CLIMBING CABLES JUMPER
Cosy gets an all-singing upgrade with Susan Walsh’s lace cable jumper
YOU WILL NEED
■ Scheepjes Stone Washed (78% cotton, 22% acrylic, 50g/130m)
Yarn A Corundum Ruby (808)
Yarn B Garnet (810)
See table for measurements and yarn quantities
■ A 4.5mm (US 7) hook
■ A 5mm (US H/8) hook
■ Stitch markers
For yarn stockists contact Scheepjes www.scheepjes.com/en TENSION
16 sts and 13 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) of Main Fabric Patt using 5mm hook, or size needed to achieve correct tension, after blocking
ABBREVIATIONS
fdc (foundation double crochet) Ch2, dc in second ch from hook, adding ch1 before last yrh of dc, *(dc in ch-1 of previous st, adding ch1 before last yrh of dc) repeat from * until you have the number of dc stated f3l and b3l – see Note on Working into htr sts
For a full list, see page 94
Experienced crocheters will love getting their hooks into this satisfying project, which uses marled Stone Washed yarn to bring extra depth to the design. Once you’ve learnt the climbing cable panel you can use it in everything from tablecloths to scarves.
NOTES
Body is constructed by joining separate pieces. Strips of Main Fabric Pattern (with neckline shaping for Front Strips) are seamed at the shoulders, then a central Climbing Cable Insert is joined to these strips with a decorative crochet seam. Neckline is finished with decreasing rounds and decorative trims. Sleeves are worked onto the armhole edges in the round and finished with similar trims. Side seams are closed using a mattress stitch technique, then final hemline rounds are added top-down.
Turning ch1 for Main Fabric does not count as st, but turning ch2 for Climbing Cable Insert does count as first tr.
WORKING INTO HTR STS
Main Fabric is a 4-row patt rep of alternating rows of dc and htr. A ridged fabric is created by inserting the hook into alternative loops on the htr sts. Two of the 3 loops at the top of a htr are usually worked. The extra loop at the front or back of the stitch is referred to as the front third loop (f3l), and back third loop (b3l) respectively. When working into the front third loop it pushes the 2 top unworked loops to the WS of the work, and vice versa for the back third loop.
JOINING YARN WITHOUT STARTING LOOP
When you are instructed to join yarn without a starting loop, insert hook without a loop in designated stitch/location, yrh, pull up loop, ch1 (does not count as st). Next instruction is worked into same place as new join.
SWEATER
BACK MAIN FABRIC STRIPS MAKE 2 With a 5mm hook and Yarn A:
Row 1 (RS) 29 (33: 37: 41: 45) fdc, turn.
Row 2 (WS) Ch1, htr across, turn.
[29 (33: 37: 41: 45) sts]
Row 3 Ch1, dc f3l across, turn.
Row 4 Ch1, htr across, turn.
Row 5 Ch1, dc b3l across, turn.
Cont in Main Fabric Patt as described in prev 4 rows for 65 (65: 77: 77: 89) more rows (final row is as Row 2).
Fasten off.
LEFT FRONT MAIN FABRIC STRIP
As Back Main Fabric Strips to end Row 58 (58: 70: 70: 82), turn.
NECKLINE SHAPING ROWS
Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc f3l across 23 (27: 31: 35: 39) htr, leave rem 6 sts unworked, turn.
[23 (27: 31: 35: 39) dc f3l]
Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st), skip 1 dc, htr across, turn. [22 (26: 30: 34: 38) htr]
Row 3 Ch1, dc b3l across to last 3 htr, dc2tog b3l, dc b3l, turn. [21 (25: 29: 33: 37) dc b3l]
Row 4 As Row 2, turn. [20 (24: 28: 32: 36) htr]
Row 5 Ch1, dc f3l across to last 3 htr, dc2tog f3l, dc f3l, turn. [19 (23: 27: 31: 35) dc f3l]
Row 6 As Row 2, turn. [18 (22: 26: 30: 34) htr]
Row 7 As Row 3, turn. [17 (21: 25: 29: 33) dc b3l]
Rows 8-12 Cont in Main Fabric Patt on these 17 (21: 25: 29: 33) sts without further decreases, finishing on a htr (WS) row, turn. Cont to seam shoulder.
