Pamela Valdes Pardo

Qantas - - YES, CHEF! - Bar Pa­trón by Rock­pool, Syd­ney

re­it­er­at­ing the sen­ti­ment of his speech. “The only way for­ward for the in­dus­try – the only way we’ll stop this tal­ent drain – is to be sen­si­tive to what work­ers go through and what they need.”

Work/life bal­ance was clearly im­por­tant to lauded chef Analiese Gre­gory when she left Syd­ney’s Bar Brosé for cen­tral Ho­bart’s Franklin (franklin­ho­bart.com.au) in 2017. The New Zealan­der, who wears a sig­na­ture Rosie the Riveter-style ban­dana, has be­come known (and loved) as a for­ag­ing, div­ing and fish­ing chef – a par­a­digm once seen as hy­per­mas­cu­line. Shortly af­ter tak­ing the reigns at Franklin, she and the own­ers agreed to close for lunch. “We were do­ing crazy hours and I re­alised it wasn’t go­ing to be sus­tain­able,” she says. “And I wanted to have time to visit sup­pli­ers, for­age, hike, dive, de­velop dishes and do all the things I moved to Tas­ma­nia for.”

Such clar­ity and de­ter­mi­na­tion must be in­spir­ing to those fol­low­ing in her foot­steps – young up-and-com­ers like 24-year-old Eil­ish Maloney, cur­rently sous chef at Saint Peter (saint­peter.com.au) in Padding­ton, Syd­ney. She spent two years hon­ing her skills and com­pet­i­tive in­stinct at Brett Gra­ham’s two-Miche­lin-starred Lon­don restau­rant, The Led­bury, and has been tagged by her boss, Josh Ni­land, as a star of the fu­ture. De­ter­mined to make her mark, she’s “ridicu­lously am­bi­tious”, she says.

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