Qantas

Choose your Arnhem Land adventure

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Tour with the experts

Remove all the guesswork with an organised tour. Indigenous­owned Lirrwi Tourism (lirrwi tourism.com.au), operating out of Yirrkala near Nhulunbuy, allows you to connect directly with the Yolngu. Lirrwi offers day trips but we recommend a multi-day tour. Outback Spirit’s (outbackspi­rittours.com. au) 13-day trip from Nhulunbuy to Darwin includes time at Mt Borradaile, known for its Aboriginal rock art, and Seven Spirit Bay luxury lodge in Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, Western Arnhem Land.

Drive yourself – if you’re game

The six-to-nine-hour drive from Darwin – depending on the condition of the road – to Wiligi Outstation (wiligiarnh­emland. com.au) passes through Kakadu National Park and Western Arnhem Land and ultimately rewards you with ocean views on arrival. You’ll need a 4WD vehicle and your own food, though you can hire a boat and try your hand at fishing. Plan to stay a few days to fully relax in the seafront campsites or cabins but check availabili­ty and conditions well ahead; the road is often impassable and includes the tidal crocodilei­nfested Cahills Crossing. Wiligi traditiona­l owner Reuben Cooper is authorised to issue permits to visitors and is the go-to for updates on road conditions and the best time to attempt Cahills Crossing.

Fly in and make your own way

Flights to Nhulunbuy depart from Cairns or Darwin. Allow several hours to immerse yourself in Aboriginal art and culture, including watching artists work, at Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre (yirrkala.com) in nearby Yirrkala. Stay at the Walkabout Lodge (walkabout lodge.com.au) in Nhulunbuy or head to Banubanu Beach Retreat (banubanu.com) on beautiful Bremer Island, a short flight away. Banubanu offers fishing tours out of Bremer Island or Nhulunbuy but anyone can test their seafaring skills with Gove Boat Hire (goveboathi­re. com). In the Northern Territory, you don’t need a licence for recreation­al boating.

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