Reviews
Our monthly guide to exciting openings, upgraded offerings and changing chefs.
What’s new (and hot) on the restaurant, bar and café scene
NSW ANTHONY HUCKSTEP ↓ MANLY GREENHOUSE
36-38 South Steyne, Manly (02) 9056 3388 manlygreenhouse.com.au Open seven days for lunch and dinner
After a mid-morning stroll along Manly’s foreshore, enjoy a long, languid lunch at one of the most exciting openings on the northside for some time. Manly Greenhouse’s owners, Patricia Nunes and Greg Anderson (Sails on Lavender Bay), have breathed new life into the three-level former Shore Club to deliver a venue that offers a rooftop bar with stunning panoramic views, a ground-floor contemporary Italian and a serious grill in the middle. With a design by Luchetti Krelle (Banksii, Acme), the restaurant is awash with greenery hanging from the rafters in a room where white brick walls, blond timber and pastel blues and greens set a seaside retreat vibe – and the food is just as pleasing. Shaved fennel, grapes and pomegranate add colour and freshness to kingfish crudo. Ethereally thin, rich slices of prosciutto partner new-season figs and whipped mozzarella. Burnt butter and king brown mushrooms star on a woodfired pizza, while peas and asparagus bring spring to risotto and a fat pork chop is crumbed cotoletta-style. Finish with the tang of a lemon curd tart along with another stroll on the Steyne. ↓
BUON RICORDO
108 Boundary Street, Paddington (02) 9360 6729 buonricordo.com.au Open Thursday-Saturday for lunch and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner
After 31 years at the helm of one of Australia’s most influential Italian restaurants, Armando Percuoco has passed the baton to head chef David Wright. We’ll miss Percuoco’s operatic singing and fiery passion but new owner Wright sings a familiar tune, respectful of Neapolitan cuisine and tradition while keen to explore more modern interpretations. This is a serious lesson in double white tablecloth silver service and masterful cookery underpinned by a mantra of selective sourcing and simplicity on the plate. Start with tiny school prawns, heads removed, dusted in flour and lightly fried until crisp. Campari crystals, candied orange and vermouth combine with gin-cured kingfish crudo to deliver an edible Negroni, while the classic truffled egg fettuccine, tossed and served at the table, is still one of the all-time best dishes Down Under – don’t think about missing it. Pearlescent fillets of red mullet come slathered in a gorgeous cherry tomato, garlic and basil sauce, while a crumbed and rolled sheet of veal stuffed with spinach and parmesan is spot-on. This isn’t a casual, drop-in-for-dinner venue; it’s a very special place that looks set to continue with top-shelf Italian hospitality. ↓
BELLA BRUTTA
135 King Street, Newtown (02) 9922 5941 bellabrutta.com.au Open Saturday-Sunday for lunch and seven days for dinner
It’s the fluffy, charred pizza crust that dreams are made of – light, superbly seasoned and sparsely decorated with best-in-class produce. Pizzeria Bella Brutta is the latest offering from that clever crew behind LP’s Quality Meats, Luke Powell and Tania Houghton, and is backed by one of the city’s most influential restaurant families, the Porteño Group – namely Sarah Doyle, Elvis Abrahanowicz and Joe Valore. As with all their venues, the emphasis is on great food, good times and quality drinks. The long, slender space offers bar seating as well as tables and banquettes that run the length of the room. Start with antipasti to whet the appetite before the flavour disc hits the furnace. Charred Turkish peppers partner a chunky romesco sauce; celery, sunflower seeds, celtuce and pecorino star in a simple salad; and woodfired eggplant is smartly dressed in vinaigrette. Then comes one of the best pizza moments in
Sydney: LP’s pepperoni and fennel seeds combine with fior di latte for the ultimate classic, while garlic, fermented chilli, lemon juice and surf clams are simply stunning. It’s high energy and high turnover but be sure to book – this place is so good, everyone wants a slice.
