Where to stay
Hoshinoya
Escape the crowds by staying at Hoshinoya (hoshinoyakyoto.jp) in Arashiyama, in Kyoto’s northwest, which is famous for its spectacular bamboo forest. As if in a fairytale, you reach this luxurious traditional ryokan (inn) by boat, gliding past blossomcovered mountains. All rooms face the Katsura River, with sliding paper screens that open to reveal cherry blossoms you can almost touch. At night, the gardens are softly lit for strolling. Be sure to take your matcha tea in the floating tearoom, a wooden platform high above the trees that makes you feel as if you’re suspended on sakura clouds.
The Ritz-Carlton
For such a storied city, Kyoto has surprisingly few international luxury hotels. But the recently opened Ritz-Carlton (ritzcarlton. com), which bills itself as an urban resort, has started a trend and names such as Westin and Aman are also putting down roots. Right on the Kamogawa River, The Ritz-Carlton is in the middle of the cherry blossom action but is blissfully peaceful. The best room is the traditional Garden Terrace Suite Tatami with private Zen gardens and sweeping views over the river and mountains. All rooms overlook the river, which is one of Kyoto’s favourite spots for an evening walk under the blossoms.
Mume
This boutique hotel, perfectly located in the middle of Gion, has seven rooms and offers service and attention to detail that bring many repeat visitors. The rooms at Mume (hotelmume.com) are Western style but decorated with Japanese antiques. The Flower guestroom – ideal in spring – has a balcony fronting the Shirakawa River and a bed enclosed within bamboo screens.
Hotel Anteroom
The freshly renovated Anteroom (hotel-anteroom.com) is a unique blend of hotel, residence and art space. The rooms have a minimalist retro feel with Mid-century Modern furniture. There are no famous views but the Terrace Twin Rooms have a private outdoor terrace with loads of natural light. A cool whisky bar attracts Kyoto’s late-night art cognoscenti. Just out of the busy tourist area, the hotel is minutes from Tōji Temple’s spacious cherry blossom garden and iconic pagoda, a symbol of Kyoto.