Essential tools for PC building

SOME ARE NO-BRAINERS, WHILE OTHERS YOU’LL BE GLAD TO HAVE ON HAND WHEN TROUBLE STRIKES.

You can build a PC with just a screwdriver or two on hand, but you’ll have an easier time of it if you have all the essentials on hand. That includes tools to get you out of sticky spots, which always occur when you assume they won’t. Keep these 10 items on hand for builds and they’ll keep your assembly woes to a minimum.

We’ve divided the list into the absolute essentials (for the minimalists out there) as well as our recommended additions for a well-rounded kit. But really, there’s no need to scrimp. All of these tools are very affordable.

BARE ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR PC BUILDING Screwdriver (Phillips #2)

Nearly all screws in a computer case require this cross-head screwdriver. Any Phillips #2 screwdriver will do—be it the plain, trusty Craftsman ( go.pcworld.com/cfmn) in your toolbox, the fancier ratcheting type ( go. pcworld.com/rcht) with swappable bits, or kits with a full array of bits that include a PH2 head.

We highly recommend getting a magnetic screwdriver or buying a magnetizer ( go. pcworld.com/wiha) to convert your existing tools. You can get a magnetic screwdriver kit with interchangeable bits ( go.pcworld.com/ oria) for quite cheap, usually around $15. Regardless of what you choose, this purchase will save you the time and hassle of fussing with screws that refuse to stay put as you attach them and/or that fall into hard-to-reach places.

If you have hand injuries or tendinitis, look into ratcheting screwdrivers to reduce fatigue. For more torque, get a screwdriver with a

fatter handle.

Screwdriver (Phillips #1)

Adding an M.2 SSD to your build or laptop? You’ll need a Phillips #1 screwdriver ( go. pcworld.com/phn1), as a Phillips #2 will be too large for the screw drive (the indentations on the head of the screw, used to turn it).

Since M.2 SSD mounting screws are delicate, you won’t need much torque to get them

in or out, and a slender or small screwdriver works fine. You should get a magnetized one, though, as screws that take a Phillips #1 tend to be small and easy to lose track of.

For a build without any M.2 SSDS, you can get away with just a Phillips

#2, but we’ve found that it never hurts to have a Phillips

#1 on hand.

Screw tray

You should put screws in some kind of container as you work—a shallow dish or bowl, a tray, even a cup. (Using more than one is even better, as you can keep track of different screw types more easily.) Placing everything loose onto a table usually results in missing screws, while if you put them in clothing pockets, you run the risk of losing screws as you move around.

For a more tidy solution, use a clear pill case ( go. pcworld.com/clpl) or a bead organizer ( go.pcworld.com/ bead) to hold and store screws. They range from $2 to $7 in price, take little space, and let you see everything at a glance. If you have a fixed work area, you can instead opt for a larger hardware organizer ( go.pcworld. com/hdor), which will have multiple small drawers. Leave one or two compartments free for dumping in screws as you build.

You can also buy a magnetic tray ( go. pcworld.com/mtry) or a magnetic mat ( go. pcworld.com/mgmt) if you’re concerned about knocking items around on a work surface (or if you have a standard-issue cat who likes to push items off tables). These run between $6 to $10.

Hex nut driver

If not tightened down sufficiently, motherboard standoffs can come loose as you try to loosen the screws holding the mainboard in place. The screw remains tight within the standoff, however—leaving you in purgatory until you figure out how to keep the standoff still as you remove the screw. In fact, further down this list are tools to help fix that common problem.

But if you own a hex nut driver in the right size, you can avoid that waste of time and source of irritation. Before you mount the motherboard, slip it over the standoffs and ensure that each one is firmly attached to the case. No need to overtighten—just a bit past when the standoff first hits the metal of the case. Too much and you risk stripping the screw threads on the standoffs.

Think a spinning standoff will never happen to you? Readjustments can come up during building. Also, later maintenance on your system may require it. Believe us, nothing stokes deep rage like when a standoff gets stuck as you try to remove a mobo for an RMA return.

Some cases come with an accessory—a small metal piece compatible with a Phillips #2 screwdriver—that fulfills this same role, but not all do. You may also have a bit like this in a screwdriver kit you already own or will be buying (look for the M5 size).

If neither condition applies to your case, purchase a standalone 5mm hex nut driver ( go.pcworld. com/5hex). It will work with the two most common sizes of standoffs, though the smaller size will be a tad loose. (For a perfect fit, also

purchase a 3⁄ -inch hex 16 nut driver [ go.pcworld. com/3hex].) You may want to grab these regardless of what you already own, as the larger grip on a standalone hex nut driver makes tightening or loosening the standoff easier.

Already have a small adjustable wrench in your toolbox? That works too, though it’s more awkward to maneuver than a hex nut driver.

Flashlight or headlamp

Normal lighting can create shadows that reduce what you can see while working in a case, especially if it’s a dark chassis. A good flashlight lets you see where stray screws rolled, the labels on front panel pins, and where that one last screw hole on the mobo is. You can get an affordable tactical flashlight ( go.pcworld.com/tcfl) starting at about $15.

For the ultimate in practicality, a headlamp makes working in dark, tight spots of your case even easier—since it’s strapped to your forehead, you can keep working without interruption. You can get a reliable one for just a bit more than a flashlight, with this popular model coming in at $20 ( go. pcworld.com/ptzl).

ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDED TOOLS FOR PC BUILDING Adjustable wrench

Every now and then, the screw holding your motherboard in place won’t come loose. Instead, the standoff underneath the mobo does, resulting in the screw and standoff spinning around as an unremovable unit. This is a more common occurrence during repairs or upgrades, but it can also happen during a build when you’re undoing a screwup.

To fix this, you need to keep the standoff from moving while you loosen the screw—a job neatly filled by a small adjustable wrench ( go.pcworld.com/6wrn; also known colloquially as a crescent wrench), which you can buy for under $15. Slide it between the motherboard and the case, then clamp it

down on the standoff. Hold that pesky standoff in place to take out the screw. You can also use an adjustable wrench to tighten standoffs before you install a motherboard, if you don’t have a hex nut driver on hand.

For dealing with loose standoffs, get an adjustable wrench with a slender head, like these 4-inch ( go.pcworld.com/4imd) and 6-inch ( go.pcworld.com/6imd) Channellock models. (For a splurge version, go for this pocket-size option [ go.pcworld.com/pkop] with an ultraslim head.) Don’t want to spend that much? You can get away with this inexpensive 6-inch Stanley wrench ( go. pcworld.com/6stn) as a preventative measure. Use it to ensure that the standoffs are tightened down properly before installing a motherboard.

An adjustable wrench is ideal since it leaves no marks on a standoff after extraction, but every situation with a spinning standoff leaves a different amount of room to work in. If you can’t maneuver one into position, try the next item on this list: a hemostat.

Hemostat

When you’re faced with a hard-to-reach standoff trapped under a motherboard, a hemostat ( go.pcworld.com/hemo) can help you out of that jam. These locking forceps are slender and needle-nosed—ideal for getting under the motherboard when there’s limited room. You can sometimes even clamp onto the standoff’s screw threads poking out the back of the motherboard tray. Adding one to your lineup won’t cost much, either, as it’ll run about $5.

Using a hemostat is straightforward: Get the jaws around the standoff, and then squeeze the handles to lock it. (Note: Most hemostats have teeth that can scratch up your standoff’s finish. To avoid this unwanted outcome, wedge part of a rubber band between it and the standoff whenever possible.)

As a reminder, you’ll barely ever need this

tool if you make sure your case’s standoff screws are firmly seated before you install a motherboard. Use a hex nut driver or an adjustable wrench to tighten them just a bit past when the standoff first bottoms out. (Don’t go too crazy: Overtightening can create its own problems—that is, stripped screw threads.)

A hemostat also comes in handy if you opt for rubber “screws” ( go. pcworld.com/rbsc) for mounting case fans. Just clamp onto one end to maintain your grip while tugging it through the fan.

Flathead screwdriver

You can’t always predict when a case will sport a front panel held in place by stubborn plastic clips—much less ones located in hard-toreach places. A flathead screwdriver can help you push them in to release. A standard driver with a longer neck ( go.pcworld.com/ lnek) is ideal, since it will fit into tight spots more easily. For size, a 1⁄ - or 3⁄ -inch head 4 8 and an 8-inch neck should work just fine.

Note that these screwdrivers can dent and scratch the plastic if you apply them directly. You can put a bit of protective material (a bit of rubber band or a cotton

ball) between the screwdriver head and the plastic before levering away.

Rubber bands

Small rubber bands ( go.pcworld.com/b465) can protect paint from the rough teeth on pliers and hemostats, serve as a poor person’s substitute for Velcro ties, and add extra grip in tight situations (for instance, if you need more traction on a slightly stripped screw head). In a pinch, a couple of these can make it easier to slide side panels off cases if you have slippery hands. (Upgrade version for dealing with side panels: A rubber jar opener [ go.pcworld.com/jrop] is easier for big hands to hold in place.)

Vise grip

Stripped a screw head? You can extract the screw from your build by using a vise grip if a hemostat doesn’t generate enough torque. Clamp the jaws of these locking pliers around the screw head, and then start turning. (Be mindful of what else is in the vicinity, as these pliers are a bit bulky.) You can usually pick up a 6-inch vise grip for under $15 ( go.pcworld.com/6vgp).

You can use a vise grip, as you do a hemostat, to help install rubber “screws” ( go. pcworld.com/rubs) for mounting case fans. Lock onto one end to maintain your grip while yanking it through the fan.

Phillips #2 screwdrivers in various forms. We recommended getting a magnetized version (or magnetizing a standard one).

You can use whatever container you have as a screw tray, or upgrade by purchasing a magnetized tray. (The latter provides some protection against cats and their mischievous tendencies.)

Installing an M.2 drive? You’ll need a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

A hex nut driver bears out the adage “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

A headlamp requires less juggling to use than a flashlight.

A crescent wrench can fill a dual role in your toolbox: Use it to tighten the standoffs prior to motherboard installation or to help with freeing a standoff that’s spinning loose under a mobo.

A hemostat clamped onto the back of a motherboard standoff. To replicate this, screw the loose standoff back into the case so you have as many threads as possible to grip.

A slotted screwdriver can help you push in stubborn plastic clips.

Eat out a lot? You probably already have tons of these in your kitchen’s junk drawer in various sizes.

A vise grip can help with screw extraction when a screw head is stripped.