Get set up for shutter blending

SHOOT LONG EXPOSURES WHILE VARYING SHUTTER SPEEDS OVER A RANGE OF FRAMES

Use a tripod

You’ll need a tripod for long exposures to keep the camera still while blurring the movement of the water. A tripod that lets you expand the legs outwards to allow you to get low to the ground can be very useful when photographing waterfalls, as it lets you frame the water closer to the lens.

Moving parts

The shutter speed blending technique is ideal in scenes like this when the water is moving at different speeds in different parts of the frame, as it allows us to use a very slow speed of 20 seconds to blur the slower moving water in the river, and a faster speed of a second for crisper streaks in the waterfalls.

Strong ND filter

A strong ND filter stems the flow of light into the lens, allowing you to shoot seconds-long exposures in bright daylight. Here we used a 6-stop ND filter, along with a polarizer (which also cuts out about a stop of light), enabling a max exposure length of about 20 seconds at ISO100, aperture f/16.

Camera settings

Set up your camera to shoot in Manual mode with Auto ISO. It’s best to keep the aperture constant throughout – a narrow aperture like f/16 will ensure maximum depth of field. Adjust the shutter speed as you take your shots, and allow the camera to adjust the ISO to compensate.

Vary shutter speeds

Try changing your shutter speed and assess how it blurs the water. For faster speeds you may want to remove the filter and capture frames without it (especially if it makes a vignette in the corners of the frame). For contrasty scenes like this you may also want to capture a darker frame for the sky.

Self-timer or remote

A remote release is essential for long exposures as it lets you trigger the shutter without touching the camera. Alternatively, set up a two-second timer or delay mode so that you have time to remove your hands before the shutter fires. If you’re using a DSLR, engage Live View to prevent mirror shake too.