03. FREMANTLE
With a heady history and hippie heart, Fremantle marches to its own beat. The port suburb is steeped in hundreds of years of maritime, convict and colonial history, with grand Edwardian and Victorian buildings to show for it. Synonymous with buskers, markets and free spirits, Fremantle has seen an influx of hip eating and drinking spots that are as welcome as the Freo Doctor – the cooling afternoon sea breeze.
STAY WARDERS HOTEL
A collection of limestone heritage cottages – the former homes of Fremantle Prison’s warders – has been artfully reimagined as boutique stays (wardershotel.com.au). Enjoy housemade pastries and barista coffee in the morning and sip a Gimlet at the hotel’s bar of the same name at night (apparently it’s what the warders used to drink).
EAT AND DRINK MOORE & MOORE
This quirky café and gallery (mooreand moorecafe.com.au) is a Freo institution, housed in a mid-1800s merchant’s warehouse with trapdoors in the ceilings. Come for the sage and burnt butter pumpkin mash, linger for contemporary art and people watching.
BREAD IN COMMON
It has the unmistakable scent of fresh-fromthe-oven bread but this renovated industrialcool warehouse (breadincommon.com.au) is home to so much more than a bakery. The sprawling restaurant, designed by architect
Michael Patroni, serves farm-to-table plates with vegetables and herbs picked from the kitchen gardens in nearby Coogee. The juicy Fremantle sardines with pickled tomato, shallot and horseradish are a must-order.
MANUKA WOODFIRE KITCHEN
Chef Kenny McHardy, who once worked under Gordon Ramsay, brings his zeal for local produce and the open flame to this cosy restaurant (manukawoodfire.com.au). The Abrolhos Island scallops and smoky buttery sirloin are standouts. (And don’t skip the seasoned flatbread with olive oil.)
STRANGE COMPANY
A cool vibe, friendly service and killer drinks list: this sleek small bar (strangecompany.com. au) has it all. Head down on a Sunday afternoon for live jazz paired with Australian wines and inventive cocktails you aren’t likely to find on any other menus.
REPUBLIC OF FREMANTLE
Sample the small-batch spirits and excellent share plates at this sophisticated gin and vodka distillery (republicoffremantle.com). The prawn toast served on brioche with remoulade is a winner and pairs beautifully with the MoMo, a whisky, peach and pandan cocktail topped with toasted rice. Sample the range of signature spirits with a tasting flight, replete with tonics and seasonal garnishes.
DO
EXPLORE SHIPWRECKS
For a voluntary $5 donation, the WA Shipwrecks Museum (visit.museum.wa.gov.au) offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the state’s treacherous maritime history. Don’t miss the preserved timbers and bloodthirsty tale – brought to life after dark – of the notorious 1629 Batavia wreck.
GO TO MARKET
The Fremantle Markets (fremantlemarkets. com.au) have been a Friday and weekend mainstay since 1897, when shoppers arrived by horse and cart. Inside the same impressive Victorian building, you’ll find fresh produce, local art, vintage clothes and knick-knacks. There’s also great street food – try the ramen at Dosukoi Japanese Noodle & Bubble Tea.