SEAM LEFT SHOULDER
With RS of first Back Strip and Left Front Strip tog, ch1 (does not count as st), ss through inner 2 loops of each paired htr across 17 (21: 25: 29: 33) sts (seam worked from outer shoulder towards neck; no ridge shows on RS of seam – ensure your ss tension is relaxed enough to drape with the front and back strip fabrics). Fasten off.
Place markers in st at end Row 44 (40: 48: 48: 56) to mark lower end of armhole. Sleeve will be added top-down in the round between these markers.
RIGHT FRONT MAIN FABRIC STRIP
As Back Main Fabric Strips to end Row 58 (58: 70: 70: 82), turn.
NECKLINE SHAPING ROWS
Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 6ss f3l (relaxed tension – these don’t count as sts), ss f3l in next st, ch1, dc f3l in st at base of ch, dc f3l across rem 22 (26: 30: 34: 38) htr, turn.
[23 (27: 31: 35: 39) dc f3l]
Row 2 (WS) Ch1, htr across to last dc, leave rem dc unworked, turn. [(22 (26: 30: 34: 38) htr]
Row 3 Ch1, dc b3l, dc2tog b3l, dc b3l across, turn. [21 (25: 29: 33: 37) dc b3l]
Row 4 As Row 2, turn. [20 (24: 28: 32: 36) htr]
Row 5 Ch1, dc f3l, dc2tog f3l, dc f3l across, turn. [19 (23: 27: 31: 35) dc f3l]
Row 6 As Row 2, turn. [18 (22: 26: 30: 34) htr]
Row 7 As Row 3, turn. [17 (21: 25: 29: 33) dc b3l]
Rows 8-12 Cont in Main Fabric Patt on these 17 (21: 25: 29: 33) sts without further decreases, finishing on a htr (WS) row, turn. Cont to seam shoulder.
SEAM RIGHT SHOULDER
With RS of second Back Strip and Right Front Strip tog, ch1 (does not count as st), ss through inner 2 loops of each paired htr across 17 (21: 25: 29: 33) sts. (Seam worked from neck outwards.) Fasten off.
Place markers in st at end Row 44 (40: 48: 48: 56) to mark lower end of armhole.
BACK CLIMBING CABLE INSERT
Also refer to Stitch Chart 1: Climbing Cable Insert on p96.
With a 5mm hook and Yarn A:
Row 1 (WS) 13fdc, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch2, tr across, turn. [13 tr]
Row 3 Ch2, BPdtr, tr, BPdtr, tr2tog, tr, tr2tog, BPdtr, tr, BPdtr, tr, turn. [11 sts]
Row 4 Ch2, FPdtr, tr, ch1, FPdtr, tr3tog, FPdtr, ch1, tr, FPdtr, tr, turn. [11 sts]
Row 5 Ch2, BPdtr, tr, ch3, skip ch-sp, BPdtr2tog over next 2 post sts (skip middle tr), ch3, skip ch-sp, tr, BPdtr, tr, turn. [13 sts]
Row 6 Ch2, FPdtr, tr, ch3, skip ch-sp, (FPdtr, tr, FPdtr) around FPdtr2tog, ch3, skip ch-sp, tr, FPdtr, tr, turn. [15 sts]
Row 7 Ch2, BPdtr, tr, ch1, skip ch-sp, BPdtr, 3tr in next st, BPdtr, ch1, skip ch-sp, tr, BPdtr, tr, turn. [13 sts]
Row 8 Ch2, FPdtr, tr, skip ch-sp, FPdtr, 2tr in next st, tr, 2tr in next st, FPdtr, skip ch-sp, tr, FPdtr, tr, turn. [13 sts]
Cont in Cable Patt as described in prev 6 rows for 27 (27: 33: 33: 39) more rows (last row is as Row 5), turn.
