Discover Hawaii’s tranquil Windward Coast on Oahu
It’s just 30 minutes drive from the crowded beaches and malls of Waikiki yet this scenic, serene part of Hawaii has somehow managed to fly under the radar of most travellers.
When you arrive in Honolulu, you don’t have to fly to a second island to find the tropical Jurassic Park-style vegetation, ancient volcanic mountains, laid-back beach towns and empty coastline of the “real” Hawaii. Rent a car, point it north-east and in half an hour you’ll disappear into the lush and rain-refreshed Windward Coast of the island of Oahu, where nature takes centrestage and most tourists don’t think to tread. Low-key and reminiscent of old-school island life, this is the spot where Hawaii native Barack Obama and his family usually retreat to for cruisy Christmas vacations.
The mountains
On the road from Honolulu, Makapu’u Point marks the beginning of the Windward Coast, also known as the East Shore. There’s a wide paved path – a 3.2-kilometre round trip – that takes you past the red-roofed 1909 lighthouse the hike is named after, rewarding walkers with a panorama of the confetti of tiny islands offshore. Watch out for the telltale spray of migrating humpback whales between November and May.
The valleys
If the verdant valleys around the 1600-hectare nature retreat Kualoa Ranch (kualoa.com) look familiar, it’s probably because you’ve seen them crawling with dinosaurs as part of the backdrop to the movie Jurassic Park. You won’t spot a velociraptor these days but you can take a lazy horseback tour in the Ka’a’awa Valley that winds through the emerald grasslands scattered with sunny frangipanis and crimson hibiscus. Those who prefer two wheels to four legs can explore the area on an e-bike.
The waters
Swimming is one way to make the most of the sapphire-blue sea and quiet beaches of this part of Oahu. But if you want to go deeper – literally – make a beeline for Kailua Beach, where you can hire a sea kayak and head out to Mokulua Nui, one of a pair of island seabird sanctuaries just off the coast. Glide over the crystal-clear waters until you reach the live coral reefs then jump in and snorkel with curious turtles. Afterwards, relax on the beach on the island’s west side before heading back to the mainland.