Q beauty: VITAMIN C

Considered one of the most versatile antioxidants in modern dermatology, Vitamin C is touted as skincare's brilliant all-rounder. Assisting in the treatment and management of fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, surface texture and skin tone, it serves as an effective line of defence against harmful reactive oxidative species (ROS) caused by lifestyle and environmental factors.

Unlike plants and most animals, Vitamin C cannot be synthesised by the human body due to the absence of an enzyme called L-gulono-gamma-lactone oxidase. While we are able to obtain supplementation from our food and skincare, not all Vitamin C derivatives are created equal which makes the ingredient notoriously hard for consumers to navigate.

On a mission to educate and empower consumers with science and knowledge, Australian GP and co-founder of Evidence Skincare (ESK), Dr. Ginni Mansberg, recommends L-Ascorbic Acid as the only evidence-based form of topical Vitamin C shown in studies to reverse the signs of premature ageing.

“Although some manufacturers will bond Vitamin C to other chemicals such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate to improve its stability and absorption, L-Ascorbic Acid is the only reliable form of Vitamin C on the market with strong, documented evidence supporting its anti-ageing benefits,” said Dr. Ginni.

Containing 10 percent L-Ascorbic Acid, a concentration which balances strong evidence for high skin tolerance and product stability, the Reverse C Serum and C Serum Lite by Evidence Skincare (ESK) is formulated to combat UVinduced free radicals, improve collagen synthesis, reduce hyperpigmentation, and protect against sun damage.

“As a highly unstable molecule, L-Ascorbic Acid must be formulated at a pH of 3.5 or less to penetrate the skin’s waterproof barrier and remain stable. “It must also be packaged in an opaque, airless bottle to ensure its long-term effectiveness and protect from oxidisation,” said Dr. Ginni.

Formulated to meet these particular requirements, the Reverse C Serum combines 1% Tocopherol (Vitamin E) which evidence suggests increases the effectiveness of L-Ascorbic Acid. C Serum Lite, an option ideal for oiler skin types, is formulated in an anhydrous base to provide optimal skin penetration without the added hydration.

“Vitamin C is a must-have ingredient for all age groups,” said Dr. Ginni. “It protects your skin from free radicals created by excess exposure to the sun, cigarette smoking, and other environmental pollutants. “It also combats inflammation and other cellular processes that accelerate ageing in the skin.”

Ideal for morning use, the Reverse C Serum ($95 RRP) and C Serum Lite ($90 RRP) is manufactured in Australia and available globally at www.eskcare.com