ISLAND IDYLL

Fiji has its fair share of no-expense-spared private island resorts. But COMO Laucala Island steals the scene for its drive to become self-sufficient – in the most stylish way, writes Cathy Wagstaff.

From the moment you land on Laucala, time seems to slow. Palm fronds wave at their own pace. The sun takes an impossibly long time to fizz into the ocean. Even the butterflies flitting between lipstick-pink ginger flowers appear to be waltzing. In fact, the only thing racing on this postcard-perfect drop of land is my heart. It’s not just the prospect of being in Fiji that excites – because what’s not to love about this jewel-like archipelago in the middle of the Coral Sea? It’s also the idea of being part of one of the most self-sufficient holiday ecosystems on the planet.

One glimpse at its website and you’ll see that Laucala is indeed as exclusive as resorts come – rooms start from $8,000 a night. But it’s only when you touch down on the private island’s runway that you discover the retreat’s finely tuned program of sustainable living initiatives, extending above and beyond any I have experienced.

The resort’s 25 villas – each a glamorous version of traditional Fijian dwellings – spare nothing when it comes to space, with high thatched roofs crowning bedrooms and living areas. A network of boardwalks lead to pools ringed by tiki torches, cabanas, dining bures and yoga decks and there are outdoor showers and day beds galore, conveniently just steps from private beaches and gardens.

Despite their size, villas account for just 20 per cent of the island’s 12-square-kilometre footprint, the rest left in the hands of Mother Nature – think coconut groves, flower and herb gardens, a farm and 18-hole golf course, its outline of granite boulders and ivory sand fading into the halo of an opaline lagoon.

History in the making

In 1972, Malcolm Forbes purchased this luscious green gem as his private refuge; its current owner, Red Bull magnate Dietrich Mateschitz, poured a pretty penny into delivering style and sustainability in equal measure – a barefoot luxury charge he recently passed to COMO Hotels and Resorts, now managing the property. To be honest, the Singaporean company didn’t have to do much when they accepted the baton – Mateschitz has always had an eye for the finer things.

My beachfront Plantation Residence comes with all the expected mod cons (Bose sound systems, giant plasma TVs, bars stocked with champagne), and exuberant decor – sofas evoke seashells, light shades are crafted from hundreds of butterfly cocoons, bathtubs (I have two) are carved from single slabs of granite. Everything has an earthy appeal, from the cool stone floors to the driftwood handicrafts. And when colour is used, it riffs on nature outside: blues, creams, greens and a flash of coral red.

My personal tau (‘friend’ in Fijian) is on speed-dial to deliver amuse-bouches during the day and ensure all three fridges never run dry. Meals materialise in minutes thanks to a small army of staff – they outnumber guests four to one. But Laucala also has five bars and restaurants, which I’m set to explore. Behind the wheel of my electric golf buggy, I ease through a tangle of jungle and exotic gardens, past the lagoon-style pool toward Plantation House.

Long before the world began slinging around terms like ‘produce-to-plate’, Laucala’s chefs, farmers and gardeners lived the ethos. Some 85 per cent of what turns up on your plate is foraged, grown or raised on the island, whether organic crops such as vanilla, pepper and teas, or free-range animals including poultry, wagyu cows, pigs, quails, Peking ducks and coconut crabs.

Beehives provide honey, and chocolates are handmade from the resort’s cocoa beans. Three organic greenhouses produce vegetables, and gardens nurture fruit trees. Coconuts star in meals, but are also used in beauty products and cocktails, ideally sipped under the dramatic sails of the Beach Bar – it reminds me of an oversized coconut crab in design.

Flavours of Fiji

COMO’s presence is subtle throughout, including at Plantation, where the brand’s uber-healthy Shambhala meals are now on the menu. Which means if free-range eggs and bacon don’t win you over, you can opt for coconut chia pudding, ‘real toast’ (nuts and seeds, avocado crush, vine tomatoes, cucumber and basil), house-smoked salmon and green juices that give your liver a kickstart. Elsewhere across the island there’s Seagrass Lounge, set high amid a canopy of trees serving pan-Asian flavours; Rock Lounge, where the sun sets over Seagrass Bay; and the Pool Bar, for tropical drinks and light bites in between leisurely laps.

The other place COMO excels is in the Shambhala Retreat. This dreamy spa cocoon instantly slows my pulse. Perhaps it’s the setting, enveloped by herb, spice and fruit gardens that provide aromats for massage oils, body scrubs and moisturisers. 01 COMO Laucala wows from above © Jason Busch 02 One of the expansive overwater villas © Jason Busch 03 The striking outdoor stone bathtub 04 Vistas of sparkling waters await 05 The glass-edged infinity pool. Images 03 - 05 © Martin Morrell