location that I happen to find myself in.

In this article, I will take you through some triedand-tested methods to guarantee that you get the most of your time on location and help you produce a

portfolio of photograph­s that, I hope, you will be proud to show off to anyone.

GET INTO GEAR

The gear you choose is vital to the outcome of your shoot but sacrifices will often need to be made as it isn’t always feasible to carry everything. Let’s take a look at some essential items that will allow you to shoot great images all day long.

The marvel of mirrorless

The introducti­on of Nikon’s mirrorless cameras has made photograph­ing cities easier and enables you to produce a high standard of images quickly when compared with a DSLR. But the main reasons for this aren’t what you might think…

While the weight of camera bodies has decreased in mirrorless cameras, this doesn’t actually make a big difference to the overall weight I have to carry on a shoot. This is because the S-line of lenses are roughly the same size and weight as their F-mount equivalent­s. The smaller nature of the Z cameras does, however, make them more subtle, and when combined with the silent shutter option allows you to be less conspicuou­s.

More importantl­y, the introducti­on of an electronic viewfinder has made shooting decisive moments more efficient. Street scenes can have awkward lighting conditions that produce very high contrast, so being able to judge the correct exposure quickly via the viewfinder means more evenly exposed images every time.

This doesn’t mean that DSLRS are any less capable of capturing incredible photograph­s of cities though, after all, I managed pretty well with them for years!

Luggable lenses

There is quite literally a place in the kit bag for any number of lenses, but who wants to be lugging around heavy glassware all day if you don’t need it?

In general, I pack my 14-30mm f/4, 24-70mm f/2.8, and 70-200mm f/2,8, otherwise known as the holy trinity of lenses. Not only are the optics fantastic in all these lenses, but they also have me covered for my most frequently used focal lengths in just three lenses, which I know I can easily carry around all day.

On occasions when I may need that extra bit of reach I’ll take a longer lens, or if I want to keep my kit bag particular­ly light I’ll pack my 35mm and 85mm lenses. It’s really a matter of weighing up what you will be shooting on the day and only carrying what’s necessary, so that you won’t be restricted by the weight or size of your kit.

Bags of choice

A comfortabl­e bag is essential for keeping you mobile. There are loads of good brands out there, so have a good look around to find the one that’s right for you. I really like the F-stop gear bags for their high-quality constructi­on

The gear you choose is vital to the outcome of your shoot but sacrifices will often need to be made

and comfort. I also like the fact that they don’t look like your typical camera bag, which is useful when you want to avoid any unwanted attention!

Travel tripod

This is going to polarize opinion, but I feel a tripod is as essential to shooting in cities as it is for landscapes. Yes, it’s more weight and yes, you may not use your tripod for every shot, but it can really make the difference to those shots where you require a slower shutter speed or wish to add some motion to your imagery.

There are plenty of carbon fibre travel options available that offer lightweigh­t yet sturdy support.

PLANNING YOUR SHOOT

In order to really get the most out of your time photograph­ing in a city, it is imperative that you have a good plan in place for your shoot. I will often start researchin­g a city months before I am due to arrive, meaning that my research will have actually started before I even book anything.

Before anything else, I will be looking at the best time of year to visit. I could settle on a time based on many factors, such as weather, festivals or crowds. For example, I may choose to visit New York in the autumn to capture the fall colours, or Tokyo during the annual Cherry Blossom festival.

Unique views

I spend a lot of time looking for unique ways to shoot a city, so that I avoid having a load of cliché images that have been seen a thousand times over. This may include looking for new rooftop bars or viewing platforms, art installati­ons, buildings or museums that will allow me to a get a fresh and current take on my location.

Cities are constantly changing environmen­ts, so there is always going to be something fresh to shoot and it pays to take the time to find out what’s new.

Route planning

Cities are big places and it can take longer than you think to get around, so I usually put a shoot plan together for each day I am in the city. This means that I waste as little time as possible travelling from one side of the city to the other. I will have my predetermi­ned sunrise and sunset locations and, once I have these, I will look to group other sites close by that can make the most of the soft morning light or the late-afternoon sun.

When planning your route be realistic. Don’t cram in so many locations into one period that you only have a few minutes to shoot; it’s better to shoot one place really well than lots of places averagely, so give yourself enough time to explore the light, angles and compositio­ns at your chosen locations.

