My tail­gate rat­tle just won’t shutup

NT News - Motoring - - CARS GUIDE -

Q: Af­ter rain or a car wash my 2012 Ford Ter­ri­tory has con­den­sa­tion on the in­side of the front wind­screen and I can find no wa­ter or leak­age in the car. Have you had any win­dow seal re­ports or any­thing of this na­ture? The tail­gate also rattles and de­spite the best ef­forts of the dealer it just comes back again. Has any­one else men­tioned this? Vicki, e-mail. A: Are you in the car when the con­den­sa­tion forms? If so that’s prob­a­bly the rea­son. It’s a re­sult of the hu­mid­ity in­side the car and it’s quite com­mon. Run­ning the air­con­di­tioner will dry the air and re­move the con­den­sa­tion quite quickly. As for the rat­tling tail­gate, per­sist with the dealer in get­ting it fixed. It re­ally is a mat­ter of track­ing down the source of the rat­tle and di­rectly ad­dress­ing that. The dealer clearly hasn’t yet found the cause.

Q: I’ve no­ticed my new 2013 Jeep Grand Chero­kee has rust on the un­der­body, par­tic­u­larly parts of the drive­shafts and brakes, etc. The dealer says it’s noth­ing to worry about, it’s just sur­face rust, and all Jeeps have it. I checked an­other un­sold car on their show­room floor and it is the same. Is this nor­mal for a $60,000-plus car, or am I wor­ry­ing too much? Bob Smith, e-mail. A: Jeeps seem to have suf­fered from rusty un­der­bod­ies, even right back to the first ones that came here in the 1990s. It’s a crook look, and would bother me, but as long as the un­der­body it­self isn’t rusty, you should be OK. If you wanted you could spray it with some rust pre­ven­ta­tive.

Q: In the last few months, my wife’s 2008 Holden Viva au­to­matic has be­gun stalling while in drive idling at traf­fic lights. It has oc­curred a few times in a row within a few min­utes, but at times it might go a week or so with­out stalling. Once or twice it has also been hap­pen­ing while slow­ing down to make a turn at a round­about. I have no­ticed that it has been idling around 850-875 rpm in drive and idling very rough at times usu­ally when it might hap­pen. What can I do to fix this on­go­ing and very danger­ous prob­lem? Harry La­gos, e-mail. A: It could be a vac­uum leak, like a split vac­uum hose or such like that’s caus­ing the idle mix­ture to be too lean. It could also be a sen­sor that’s gone on the blink and send­ing the wrong signals to the com­puter. You re­ally need to have a me­chanic check it.

Q: Af­ter read­ing re­cent com­plaints in your col­umn about oil con­sump­tion of the Com­modore V6 I checked the oil level in my Se­ries II Com­modore SV6 and I was stunned to find it didn’t reg­is­ter on the dip­stick at all. There has never been any in­di­ca­tion, warn­ing lights etc. to sug­gest there might have been a prob­lem. It took 3.5 litres of oil to re­turn it to the cor­rect level. It has done just less than 28,000km and it was 15,000km since its last ser­vice. When I re­ported the high us­age at the 30,000km ser­vice the dealer ad­vised that it met Holden’s spec and that I had noth­ing to worry about as the engine still had ap­prox. four litres of oil left. I protested that the oil us­age was not cor­rect and it should be fixed. It was then that they ad­vised that Holden was aware of the prob­lem and that it was a breath­ing is­sue with the mo­tor, oil was be­ing sucked from the sump and blown out the ex­haust. They said Holden was work­ing on the prob­lem and a fix was due later this year. Am I be­ing fed a line or are you aware that Holden is work­ing on the prob­lem? Graeme Crook, e-mail. A: Holden has told us that the oil con­sump­tion of your car ap­pears not to be ‘‘within nor­mal op­er­at­ing bound­aries for engine oil con­sump­tion and sounds quite con­cern­ing.’’ The com­pany is keen to re­solve this is­sue with you, but needs your de­tails to be able to make con­tact. If you would like to have your car

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