From the Editor
Our writers are not armchair travellers. Rest assured any assistance we accept from the travel industry in the course of preparing our stories does not compromise the integrity of our coverage. HOW DO you really get a feel for a city? You visit its neighbourhoods. You see how the locals eat and drink and what they do to wind down. So in this issue, we’re taking you to vibrant districts in some of the world’s most visited cities so that you, too, can have that genuine local experience.
There was much debate in our office about whether we should include Sydney or Melbourne. We were swayed by three of our writers, who all nominated the very cool Victorian suburb of Footscray (you can read their takes on page 80).
I’m going to give Sydney a look-in here. The Inner West suburb of Balmain – where I’m lucky enough to live – isn’t as edgy as Footscray but it has a harbourside location and a village feel. Here’s my hit list: Start the day with a walk through Mort Bay Park and around to Ballast Point, an old fuel depot and now a sensitively designed park with spectacular views of Sydney Harbour. Swing down Darling Street and join the queue at Bertoni for a coffee. Indulge in a croque madame at the very charming Cafe d’Yvoire in Balmain East – and then just try to resist one of David’s exquisite pastries. Head back up to the centre of the village. Browse for Tom Dixon homewares at Stem and handcrafted jewellery at Punch Gallery (smile sweetly and Helen will offer you a marshmallow). Maplestore has cool fashion for everyone. Women will love the crowded racks in Strelitzia and, 10 minutes up the hill, the smart edit at DuckeggBlue. Grab a coffee from Cafe Berlin and lie in the sunshine in Gladstone Park. (Wander over to the mural next to the bowling club and you might be able to spot me, circa 2010.) Sit at Wilhelmina’s on Darling Street and enjoy a glass of grüner veltliner. Head to One Ford Street if you feel like wonderful housemade pasta. Or try Phamous Kitchen if you’re in the mood for a green papaya salad. End your day on the verandah of the historic London Hotel and down a Young Henrys lager. See you there, perhaps?