Rainy day plan

It’s not often in the photograph­y world that you will hear the words ‘rain’ and ‘good’ in the same sentence. With cities, however, there are still plenty of good shooting locations for those rainy days, such as markets, local attraction­s and museums.

If you are prepared to get a little wet then you can make some really powerful images when it’s raining, especially at night with the city lights reflecting in the rainwater. This can make for striking shots with a dreamy, mysterious feel.

Useful tools

I will use a range of outlets to research and

It’s better to shoot one place really well than lots of places averagely, so give yourself enough time to explore the light, angles and compositio­ns

plan my shoot. In recent years, Google Earth has been my greatest tool in planning any city trip.

You can ‘virtually’ fly around the city looking for rooftop views or even eye up the hotel or Airbnb with the best views. The great thing about Google Earth is that you can, to some degree, compose your shot before you even arrive on location!

TELL A STORY

A photo essay, or photo story, is common practice in travel photograph­y and you will no doubt have seen some great features in glossy magazines (as well as N-photo, of course) where the images of a location can really get under your skin. The aim of the photograph­er is to produce a single or set of images that connects the viewer to a certain place in time.

Setting yourself the goal of shooting a photo essay is great practice for achieving a set of strong, well-thought-out and cohesive pictures.

Be original

When planning your photo story try to be as original as possible. The aim is to produce fresh content that attracts and will engage viewers.

This is easier said than done, but that’s the challenge; to create something unique that stands alone from the millions of other photos of the location that can be seen anywhere at any time.

Have a narrative

Stories need to have a clearly defined beginning, middle and end, and this is true for photo essays. If your aim is to produce a chronologi­cal series of images, it is much easier to define these junctures.

If you want to tell a more personal or compact story, you have some wiggle room to experiment with, but it is still good practice to have a narrative structure to lead your viewers in and out of the story. Whichever option you choose, a clear and

The goal of shooting a photo essay is great practice for achieving a set of strong, well-thought-out and cohesive pictures

decisive conclusion is important to the impact the story has. Nobody likes to be left hanging…

Variety is the spice

You don’t want people to get bored, so you need to try and include a variety of different subjects to keep viewers’ imaginatio­n going. A set of very similar images won’t achieve this. You need to pay attention to the details that will provide not just the variety, but the emotion in your images as well. Be sure to experiment with shooting landscapes, portraits, action, detail and even abstract images to avoid the danger of repetition.

Layout

The layout of the images that make up your story is an important factor in good photo storytelli­ng. When you are shooting, try and think where a certain image might fit in the context of the story and what might be missing from other areas that you will need to concentrat­e on.

Planning a final layout is often one of the most difficult factors of a good photo essay, as its means you can’t just take nice, pretty pictures. Instead, they will need some context to your overall story. A good layout allows the viewer to process each image on its independen­t merits then connect them into a clear and precise storyline. The first and last images

in any series are the most important as they have to be strong enough to attract the viewer and leave them with a clear memory of your photo essay.

Add emotion

All great stories contain a sense of emotion and your photo essay is no different. No matter how technicall­y strong each image is this isn’t always enough, as they must also have a clear direction.

Another good tip for adding emotion and flow to your story is colour management. When editing your images try to keep the same tones, saturation and general edit throughout. If you can incorporat­e similar tones when shooting even better, but this just isn’t always possible.

GET CREATIVE

Cities offer a multitude of ways a photograph­er can be creative, so don’t be afraid to experiment to find what works; it’s not as though you can’t just delete anything that really didn’t pay off…

Adding that spark of creativity to your work is a great way to make your images stand out. We have all seen the classic view of the Eiffel Tower or

Brooklyn Bridge, so adding a fresh take to these – and other landmarks – will draw people’s interest.

Play with angles

Make sure that you try to experiment with angles. This could mean getting down on the ground or jumping on a bench or small wall to get a slightly different perspectiv­e. It could be looking up at those skyscraper­s or tilting your camera to add another dynamic to your photograph.

Have a play around and you might be surprised at what you can achieve once you break the mould of shooting just around eye level.

Scenes can be overlooked and you may even have walked past them. Be aware of your surroundin­gs and be prepared for the unexpected

Find the fun

Cities are full of quirky elements from performanc­e art to murals. We all like a laugh, so try to include funny interactio­ns in your images. This could be a crowd reaction to an event or the clever placement of features that capture unexpected results.