NT ALFONSINO’S PORCHETTA BAR AND PIZZERIA
20/69 Mitchell Street, Darwin (08) 8942 1586 alfonsinos.com Open Monday-Saturday: porchetta bar for breakfast and lunch; pizzeria for dinner
If you’re fazed by the location between a bus terminal and a backpackers’, by all means order takeaway. But you’d be missing out on the music, the buzz, the spectacle of pizzas borne aloft through the crowd and the sheer pleasure of tearing into the uncut peppeniello mere seconds after it emerges from the golden-tiled pizza oven. It’s charred, chewy and delicious with fresh tomato sauce, ribbons of grilled local eggplant and chunks of sweet fennel-laced Italian sausage. Choose from 20 or so pizza varieties, le rossa or le bianche (red or white). The drinks, salads and desserts are equally simple and good. No surprise really because this pizzeria is the brainchild of Ben Matthews, who brought us the much-loved pop-up Cucina Sotto Le Stelle and the original Alfonsino’s Porchetta Bar. He’s on another winner here.
VIC SUPER LING
138 Queensberry Street, Carlton (03) 9347 5878 superling.com.au Open Monday-Friday for lunch and Monday-Saturday for dinner
Hakka Chinese takes its turn in the dining spotlight at Super Ling. The meaty, not-too-spicy food of the northern-hailing ethnic group is showcased in hearty dishes such as braised pork belly with the kick of fermented mustard greens or the offallovers’ ideal of a mixed meat plate celebrating tertiary cuts of slow-braised beef shin, tripe and chewy threads of pig’s ear. So far, so authentic but there’s a welcome degree of irreverence at this offshoot of Carlton’s Hotel Lincoln, helmed by chef Michael Li. Exhibit A: the chilli-dusted mapo tofu jaffle that spills its lava-hot innards from golden rounds of white bread. Exhibit B: the fried barramundi collar, its golden skin licked with ginger oil and sweet white flesh best picked off with fingers (refresher towels are provided for the mop-up). The one-dessert policy also works a treat: the “mille-feuille” of fried wonton skins sandwiching Sichuanaccented pineapple cream is as deliciously inauthentic as it gets.
TUCK’S RIDGE
37 Shoreham Road, Red Hill South (03) 5989 8660 tucksridge.com.au Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch
All roads lead to the Mornington Peninsula in January and they demand a stop at fun-loving winery Tuck’s Ridge, where the sloping lawn is colonised by barefoot young’uns and the cushionstrewn swing (big enough for the whole family to picnic on) is in hot demand. Recently taken over by next-door neighbour and local leading light Montalto winery, the revamped restaurant has recalibrated itself towards globe-trotting contemporary food. Sashay from Indian-style pakoras with a chilli-thrumming tomato sauce and thick, cooling yoghurt to cured trout and watermelon or feather-light parmesan gnocchi in a gardenparty ensemble of peas and char-edged lettuce grounded in onion sauce. It’s an enjoyable
taste of Peninsula terroir best enjoyed with the estate’s new range, including chardonnay, pinot gris and a delectable rosè.
PIQUANCY
123 Auburn Road, Hawthorn
(03) 9813 5160 thepiquancy.com.au Open Thursday-Saturday for lunch and Wednesday-Monday for dinner
Indian food’s growing street cred has wended its way from Melbourne’s hipster belt of Fitzroy and St Kilda to the moneyed ’hood of Hawthorn. Hindi music videos projected on the wall add Bollywood sparkle to a menu equally at home with a classic butter chicken or the more outré pani puri – light puff pastry balls filled with mashed potato and chickpea served with tamarind water to pour into the top for an explosive one-bite wonder. It’s one of the few dishes on the coeliac-friendly menu that isn’t listed as gluten-free.
QLD
↓ HELLENIKA AT THE CALILE
Level 1, 48 James Street, Fortitude Valley (07) 3252 2060 hellenika. com.au Open seven days for lunch and dinner
The Gold Coast’s favourite Greek restaurant now has a sister venue with her own distinctly urban style. While the menu is almost the same, there’s nary a hint of the easy-breezy, casual vibe of the Nobby Beach outlet here. The smart dining room echoes the architectural design of the hotel in which it’s located, featuring sleek lines, light-hued timber, terrazzotiled floors and pops of brass. The outdoor section, with its crisp white tablecloths and large potted olive trees, is an exemplar of resort-style dining. Whether you settle in for the hearty nine-course banquet or just stop by for a spritz and a saganaki snack, you’re guaranteed quality peoplewatching from your vantage point overlooking the pool deck.
LOBBY BAR
The Calile Hotel, 48 James Street, Fortitude Valley (07) 3607 5888 lobbybar.com.au Open seven days for breakfast, lunch and dinner
With its pretty pink marble bar, white arched ceilings and Italian Mepra cutlery, Lobby Bar’s intimate surroundings are evocative of Palm Springs with a glimpse of Palermo. One look at the menu confirms this is a dining experience cleverly designed for its subtropical Queensland location, lending itself to balmy Brisbane days and nights. The drinks list, with its selection of Australian boutique wines, cocktails and housemade sodas, seals the deal. There are fresh oysters, naturally – with finger lime and umeshu, ponzu and chives or fresh lemon – and a caprese salad of traditional burrata and heirloom tomatoes presented with a Japanese twist, a zingy basil miso dressing. Kingfish crudo is perfectly paired with ponzu and kohlrabi, while tender grilled calamari served with ribbons of crunchy fennel and a punchy yuzu kosho dressing is already a firm favourite. A dessert of raspberry espuma with lychee and apple sorbet completes this light, luscious sojourn.
SA NIGEL HOPKINS
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GATHER AT CORIOLE
Chaffeys Road, McLaren Vale (08) 8323 8305 coriole.com Open seven days for lunch
Coriole has always been noted for its impressive new-varietal wines and betterthan-average cellar door platters but the arrival of chef Tom Tilbury, who has moved his Gather Food and Wine operation from Robe, has taken the experience to a new level. His à la carte and tasting menus are focused on local, sustainable produce and provide a comprehensive insight into the flavours of the McLaren Vale region. Dishes such as barbecued baby octopus with sea succulents collected by Tilbury on the nearby coastline, sorrel leaves folded around shredded blue swimmer crab and a tartare of finely chopped kangaroo mixed with native herbs and served with quandong highlight some of the inspired flavour combinations. ↓
2K.W.
2 King William Street, Adelaide (08) 8212 5511 2kwbar.com.au Open seven days for lunch and dinner
2K.W. has been fortunate in its choice of head chefs – each stamping their own distinct personality on the menu – and the arrival of Trent Lymn continues the tradition. Originally from Adelaide, his path has included working with a gastropub pioneer in London and opening his own café in Argentina. Lymn’s 2K.W. menu reflects his interest in native Australian ingredients and the Italian and Spanish flavours typical of Argentina. Standout dishes include an escabeche of Port Lincoln sardines topped with garlic crumbs and a simply presented burrata teamed with well-ripe tomatoes and pickled green almond, both of which are eclipsed by a large fillet of Murray cod on a Geraldton wax beurre blanc surrounded by clams – a dish for two. Even if sweets aren’t your thing, try the Porteño Breakfast – a layered dessert that contains nicotine, caffeine and alcohol. Buenos Aires in a glass.
TAS JO COOK
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SHAMBLES BREWERY
222 Elizabeth Street, Hobart (03) 6289 5639 shamblesbrewery.com.au Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and Wednesday-Sunday for dinner
In Hobart’s Midtown you’ll find this stylish brewery with an award-winning fit-out by Room 11 and Atomic Blender. Out the back is the brewery, with long timber tables and stools for lounging, along with table tennis if you
fancy being more active. A bar and restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating is at the front. Chef Glenn Batchelor has recently come across from the popular New Sydney Hotel and offers so much more than delicious burgers and fried chicken (although, see if you can resist the Shamburger with beef patty, cheese, house bacon, porter onions and special sauce or the fried chicken with house pickles). Check out the chicken liver parfait with house pickles, the warm zucchini salad with mint and feta or try a chickpea pancake served with roasted cauliflower, creamed tofu, pineapple chutney and herbs. A fresh and varied selection of beers share the drinks list with wines from Derwent Estate and Craigie Knowe, along with a good selection of craft spirits.
