Design movements
Innovative, old-school, sexy or sleek, this year’s most covetable watches tell so much more than the time. By Bani McSpedden.
The new timepieces from the watch fairs in Geneva and Basel
Until the early 1970s, what mattered most when it came to watches were accuracy, legibility and water resistance; our favourite wrist instrument was primarily a tool that told us the hour of day. How times change. While these attributes remain important, the watch now does double duty as a teller of time and a highly stylised personal accessory.
The models released at this year’s Geneva and Basel fairs in Switzerland reveal just how far the watch has evolved over five decades, with the impetus for design advances stemming, oddly enough, from a revolution in the internals.
In the ’70s, quartz power swept aside even the finest mechanical movements, replacing them with modules that were not only cheaper but also considerably more accurate. This development levelled the playing field. The quality/accuracy equation was no longer relevant and brands had to employ other methods to stand out.
With mechanical timepieces back in vogue as a prestigious possession, distinct styling has become even more important. Building a brand identity demands no less in the noisy world of social media. Then there’s the role design plays in justifying a luxury market position and price tag. We expect such items – whether they’re cars, boats, appliances or watches – will have a look-at-me factor that sets them apart.
It’s no surprise then that we can picture the offerings of most brands at the mere mention of their names. We are instantly familiar with the look of a Rolex, the heft of a Panerai, the numerals of a Cartier, the shape of a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or the porthole-like bezel of an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
If iconic design is the bedrock, each year brings both minor and major shifts that move us on from the ubiquity of a round watch with a silver or black face mounted on a dark leather strap or metal bracelet. There are blue dials, bronze cases, moon phases and other on-trend complications, as well as materials as diverse as carbon, ceramic, titanium and tantalum.
Where once one style fitted virtually all, today there are myriad choices spanning shape, colour and feel. It means that no matter your personal style, there’s sure to be a watch to match your wardrobe or mood. Take your pick: exotic or everyday, chunky or quirky, paredback or pavéd, vintage or va-va-voom.
We might not have as much time on our hands but we can certainly enjoy more striking design on our wrists – as evidenced by these 2019 newcomers.