These scenes can be easily overlooked and you may even have walked past them many times before. Make sure you don’t miss these by always looking around – be aware of your surroundin­gs and be prepared for the unexpected.

Negative space

Playing with negative space when shooting in cities can inject a really effective and creative angle into your images and is easily achieved. Think of your main subject as positive space, while negative space is the area around your subject. The negative space should generally add context to the subject without detracting attention from it.

Too busy a negative area and the image loses its impact, with too many areas of the frame competing for the viewers’ attention. Having a generous area of negative space can add mystique and allows the viewer to make up the story.

Shoot at night

Don’t make the mistake of calling it a day after sunset, as this can be when the cities truly erupt with life and vibrance. Lights come on and people are on the street, making it a great time to shoot.

You can easily visit the same street in the day and night and find a completely different scene. Tokyo is a good example of this. In the daytime the

busy and fairly monotone streets come alive with colour after dark, when the thousands of neon lights come out to play.

STREET PHOTOGRAPH­Y

Any photograph­ic trip to a city is almost certainly going to contain some elements of street photograph­y. It is a common misconcept­ion that street photograph­y is easy and it’s enough to simply capture a few fleeting street life images to have it classed as street photograph­y. I’m here to tell you that this just isn’t true!

Good street photograph­y is often incredibly well thought out and perfectly executed by the photograph­er who approaches the scene in a very unique manner. You need to be present, obviously, but at the same time you need to be invisible to not interfere with the scene in any way. On top of this, photograph­ers must learn to use their surroundin­gs to shoot everyday activities in a profound way.

Both of these factors coming together is hard enough before you even consider all the unknown factors that could come in to play.

Time it right

No one can predict the future but it’s helpful to at least try, especially when it comes to street photograph­y… This is where timing comes in to play. I can often find a really fantastic backdrop, but all the elements required to make a nice image a great image just haven’t arrived on the scene.

I may spend anywhere from a few minutes to an hour – possibly more – at a spot waiting and trying to tie in all the elements I require for exactly the right areas of the frame. Sometimes this can be just one person or action, but at other times it may be a combinatio­n of two or more factors, making the timing of my shot even more crucial.

Often this doesn’t pay off for me, but if I can

I may return a second – or third – time to try again. However, even then there are no guarantees; that’s just the nature of photograph­y and it’s especially the nature of street photograph­y. What matters is that you try and that you’re patient.

Get closer

There is a tendency, when you start shooting street photograph­y, to stand back and zoom in, but this technique very seldom works as there is usually a clear separation between the viewer and the action, which can detach the viewer from the scene.

It’s important to get close and bring the action to the forefront of your image. Some of the best street photograph­s ever taken were only a matter of feet from the action or subject. The aim of good street photograph­y is to have the viewer transporte­d into the frame with the feeling of being

The first time you stick a camera in a stranger’s face can be more than a little unnerving. There is a perceived risk of people being angry…

surrounded by the scene, and this is only really achieved by getting in close and getting the shot.

Don’t be shy!

Street photograph­y requires a certain level of confidence… The first time you stick a camera in a stranger’s face can be more than a little unnerving. There is a perceived risk of people being angry or even aggressive towards you – despite this very rarely being the case. But there are a couple of techniques that can ease you into things.

The first is to ‘shoot from the hip’, and the flip-up screens that the many Nikon cameras have makes shooting from the hip a lot easier than in the past. However it’s still not the ideal method, as it’s hard to compose and focus. Providing you feel comfortabl­e, you should always raise the camera to your eye.

The second method is to simply travel light. The reason so many street photograph­ers prefer to use more compact gear – such as a 35mm lens – is the lack of attention they attract, which allows them to be less conspicuou­s and appear less threatenin­g.

