CO-CHAIR’S

Exploring a bumper crop of alternatives to the mainstream.

One of the most fascinating things to emerge in Australian wine over the last two decades has been the focus on – and admiration for – so-called ‘alternative’ grape varieties. New Wave, New Australian, whatever moniker you choose to use, these varieties that fall outside the wellknown and loved suite of wine grapes (like Shiraz and Chardonnay) are today universally celebrated by wine trade professionals and wine loving customers.

Why is it that these varieties have been so well received here in Australia? In an attempt to find out I spoke with one of the best minds and palates in Australian wine. Leanne Altmann has an enviable CV – it doesn’t do her any justice to just say she is a sommelier and wine communicator, or that she is Beverage Director for Trader House (Supernormal, Cutler & Co.) The current Chair of the Australian Alternate Varieties Wine Show (AAVWS), Altmann is a leading contributor to

Australian wine and the perfect person to speak with on our varietal cornucopia.

“Emerging is the term I prefer,” says Altmann. “It’s so exciting to watch guests in our restaurants either recognise or seek out these varieties. Take Fiano, for instance. The upswell at Trader House venues for Fiano has been remarkable – and that is not to discount other emerging varieties either.”

Naturally, I had to ask why this is. “To me, it’s a combination of factors,” says Altmann. “There is a greater concentration of ‘emerging varieties’ on the market than ever before, so exposure is higher. Sustainability is a concern for many people these days, and many of these varieties require less input and resources to be successfully grown.”

In turn, Altmann continues, “these lower inputs mean that the cost of production is lower, and the wines can be sold at a cheaper and more accessible price. Also, these wines offer individual and unique tastes and textures.”

SUSTAINING THE CONVERSATION

Flipping the conversation from the wine consumer to the wine producer, Altmann and I talked about why these varieties are important to the Australian wine landscape.

“I think it’s important to clarify that these varieties are more relevant domestically than to a global market, where Australian Shiraz dominates,” she says.

“These varieties bring us some much-needed diversity. They are a valuable tool we can use to communicate our ‘terroirs’ around the country. In terms of wine production, we’re such young country, so why wouldn’t we use all the colours on our palate to paint the picture?”

For good reason, there has been a lot of noise about the sustainability and environmental benefits of these varieties. I ask Altmann if this is also important to the future success of such grapes.

“I think it is, yes. Sustainability helps get people excited,” she says. “It’s been well-documented how well drought- and heat-tolerant varieties suit certain regions, but now we can start talking about how some of the varieties can benefit regions that are experiencing more rain, or flooding and higher disease pressure thanks to climate change.”

To conclude our chat, I ask Altmann what’s next for emerging varieties. “The next challenge is focusing on making and selling super-premium examples of these varieties. Wine quality has never been higher, so it’s exciting to think about what the next few years will bring,” she says.

As I kick back and welcome the temperate autumn with a nice Fiano, I couldn’t agree more.