Signature Luxury Travel & Style
GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS
Follow in Darwin’s wake on a voyage through the biodiversity of the Galápagos.
Red-chested frigate birds, supersized tortoises, blue-footed boobies, green turtles and golden iguanas are among the galaxy of wonderful creatures you’re almost certain to encounter – at very close quarters – around Ecuador’s remote Galápagos archipelago.
David Attenborough has described the region as “the most spectacular explosion of biological diversity in the world”, and everyone’s favourite hero of natural history is not wrong.
I’m sailing on the maiden voyage of Ecoventura’s 20-passenger MV Theory, and over one week we’re invited into a world of spectacular volcanic islands where the wildlife is, famously, unafraid of humans.
Our two naturalist-guides, Yvonne Mórtola and Billy Maquilon, lead us on snorkelling, hiking and kayaking tours through the national park’s southern islands, with the cruise starting and finishing at San Cristóbal.
There are multiple daily shore excursions, and one of Ecoventura’s many standout features is that the guide-to-guest ratio of one to 10 is higher than the mandated standard of one to 16.
At Billy’s first briefing, held in the ship’s lounge, we learn what to expect in the coming days, as well as a few basic ground rules.Even though we will be incredibly close to birds, reptiles and mammals, touching them can affect their future survival; a mother sea lion might well reject her cub if she detects human scent on it.
Solid eco-credentials Ecoventura’s president, Santiago Dunn, is here with his wife and two of their four sons. A passionate conservationist, Dunn has been involved in the company since his father founded it in the 1990s.
Santiago is passionate about Ecoventura’s “green journey”, which began when it became the first line in the Galápagos to earn and maintain The Rainforest Alliance’s Smart Voyager certification.
As well as partnering with the World Wildlife Fund to establish the Galápagos Marine Biodiversity Fund, financing eco-related projects and reducing his ships’ carbon emissions, Santiago is a firm believer in providing discerning travellers with an exceedingly comfortable onboard environment.
So much so that MV Theory’s sister ship, MV Origin, was selected to join the prestigious Relais & Châteaux group last year; MV Theory is expected to take her place within the association in the near future.
Cruising by design
On MV Theory, it’s all about the details. The ship’s designer, Cindy Muirragui, is on board this sailing to check everything is in place. Her team of 45 artisans custom-made every piece of furniture, from the guest beds to the elegant wing chairs, leather couches and beautiful marble bar.
Chef Estuardo Vilela’s cuisine is a world away from traditional expedition fare. He and his team devise dishes that combine Ecuadorian, Latin American and European traditions, using both locally farmed and imported products, most being sustainable and organic.
Unsurprisingly, seafood features frequently – the Ecuadorian fish soup is high on my list of favourite dishes – and the most popular dinner of the cruise is a lavish barbecue held on the sun deck.
Another foodie highlight is Estuardo’s demonstration preparing ceviche; you don’t have to write it down, as Ecoventura’s cookbook is available for purchase.
Endless exploration
Our seven-night adventure encompasses everything from seeing giant Galápagos tortoises in the wild to learning the differences between endemic and native species; spotting pink iguanas that turn red and green in the Christmas season; exploring a lava tube; and walking on utterly deserted white-sand beaches where sea lions loll about looking endearing and diamond stingrays hover just below the waves at the water’s edge.
Every day on snorkelling trips we see dozens of varieties of tropical fish, white-tipped sharks flickering in the depths, sea lions performing acrobatic underwater tricks and, just once, penguins dipping and diving.
On our final day we not only swim with hammerhead sharks, but also spot a school of spotted eagle and manta rays gliding beneath us in a tantalising display that has us swimming with them – utterly mesmerised – for as long as we can keep up. Even veteran diver Billy is awed by the spectacle.
Does it get any better? Well, yes. That evening we are treated to a long, blazing sunset that says farewell in a way that is so breathtaking, it is beyond words.