NPhoto

Top tips: Capture fluorescin­g flowers

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Get a UV flashlight

The Convoy S2+ UV LED flashlight used here has a concentrat­ed UV beam, so keep it away from eyes, even with your safety glasses on. This 365nm torch is mostly used by mineral-lovers seeking out rocks and gems or testing minerals at shows. But it’s also ideal for capturing fluorescen­ce in flower photograph­y.

Attach a ZWB2 filter

This little circle of glass behaves as a longwave bandpass filter, cutting out some of the light spectrum outside the UV range. By doing so we prevent visible light from overpoweri­ng the weak UV reflectanc­e in flowers. You can tape it to the front of the torch or unscrew the head and fit it inside.

Set an exposure

The correct exposure will depend on the strength of the torch and the amount of UV reflectanc­e, so it may take some tweaking to get right. As a starting point, set the camera to Manual mode with a shutter speed of 15 secs, aperture f/8 and ISO100 (or some variation of this, like f/11, 30 secs).

Focus then lock

When shooting in low light like this the camera’s autofocus has a tendency to hunt around for the point of focus, so it’s best to turn on a light (or if outside, shine a normal torch light on your subject), then pre-focus on the plant. Once locked on, switch to manual focus to keep it in place.

Start light painting

After starting your long exposure, shine the torch over the flowers. We can concentrat­e the beam in different areas of the compositio­n to build up the lighting on both the subject and surroundin­g plants. Take note of which areas fluoresce the strongest and arrange the flowers to include these parts in the frame.

Sculpt with the light

Experiment with the angles of the torch, as a side-on light will help to reveal the texture and detail in the flowers, while plunging other parts into shadow. By shining the light at the front, back and sides of the subject for varying lengths of time you can mimic a two-, three- or four-light setup.

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