Ask Matthew...
Our resident Nikon expert Matthew Richards answers your questions and solves your problems. If you have a Nikon-related question, email it to mail@nphotomag.com
QIs the DX crop mode of my Z 7II only intended for use with DX format lenses?
Hazel Sullivan
AI’m a big fan of the DX crop mode, which is one of the ‘Choose image Area’ options in the Z 7II’S Photo Shooting Menu. It’s useful when shooting with DX (APS-C format) lenses, designed for cameras with a smaller image sensor, but much more besides. You often don’t need the mighty 45-megapixel resolution of the Z 7II, whereas the DX option delivers more manageable 19.5-megapixel images.
The DX crop mode also gives you a 1.5x magnification in ‘effective’ focal length, for example boosting the range of a 70-200mm lens to 105-300mm, extending your telephoto reach with no loss of aperture rating, unlike when using a teleconverter. It also adds to the versatility of prime lenses, for example giving you a range of 24mm, 36mm, 50mm and 75mm focal lengths from a pair of 24mm and 50mm primes.
QMy D3x keeps losing the date and time settings whenever I switch it off. What’s the likely cause and can it be fixed?
Mike Jennings
AThe Nikon D3-series cameras have an internal lithium battery (CR1616) that powers the clock, and lasts about four years. Once flat, the ‘Clock’ icon blinks while the exposure meter is active. You’ll need to remove the main EN-EL4A battery and locate the clock battery chamber, in the roof of the main battery compartment. To open the clock battery chamber, slide the cover towards the front of the main battery compartment, then remove the old clock battery.
Insert a new CR1616 lithium battery so that the positive side (marked with ‘+’) is visible. Slide the cover towards the back of the main battery compartment until it clicks into place. Reinsert the EN-EL4A and set the camera to the current date and time. Until you’ve set the date and time, the ‘Clock’ icon will flash in the top-panel display.
QAfter triple heart bypass surgery, I’m looking to downsize my DSLR kit, for when I can get out shooting again. How do you rate the Z 7II compared with the D810?
Dave Merrill
AI wish you a full and speedy recovery. Even in the best of health, a DSLR and trinity f/2.8 zooms plus accessories is a weighty proposition. My go-to is now a Z 7II, with which I’m over
the moon and loving the weightsaving. The Z 70-200mm is big, but lightweight lenses that are top for landscape and general photography include the Z 24-70mm f/4 S and Z 14-30mm f/4 S. Unusually for such an ultra-wide zoom, the latter features a filter attachment thread, ideal for landscapes. The Z 24-200mm f/4-6.3 VR is another lightweight lens that’s versatile and delivers ace image quality for a superzoom, making it a great lens for general shooting, without carrying lots of lenses.
QI’m finding my D7200, 70-200mm f/2.8 and prized 500mm prime a bit cumbersome for wildlife photography. Does Nikon plan to launch a replacement for the P1000?
Alison Gaunt
AAs far as I know, Nikon has no imminent plans to release a replacement for the Coolpix P1000 and, even if they did, you might find the image quality and all-round performance for wildlife photography a bit disappointing compared with your current DSLR kit.
If you’re in the market for a versatile but lightweight zoom to use instead of the 70-200mm f/2.8, I’d suggest the Sigma 100-400mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary or the Tamron 100-400mm f/4.5-6.3 Di VC USD, in that order, both of which cost around £699/$799. There’s also the oftenoverlooked constant-aperture Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f/4g ED VR, but the zoom range is more limited and it’s a bit pricier at £1299/$1397.