Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel

Dunkeld, Victoria

As well as rearing cows, sheep and chickens (for eggs) on 10,000 hectares, Robin Wickens, chef at this renowned gastropub in the state’s West, grows more than 700 types of vegetables, herbs, nuts and fruit (including more than 50 varieties of tomato) on another 2.4 hectares. He estimates the pastures and garden provide around 80 per cent of the kitchen’s needs but “we have achieved 100 per cent during summer and spring.”

His reasons are clear. “It’s about quality control, access to rare varieties and an opportunity to explore different types of produce.”