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PANKO CHAN
23 Beach Road, Kingston Beach 0479 093 511 pankochan.com.au Open Wednesday-Monday for lunch and dinner
This newly arrived seafood restaurant, bar and takeaway, sister to Hobart’s popular Kinoko Deli, is about 15 minutes south of the city. Japanese duo Nori Narita and Aya Sato run the show, with Narita in the kitchen and Sato front of (nautical-themed) house. For lunch, choose your fish and the style you want it prepared in – tempura (classic, furikake or black sesame), panko-crumbed (with nori and wasabi goma) or crusted soy and ginger. Poke bowls come with brown or white rice, salmon, tuna or tofu, with add-ons such as avocado mash, onsen soft egg or chopped kale and a choice of sauces. Evenings mean Japas (Japanese tapas). Order your oysters natural, with miso gratin or panko-crumbed and follow them with kingfish sashimi with yuzu and negi (onion) sauce or tuna with nori wasabi sauce. Don’t overlook the grilled Tasmanian octopus with miso ranch sauce and the king brown mushroom kushi (skewers) with sweet miso. Roasted pumpkin and spinach with sesame dressing makes a delicious side for yuzu salt and pepper calamari. Finish with a hŌjicha (roasted tea) crème brûlée.
WA MAX VEENHUYZEN LOS BRAVOS
252 William Street, Northbridge losbravos.com.au Open MondaySaturday for dinner
This inner-city tapas bar is a fair way from the sea, yet owners Dan Morris and Emma Ferguson have nailed the brief for beachside cool. Colourful tiles and concert flyers beautify the modern, blond timber room; laid-back staff patrol in equally cheerful Hawaiian shirts; and surf rock plays through the night. (The bar is named after the Spanish beat group behind the 1966 hit single, Black is Black.) The coastal theme extends to the seafood-heavy menu that includes sweet and salt-cured Spanish mackerel, saffron and seafood paella and sour pickled whiting. Otherwise, manchego croquettes and churros stick to the Latin theme, as does the drinks list that showcases beers, cocktails, saline sherries and wines.
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HARVEY LEIGH’S PUBLIC HOUSE
484 Beaufort Street, Highgate (08) 6478 0920 harveyleighs.com Open seven days for breakfast and lunch, and Wednesday-Sunday for dinner
You’ve played your part in denting the burgundy and champagne stocks next door at Wine Rooms by Harvey Leigh’s. Now it’s time to turn your attention to the bigger, more accessible mothership. Whatever the time of day, Harvey Leigh’s is there for you. Coffee and crêpes packing fillings such as prosciutto and gruyère or confit duck and spring onion put the top into the morning; lunch might involve a Wagyu pastrami sandwich; while steak-frites, chicken schnitzel and moules marinières, along with other fine-tuned pub favourites, fit the bill for dinner. As you’d expect from a gastropub run by one-time Quay (Sydney) and Print Hall sommelier Dan Wegener, the drinking is a cut above, whether it’s the considered choice of beers on tap or his impressively far-reaching wine list.
ACT DIANA STREAK TACO TACO
Shop 8, No Name Lane, 40 Marcus Clarke Street, Canberra tacotaco cbr.com Open Monday-Friday for brunch and lunch, and WednesdaySaturday for dinner
Taco Taco’s seasonal menu takes modern Mexican fare in a fun direction, arriving at healthy fast food. Coloured tiles add verve to this compact space in No Name Lane – a strip of casual eateries that has become downtown Canberra’s go-to for quick lunches. Every ingredient here is carefully considered. Horchata, anyone? This earthy spiced rice and nut milk is one of several bottomless beverages. It’s hard to resist the handpressed tacos – “snap” is a crisp veggie delight while “black eye” has tasty refried beans topped with smoked ricotta. Do not despair, carnivores: tortas (“like a burger”) on Three Mills milk buns are top performers, with quality meats sourced regionally. Taco Taco is run by two young chefs, part of the burgeoning crop of talented cooks making their mark around the capital.