Odette

After winning over diners at the aforementioned Jaan, Michel Bras protégé Julien Royer swapped the highs of the city’s tallest restaurant for a more down-to-earth setting at the National Gallery (odetterestaurant.com). His aspirations, however, are no less lofty. Plush surfaces, double-dressed tables and gold accents make a suitably elegant backdrop for bouillabaisse with Irish blue lobster and Provence artichokes, heirloom beetroot teased into myriad forms and the rest of Royer’s delicate, modern French handiwork. The service is attentive while the wine list, not surprisingly, showcases plenty of Gallic names.