Final row (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st here), 3dc, 3dc in ch-sp, FPdc around FPdtr2tog, 3dc in ch-sp, 3dc. [13 sts]
Fasten off.
FRONT CLIMBING CABLE INSERT
As Back Insert to end of Row 29 (29: 35: 35: 41), turn.
Final row (RS) As Back Insert.
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP FRONT AND BACK BODY
The first seam will join the Front Cable Insert to the central edge of the Right Front piece. You will begin with an edging worked on the WS of the Cable Insert from bottom to top and cont with an edging on WS of Right Front edge from top to bottom, before changing hook and yarn to work a Ripple Seam to join these two pieces. Instructions are as follows:
*With a 5mm hook and Yarn B, join on WS of Lace Insert by working 1htr in fdc row at hemline. Cont edging with 2htr in each row-end and 1htr in final dc row, inserting hook under 2 loops of the side of the row-end sts. Ch1 to change direction (does not count as st), then work on WS of Right Front of Main Fabric with 1htr in each row-end, and 1htr in fdc row-end, inserting hook under 2 loops of each row-end as before.
[58 (58: 70: 70: 82) htr on each edge]
Ch1 to change direction, change to Yarn A and a 4.5mm hook and cont with Ripple Seam as follows:
RIPPLE SEAM
Hold two Front pieces WS tog, and work on the RS. (Ss through both sts, ch1) in each pair of htr across, inserting hook through the middle of the three loops only for each htr pair. This leaves a ridge of an unworked loop on both WS and RS of the garment, and the (ss, ch1) makes a prominent rippled ridge on RS of garment. [58 (58: 70: 70: 82) reps of (ss, ch1)]
Fasten off.
Rep all from * with Back Cable Insert and Left Back piece. [70 (70: 82: 82: 94) htr on each edge, and 70 (70: 82: 82: 94) reps of (ss, ch1) for seams]
Join Left Front to the Front Cable Insert in the same way, working the edging on the WS of the Main Fabric first, followed by the edging on the Insert. Finally, join Right Back to Back Cable Insert.
NECKLINE EDGE
With a 5mm hook, join Yarn A without a starting loop (see Notes) to WS of Right Shoulder Seam and work around WS neckline as follows:
Round 1 (WS) Htr in seam, 1htr in each row-end across the 12 neckline shaping rows, htr in next 6 htr sts, htr in edging row, htr in Ripple Seam, htr in edging row, 14htr across Cable Insert, htr in edging row, htr in Ripple Seam, htr in edging row, htr b3l in next 6 htr sts, 1htr in each row-end across the 12 neckline shaping rows, htr in Shoulder Seam, htr in st at
base of last Seam st, htr in next 12 sts, htr in edging row, htr in end Ripple Seam, htr in edging row, 14htr across Cable Insert, htr in edging row, htr in Ripple Seam, htr in edging row, htr b3l across next 12 sts, htr in st at base of last Seam st, ss to beg htr, turn. [104 htr]
Round 2 (RS) Ch1, (3dc, dc2tog) 20 times, 4dc, ss to beg dc, change to Yarn B on last yrh of ss. [84 dc]
Round 3 Ch1, htr in each st around, ss to beg htr, turn.
Round 4 Ch1, (3dc, dc2tog) 16 times, 4dc, ss to beg dc, turn. [68 dc]
Round 5 As Round 3, turn.
Round 6 Ch1, (6dc, dc2tog) 8 times, 4dc, ss to beg dc, turn. [60 dc]
Round 7 As Round 3, turn.
Round 8 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc, do not turn, change to 4.5mm hook.
Round 9 Ch1, (ss, ch1) in each dc around.
Fasten off, sew in tail to hide join.
With a 4.5mm hook, join Yarn B without a starting loop to RS around post of dc at Right Shoulder of Round 2. Working down front neckline and around, (ss, ch1) around the post of each dc (hold working yarn at RS of garment) to make decorative ridge around lower neckline. Fasten off, sew in tail to hide join.