 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Jordan Banks is a pro landscape and travel photograph­er who produces images for a wide variety of commercial and editorial clients, as well as running travel workshops worldwide. For more informatio­n: www.jordanbank­sphoto.com
Jordan Banks is a pro landscape and travel photograph­er who produces images for a wide variety of commercial and editorial clients, as well as running travel workshops worldwide. For more informatio­n: www.jordanbank­sphoto.com
 ??  ?? Right: Entrance to the Guggenheim museum in NYC. Shot on a tripod to allow for the slow shutter speed.
Right: Entrance to the Guggenheim museum in NYC. Shot on a tripod to allow for the slow shutter speed.
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? The ‘holy trinity’ of zoom lenses is ideal for city photograph­y. In these shots of Seattle: the city centre (above) was shot with a 16-35mm f/4 wide-angle zoom at 16mm; Pike Place Market (left) with a 24-70mm f/2.8 standard zoom at 38mm; and the Space Needle (far left) with a 70-200mm f/2.8 telephoto zoom at 200mm.
The ‘holy trinity’ of zoom lenses is ideal for city photograph­y. In these shots of Seattle: the city centre (above) was shot with a 16-35mm f/4 wide-angle zoom at 16mm; Pike Place Market (left) with a 24-70mm f/2.8 standard zoom at 38mm; and the Space Needle (far left) with a 70-200mm f/2.8 telephoto zoom at 200mm.
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? www.digitalcam­eraworld.com
www.digitalcam­eraworld.com
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Right: Jordan’s National Geographic Traveller award-winning image just goes to show that a little bit of research can go a very long way. Top left: View of Seattle from Kerry Park. Jordan used Google Earth to confirm location for his shoot. Below left: This image depicts the teamlab Borderless exhibition in Tokyo and was shot on a very wet day.
Right: Jordan’s National Geographic Traveller award-winning image just goes to show that a little bit of research can go a very long way. Top left: View of Seattle from Kerry Park. Jordan used Google Earth to confirm location for his shoot. Below left: This image depicts the teamlab Borderless exhibition in Tokyo and was shot on a very wet day.
 ??  ?? Above: View of Manhattan from New Jersey. Jordan explains that he included the lady on her phone to give some perspectiv­e to the image.
Above: View of Manhattan from New Jersey. Jordan explains that he included the lady on her phone to give some perspectiv­e to the image.
 ??  ?? Top: Boys playing in Panama City. Keeping your camera to hand at all times on a shoot can help you capture unique fleeting moments like this.
Top: Boys playing in Panama City. Keeping your camera to hand at all times on a shoot can help you capture unique fleeting moments like this.
 ??  ?? Above: A woman walks through the Empty Skies Memorial in New Jersey. Jordan uses the negative space here to tell a story but still leave room for the viewer to fill in the blanks.
Above: A woman walks through the Empty Skies Memorial in New Jersey. Jordan uses the negative space here to tell a story but still leave room for the viewer to fill in the blanks.
 ??  ?? Above: Manhattan Bridge mirrored in a window. Playing with reflection­s can help add more to your frame.
Above: Manhattan Bridge mirrored in a window. Playing with reflection­s can help add more to your frame.
 ??  ?? Top: Manhattan skyline reflecting in a window with a carousel. Not being tied to convention­s will help you create imagery that can’t be found anywhere else. Above left: Jordan spotted this unusual entrance to a shopping mall in Tokyo and just had to photograph it. It’s not hard to see why, with the fun reflection­s and angles bouncing around playfully.
Top: Manhattan skyline reflecting in a window with a carousel. Not being tied to convention­s will help you create imagery that can’t be found anywhere else. Above left: Jordan spotted this unusual entrance to a shopping mall in Tokyo and just had to photograph it. It’s not hard to see why, with the fun reflection­s and angles bouncing around playfully.
 ??  ?? Above left: A young lady on a BMX takes in the Manhattan skyline from Brooklyn. Above: Confidence is key in street photograph­y. Jordan came across this smartly dressed gent and asked if he could take a few portraits. Above right: An off-the-cuff moment in Valparaíso, Chile. Timing was crucial, and Jordan was in the right place at the right time. Far right: In order to create a compelling photograph, Jordan waited patiently for the right subject to pass beneath the mural.
Above left: A young lady on a BMX takes in the Manhattan skyline from Brooklyn. Above: Confidence is key in street photograph­y. Jordan came across this smartly dressed gent and asked if he could take a few portraits. Above right: An off-the-cuff moment in Valparaíso, Chile. Timing was crucial, and Jordan was in the right place at the right time. Far right: In order to create a compelling photograph, Jordan waited patiently for the right subject to pass beneath the mural.
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia