FRILL SEEK­ERS

Ruf­fles are back, with a twist! Use a lux­u­ri­ous nat­u­ral yarn blend to get a to­tally chic re­sult.

Simply Crochet - - CONTENTS -

GET IT IN THE NECK

A cro­cheted neck­lace is al­ways go­ing to be a talk­ing point. This one is a real state­ment piece, and is fab­u­lously tac­tile.

KEEP YOUR EDGE

Some­times keep­ing warm means mak­ing a com­pro­mise with style. But it doesn’t al­ways have to be that way. This cat­walk-ready tipped num­ber is per­fect for stay­ing styled on cooler days, just throw it on and you’re there.

GAME FOR A SCARF

…or is it a wrap? What­ever. Big, bold and full of drama, it’s di cult to de­cide what we heart the most about this. That it’s hug­gably warm? Its el­e­gantly sim­ple colour scheme? The soft tac­til­ity of the yarn? Or is it sim­ply that it’s just so on-trend?

YES, MA'AM

In­dulge your in­ner princess with this tiara-style head­band. We’ll be wear­ing ours to the royal wed­ding this sum­mer – we’re sure our in­vite’s in the post…

LET'S TALK ABOUT SOCKS

Imag­ine jump­ing out of bed on a morn­ing and slip­ping on th­ese cosy lovelies, grab­bing the pa­pers and re­lax­ing with a cup of co ee. Slip­pers? Yes­ter­day’s news.

THAT'S HANDY

We love th­ese ru es­ome wrist­warm­ers. Whether you’re do­ing the school run, walk­ing the dog or sim­ply go­ing for an af­ter­noon stroll, your wrists need never shiver again.

NECK­LACE

Trans­form your out­fit from ‘meh’ to ‘wow’ with this clever, quick-to-make neck­lace, de­signed by Sara Scales.

■ Rowan Hemp Tweed (75% wool, 25% hemp, 50g/95m), 1 ball of each:

Yarn A Wil­low (146)

Yarn B Pu­mice (138)

■ A 2mm (US B/1) cro­chet hook

■ 40cm (16in) leather cord with lob­ster

claw fas­ten­ing

TEN­SION

Ten­sion is not im­por­tant for this project

MEA­SURE­MENTS

Each ball mea­sures ap­prox 5cm (2in) in di­am­e­ter

NOTES

A smaller hook than usual is re­quired for this project. You may find that you have to be care­ful not to split the yarn.

The leather cord is threaded through the ini­tial ch6 ring, so en­sure your ring is large enough to slip it through.

MO­TIF (MAKE 3)

Make 2, work­ing rounds as fol­lows: Rounds 1, 2 and 4 in Yarn A; Round 3 in Yarn B. Make 1, work­ing rounds as fol­lows: Rounds 1, 2 and 4 in Yarn B; Round 3 in Yarn A.

Us­ing Yarn A, ch6, ss to first ch to join ring.

Round 1 Ch1 (does not counts as st), 12dc into ring, ss to top of first dc. [12 dc]

Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 3tr in each dc, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join, fas­ten off. [36 tr]

Round 3 Join Yarn B in first st, ch3 (counts as tr), 3tr in each tr, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join, fas­ten off. [108 tr]

Round 4 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1 (does not counts as st), dc in each tr, ss in top of first dc to join, fas­ten off. [108 tr]

SHAWL

Wrap your­self up in this fem­i­nine, frilly, su­per-chic asym­met­ric shawl de­signed by Ilaria Caliri.

■ Rowan Hemp Tweed (75% wool, 25% hemp, 50g/95m),

7 balls of Yarn A Pu­mice (138)

5 balls of Yarn B Wil­low (146)

■ A 4.5mm (US 7) hook

TEN­SION

14 sts and 7 rows to mea­sure 10x10cm (4x4in) over tre­ble us­ing 4.5mm hook

MEA­SURE­MENTS

160x52cm (63x20 in)

NOTES

The Shawl has a right-an­gled tri­an­gle shape. It is worked in rows, turn­ing ev­ery row.

The Shawl is formed by a tre­ble cro­chet and net base to which the ruf­fles are added af­ter­wards. See Chart on p93.

SHAWL

Us­ing Yarn A, ch22.

Row 1 Ch3 (counts as a tr through­out), tr in the fourth ch from hook, (ch2, skip 2 ch from the foun­da­tion ch, tr in next ch) 7 times, turn. [2 tr + 7 spa­ces of (ch2, tr)]

Row 2 Ch5, (tr in next tr, ch2) 6 times, tr in next 2 sts, turn. [2 tr + 7 spa­ces]

Row 3 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch and in each tr to first ch-sp, (ch2, tr in next tr) 7 times, turn. [3 tr + 7 spa­ces]

Row 4 Ch5, (tr in next tr, ch2) 6 times, tr in each tr to end, turn. [3 tr + 7 spa­ces]

Rows 5-100 Re­peat (Rows 3 and 4).

[51 tr + 7 spa­ces]

Row 101 Ss in each st of the row.

Fas­ten off and weave in ends.

RUF­FLES

See Chart on p93. Work the Ruf­fles on to the net, mak­ing the tre­ble cro­chet around the chains and the ver­ti­cal bar of the tr. Each Ruf­fle is 3 rows deep.

RUF­FLE 1

Start­ing from the first ch-sp af­ter the tr sec­tion of the last Row.

Row 1 At­tach Yarn A into the ch-sp, ch3 (counts as a tr through­out), 2tr in same space, turn. [3 sts]

Row 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next 2 sts, turn. [4 sts]

Row 3 Ch3, tr in each st to end.

Fas­ten off and weave the end into the body of the Shawl so that the cor­ner of the Ruf­fle is sewn to the body of the Shawl. See Chart for the po­si­tion of Ruf­fle 2 and change to Yarn B.

SUB­SE­QUENT RUF­FLES 2 53

Al­ter­nate between Yarn A and Yarn B for each Ruf­fle un­til you have com­pleted 21 Ruf­fles. Then re­peat (2 Yarn B Ruf­fles,

1 Yarn A Ruf­fle) 6 times. Then re­peat (3 Yarn B Ruf­fles, 1 Yarn A Ruf­fle) 3 times. Fin­ish with 2 Yarn B Ruf­fles.

Row 1 At­tach yarn into the last ch-sp of the net, ch3, 2tr in same space, *con­tinue

work­ing 3tr around the ver­ti­cal bar of the tr at 90 de­grees, and fol­low­ing the zigzag pat­tern con­tinue work­ing 3tr around the next ch-sp; rep from * un­til the end of the ruf­fle, turn.

[3 sts per space]

Row 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next 2 sts, (2tr in next st, tr in next 2 sts) to end, turn. [In­crease by one st for ev­ery three sts] Row 3 Ch3, tr in each st to end.

Fas­ten off and weave in end as above.

Ruf­fles 5-51 are worked across the full width of the net (13 spa­ces each). Ruf­fles 52 and 53 are worked across 8 spa­ces and 4 spa­ces re­spec­tively to com­plete the op­po­site cor­ner.

HEAD­BAND

Cosy, stylish, and sim­ple to hook up in an in­stant? Win, win, win with Bry­ony Hitch­cock’s boho head­band. (You’ll want the neck­lace to match, mind…)

■ Rowan Hemp Tweed (75% wool, 25% hemp, 50g /95m), 1 ball of each:

Yarn A Pu­mice (138)

Yarn B Wil­low (146)

■ A 4.5mm (US 7) hook

■ A nar­row-width plas­tic hair­band

■ Ta­pes­try nee­dle

TEN­SION

Ten­sion is not crit­i­cal for this project

MEA­SURE­MENTS

27x6cm at widest point (10 x2 in)

NOTES

The frill can be ad­justed so that the two sides sit sep­a­rately, or in­ter­twine – it’s up to you. HEAD­BAND

Us­ing a 4.5mm hook and Yarn A, ch51.

Round 1 Dc in fl of 2nd ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st), dc in fl in next 48 ch, 3dc in last ch, work­ing on op­po­site side of foun­da­tion ch, dc in bl in next 48 ch, 2dc in same ch as first dc, ss in first st to join. [102 sts]

Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in bl in next 5 sts, htr in bl in next st, (3tr in bl in next st) 38 times, htr in bl in next st, dc in bl in next 5 sts, 3dc in bl in next st; rep from * once, ss in first st, fas­ten off.

[258 sts]

Turn work to WS. Round 3 Join Yarn A to first tr on one side with ss, ch1, (2dc in next tr) 112 times), ch1, ss to last tr on this side to join, fas­ten off. Us­ing Yarn B, re­peat round 3 along the op­po­site edge of the piece.

TO FIN­ISH

At­tach the frill to your hair­band by stretch­ing the end pieces around the band un­til they touch on the back, and then sewing them to­gether. At­tach the main frill sec­tion by pass­ing 5 or 6 loops through the cen­tre of the cro­chet and un­der the hair­band, at in­ter­vals of 1cm along the frill.

SOCKS

How cute are th­ese ruf­fled socks by Fran Mor­gan? Oh yeah, this cute.

■ Rowan Hemp Tweed (75% wool, 25% hemp, 50g/95m), 1 ball of each:

Yarn A Pu­mice (138)

Yarn B Wil­low (146)

■ A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook

■ Ta­pes­try nee­dle

TEN­SION

20 sts and 12 rows to mea­sure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pat­tern us­ing 3.5mm hook

MEA­SURE­MENTS

Cir­cum­fer­ence of foot 20 (22: 24)cm (8 (8 : 9 ) in)

Leg Length is ad­justable

NOTES

The Socks are worked from the toe up, us­ing the amigu­rumi method. Work stitches con­tin­u­ously in a spi­ral with­out clos­ing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, mov­ing it up as you work.

SOCKS

TOE

Us­ing a 3.5mm hook and Yarn B, ch11. Round 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across, ro­tate to work in other side of ch, dc in each ch to end. [20 dc]

Round 2 Dc in first st, pm in st just made, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, pm in st just made, 2dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in the last st be­fore marker. [24 sts]

Round 3 Dc in each st around.

Round 4 Dc in first marked st, 2dc in next st, dc across to st be­fore next marker, 2dc in next st, dc in marked stitch, 2dc in next st, dc across to st be­fore next marker, 2dc in next st. [28 sts].

Rep Rounds 3 and 4, un­til there are 40 (44: 48) sts.

FOOT

Change to Yarn A.

Round 1 Tr in each st around.

Round 2 Dc in each st around.

Rep the last 2 rounds un­til the foot mea­sures 6cm (2 in) less than de­sired foot length, end­ing with a Round 2.

Next round Tr in next 20 (22: 24) sts, ch 20 (22: 24), skip the next 20 (22: 24) sts.

Next round Dc in next 20 (22: 24) sts, dc in each of the 20 (22: 24) ch. [40 (44: 48) sts] Work 2 more rounds in pat­tern.

Next round *Tr in next st, ch 1, skip next st; rep from * to end of round, fas­ten off.

FRILL

Re­join Yarn A to base of first tr of last round, *3FPtr around the post of tr (work­ing from the bot­tom to the top of the st), 3tr in ch-1 sp, 3FPtr around the post of next tr (work­ing from the top to the bot­tom of the st), 3tr in dc be­low the next ch (from pre­vi­ous round); rep from * to end, ss to first tr to join.

HEEL

Join Yarn B to Heel gap at one edge.

Round 1 Dc in each st around gap for heel. [40 (44: 48) sts]

Round 2 Dc in first dc of Round 1, pm in st just made, dc2­tog, dc in next 15 (17: 19) sts, dc2­tog, dc in next st, pm in st just made, dc2­tog in next st, dc in next 15 (17: 19) sts, dc2­tog. [36 (40: 44) sts]

Round 3 Dc in each st around.

Round 4 Dc in first marked st, dc2­tog, dc across to 2 sts be­fore next marker, dc2­tog, dc in marked stitch, dc2­tog, dc across to 2 sts be­fore end, dc2­tog. [32 (36: 40) sts] Rep rounds 3 and 4, un­til there are 20 sts.

Fas­ten off and weave in ends.

TO FIN­ISH

Seam toe and heel to­gether. Weave in ends.

wrist warm­ers

Wear th­ese soft frilly wrist warm­ers by Sharon Mur­phy with a denim jacket for ex­tra style points.

■ Rowan Hemp Tweed (75% wool, 25% hemp, 50g/95m)

2 balls of Yarn A Wil­low (146)

1 ball of Yarn B Pu­mice (138)

■ A 4.5mm (US 7) hook

■ Stitch mark­ers

■ Ta­pes­try nee­dle

TEN­SION

20 sts mea­sures 10cm (4in), 7 rows mea­sures 6cm over textured patt us­ing 4.5mm hook

MEA­SURE­MENTS

9x15cm (3 x6in) laid flat

NOTES

The Wrist Warm­ers are worked from the bot­tom up in the round. Slip stitch to first st to join the round un­less other­wise in­di­cated. Textured pat­tern re­quires turn­ing between rounds.

WRIST WARM­ERS (MAKE 2)

Us­ing a 4.5mm hook and Yarn A, ch49, ss in first ch to join into a ring.

Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st here and through­out), dc in first st, dc in next st, (htr3­tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 4 sts) 6 times, htr3­tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts, ss to first dc to join. [35 sts]

Round 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc.

Round 3 (RS) Ch2 (does not count as st here and through­out), htr in each st around, ss to first htr.

Round 4 (RS) Ch3 (does not count as st here and through­out), tr in bl of each htr around, ss to first tr, turn. Round 5 (WS) Ch1, ss in same st as ch1, (tr in next st, ss in next st) around to last 2 sts, tr in next st, skip last st, ss into first ss, turn. [34 sts]

Round 6 (RS) Ch3, tr in same st as ch3, tr in each st around, ss to first tr, turn.

Round 7 (WS) Ch3, tr in same st as ch3, (ss in next st, tr in next st) to last st, ss into last st, ss into top of first tr, turn.

Round 8 (RS) Work as Round 6.

Round 9 (WS) Ch1, ss in first st, (tr in next st, ss in next st) to end of round, ss into first st, turn. [34 sts]

Rounds 10-11 Work as Rounds 6-7.

Round 12 (RS) Ch2, htr in same st as ch2, htr in next 14 sts, htr2­tog over next 2 sts, htr in next 15 sts, htr2­tog over next 2 sts, ss to first htr. [32 sts]

Round 13 (RS) Ch2, htr in same st as ch2, htr in next 7 sts, htr2­tog over next 2 sts, htr in next 14 sts, htr2­tog over next 2 sts, htr in next 6 sts, ss to first htr. [30 sts]

Round 14 (RS) Ch1, dc in same st as ch1, dc in bl of each htr, ss to first dc.

Round 15 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to first dc.

Round 16 (RS) Ch4 (does not count as st), 2dtr in each st around, ss to first dtr. [60 sts] Round 17 Re­peat Round 16, fas­ten off. [120 sts]

Round 18 Join Yarn B, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in bl of each st around, ss to join. Fas­ten off.

TO FIN­ISH

Weave in ends and block, pay­ing par­tic­u­lar at­ten­tion to pin­ning out the htr3­tog points in the first row. YARN STOCK­ISTS Wool Ware­house 01926 882818 www.wool­ware­house.co.uk

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