With a 4.5mm hook and Yarn B, rep (ss, ch1) technique, working around the lower post of each htr of Round 1 around neckline. Fasten off, sew in tail to hide join.
LEFT SLEEVE
Round 1 (WS) With a 5mm hook, join Yarn A without a starting loop to WS end of Row 45 (41: 49: 49: 57) Back Strip (next to Marker), edge across WS of shoulder rows between markers, working 1htr in each row-end and 1htr in end of shoulder seam, ss to beg htr, turn.
[53 (61: 69: 69: 77) htr]
Round 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st here and throughout Sleeves), dc f3l around, ss to first st, turn.
Round 3 Ch1, htr in each st around, ss to beg htr, turn.
Round 4 Ch1, dc b3l around, ss to first dc, turn.
Round 5 As Round 3, turn.
Cont in rounds of Main Fabric Patt as described in prev 4 rounds to end Round 55 (all sizes) except for following rounds:
Sizes 8-10, 12-14: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42 and 48, Sizes 16-18, 20-22: 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46 and 50,
Size 24-26: 6, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50 and 54, which will be a Sleeve Dec Round as follows:
Sleeve dec round (Work the dc sts f3l or b3l as appropriate according to Main Fabric Patt sequence) Ch1, 2dc, dc2tog, dc around to last 4 sts, dc2tog, 2dc, ss to beg dc, turn. [Sleeve finishes with 37 (45: 49: 49: 51) htr] Change to Yarn B in yrh of ss at end final Sleeve round, turn, cont with Cuff.
CUFF
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, (3dc, dc2tog) 7 (9: 9: 9: 10) times, 2 (0: 4: 4: 1) dc, ss to beg dc, turn.
[30 (36: 40: 40: 41) dc]
Round 2 (WS) Ch1, htr in each st around, ss to beg htr, turn.
Round 3 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc, turn.
Round 4 As Round 2, turn.
Round 5 As Round 3, turn.
Round 6 As Round 2, turn.
Round 7 As Round 3, do not turn.
Round 8 (RS) Ch1, (ss, ch1) in each dc around.
Fasten off, sew in tail to hide join.
With a 4.5mm hook and Yarn B, rep (ss, ch1) technique working around the lower post of each htr of final Sleeve round at the base of each Cuff.
Fasten off, sew in tail to hide join.
RIGHT SLEEVE AND CUFF
Rep instructions for Left Sleeve and Cuff.
TO SEW SIDE SEAMS
With tapestry needle and yarn length cut to 2.5 times the length of you seam, use mattress stitch to sew side seams closed, matching up end rows as you go.
HEMLINE
With a 5mm hook, join Yarn B without a starting loop at lower end of a side seam.
Round 1 (WS) *Htr in each foundation ch across Main Fabric Strip, htr in edging row, htr in Ripple Seam, htr in edging row, htr in each foundation ch across Cable Insert, htr in edging row, htr in Ripple Seam, htr in edging row, htr in each foundation ch across main Fabric Strip; rep from * once more, ss to beg htr, turn.
[154 (170: 186: 202: 218) htr]
Round 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc, turn.
Round 3 Ch1, htr in each st around, ss to beg htr, turn.
Round 4 Ch1, (6dc, dc2tog) 19 (21: 23: 25: 27) times around, 2dc, ss to beg dc, turn.
[135 (149: 163: 177: 191) dc]
Round 5 As Round 3, turn.
Round 6 Ch1, dc in each st around, ss to beg dc, turn.
Cont in patt as described in prev 2 rounds for 4 (4: 6: 6: 8) more rounds, do not turn at end last round, change to 4.5mm hook.
Final round (RS) Ch1, (ss, ch1) in each dc around.
Fasten off, sew tail to hide join.
TO FINISH
Weave in ends, block and lay flat to dry to schematic measurements. Steam block in sections for best drape.