Signature Luxury Travel & Style
NEW CALEDONIA
Visit the Isle of Pines by superyacht and explore a world of floating luxury
Bernard doesn’t say much and, when he does, it’s softly spoken French with a hint of Kanak indifference. It matters little to Bernard whether he’s taking his boat out to catch fish or helping travellers get to the top of a shallow lagoon in the Isle of Pines. His boat is a pirogue, a large wooden canoe paired to an outrigger and fitted with a simple sail that folds open like the wings of a butterfly.
It is the antithesis of the superyacht that sailed us here.
Most people who visit the Isle of Pines arrive on a plane from Nouméa, or one of the large cruise ships that roll through on their way to the Loyalty Islands. The lucky ones will arrive here on Masteka 2, a $20 million superyacht sleeping up to 12 guests that leaves its home port of Sydney between May and September to sail the waters of New Caledonia. Masteka 2 is a self-contained support system, the perfect mobile resort for a week or two touring the Loyalty Islands and the hidden gems around Maré, Lifou and Ouéva.
A path through the palms The walk from Upi Bay to the Natural Pool takes an hour. In sections the path is wide open, edged by massive old coconut palms. Coconut crabs dig holes big enough to lose your shoe. Mostly the trail is narrow as it steps through tree roots and vines. We have a local guide with us, Zerena, who belongs to one of the eight Kanak tribes who claim possession of the Isle of Pines.
Zerena is at home in the forest. Instinctively she reaches down to grab large brown snails that hide among the forest floor. I can’t see them until she has them in hand; her eyes are better
tuned to the task. When she flips them over, the bright orange inside of their shell sparkles. These will be cooked over hot coals and served with parsley and garlic butter. There’s a little bit of France everywhere you go in New Caledonia, even in the jungles of this remote island.
When we exit the forest the familiar shape of the columnar pines are everywhere. They thrive in the sandy shores and limestone outcrops, like ancient guardians protecting this treasured island of the Pacific.
A channel no deeper than a foot of water at low tide marks our path towards the Natural Pool. Black and red fiddler crabs run from sight with our footsteps, then pop out of their holes to resume feeding in the sand.
Where the path runs out, a broad beach slips gently into the salty blue pool. Geology and time have conspired to create a naturally protected sandy pool that gets flushed with ocean surges twice a day. Reef fish swim around your legs and an array of coral and clams offer vibrant colours to compete with the fish. This is what we’ve come for. Just a handful of people will make the journey in the low season, even though the sunshine is generous and the water still comfortably warm.
Going bespoke
As we wave goodbye to Zerena on the jetty, our crew are waiting to take us back to Masteka 2 to watch the sunset with a glass of rosé.
The skipper, Matt Stafford, has been at the helm of the boat for the last six years and instils confidence in the crew and passengers. He looks sharp in the white captain’s shirt, but quickly changes gear to adventure when there’s a jet ski to launch or a fishing rod to wind in. Imagine a cross between Bear Grylls and an airline pilot.
With a two-metre draught, the yacht is able to nudge up close to reefs at low tide, then drop the tender to get us right onto the best spots for snorkelling or diving. With my eyes immersed in the coral garden below, I take in the views beneath the surface while my ears can still hear the calling of songbirds in the forests just metres from shore. When I’ve had my fill of natural beauty I am minutes away from my cabin, a hot shower and a fine Rhône Valley shiraz.
Matt is assisted by five other crew members who join watch on the bridge, prepare kayaks for a paddle and ensure quality of service on the decks. Our
chef on board is Shayne Turbin, who handles the provisioning of the boat before departure and delivers fine meals on the water. Shayne offers a wide repertoire, from barbecues on the back deck to an island-style seafood bouillabaisse adorned with grilled crab and limes.
French flair
The entire experience from shore to shoal is customised for every departure, including itineraries and menus. Even the wine list is negotiated in advance, taking full advantage of Nouméa’s colonial connections. On the list of winning picks were a summery Grenache from St Tropez (Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez) and a delicate Pinot Noir from the hills of Alsace (Domaine Gustave Lorentz).
While the chef himself spends a few days provisioning before each journey, the wines are coordinated with the help of Château Royal Beach Resort & Spa in Nouméa. Most travellers will spend a night or two in the capital before or after boarding the yacht to smooth out flight connections. Château Royal is nestled on a peninsula to the south of the city, with sunset views and beautifully fitted suites that embrace contemporary style and a sense of island comfort. Fine chocolatiers and classic boulangeries are worth visiting when you head into town, or make a visit to one of the cellars if you want to take home some really good French wine. The hotel is also a short bicycle ride away from the Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre, a beautifully designed celebration of Kanak culture.
If you want a taste of France just a few hours’ flying time from Australia, then New Caledonia is perfect. If you want some of the best reef experiences in the Pacific, then the Isle of Pines will not disappoint. For the ultimate in comfort and privacy, you won’t do better than chartering a beautiful yacht and setting sail for a week or more.
Travel file
Accommodation
Masteka 2 accomodates up to 12 guests in five cabins. Charter rates start from $100,000 per week, not including provisioning, local taxes and surcharges. oceanalliance.com complexechateauroyal.nc
Getting there aircalin.com