Qantas

Perfect for a party, gamay is the cool cousin of pinot noir.

- Story by Peter Bourne

Is gamay a grape or a wine? It’s the name of the grape and the mandatory red variety in the Beaujolais appellatio­n, which encompasse­s Beaujolais-Villages and  prestige crus with floral names including Fleurie, Saint-Amour, Juliénas and Chiroubles. Does it grow in Australia? Yes and here it’s labelled by its varietal name, gamay. It’s been a slow burn since the pioneers planted vines in about the ƒ„s but now it’s gathering pace. Sites that are a tad warm for pinot noir seem to work best – serious pinot growers, such as By Farr (as Farr Rising), Bass Phillip and Eldridge Estate, are key players. The Australian benchmark is Beechworth’s Sorrenberg, a rich, multilayer­ed gamay in the muscular style of a Brouilly or Moulin-à-Vent. Beaujolais is typically fresh and bright. Is Australian gamay the same?

Absolutely. It’s a juicy, red-fruited variety (think strawberry, raspberry and cherry) with mild tannins and a refreshing acidity. A cool gamay is dangerousl­y drinkable. So, it’s okay to chill? Sure is. Gamay is the perfect picnic red partnered with pâté, rillettes or charcuteri­e. More serious wines slot into pinot noir territory; sip them with duck or a gutsy cassoulet. Take gamay to a party and leave the pinot for the dining table. Where are the best local

wines grown? Gamay likes granitic soils (pinot prefers limestone) so look to regions where gold was mined, such as Beechworth, Macedon Ranges, Geelong and Orange. And the names to look

out for? In addition to Sorrenberg, Bass Phillip and Farr Rising, there’s Punt Road, Mac Forbes and Mayer from the Yarra, Lyons Will from Macedon, See Saw from Orange and Sinapius from Tassie. Oh, and Te Mata and Mount Edward from New Zealand.

How much does it cost? Local drops range from ™š to ™›; Beaujolais fetches similar prices, while cru wines hit ™„ and beyond.

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