Summertime doll
Trips to the beach and rainy days in won’t be complete without Louise Crowther’s sunny dress-up doll!
When you think back to your childhood days, is there a special cuddly toy that stands out as a treasured favourite? Marysol is sure to be that for the little ones in your life! Knitted in a glossy cotton, ideal for toys like this, and with quick and easy stitches used throughout, you’ll be casting off this project before you know it. Everything is knitted flat as well, making it an easy project to take on the go with you. Once you’ve finished knitting all the parts, you will find clear step-by-step instructions on how to put them all together – complete with images for the trickier parts (pages 51 and 52). Note Cast on using the long-tail method unless otherwise indicated. Where possible, leave long tails when you cast on and off and use these for sewing up.
HEAD
Note Starts at the neck.
Cast on 13 sts using 2 mm needles and Yarn A.
Rows 1 and 3 (WS) Purl.
Row 2 (RS) *K1, M1; rep from * to last st, K1. [25 sts]
Row 4 K3, (K1, M1) 7 times, K4, (K1, M1) 7 times, K4. [39 sts]
Rows 5-7 Work in st st for 3 rows.
Row 8 K3, (K3, M1) 4 times, K6, (K3, M1) 4 times, K6. [47 sts]
Join in Yarn B.
Row 9 P16B, P15A, P16B.
Row 10 K16B, K15A, K16B.
Row 11 P15B, P17A, P15B.
Row 12 K15B, K17A, K15B.
Rep Rows 11 and 12 twice more, then work Row 11 again.
Row 18 K16B, K15A, K16B.
Row 19 P19B, P2A, P1B, P2A, P1B, P3A, K19B.
Row 20 K20B, K1A, K26B.
Continue in Yarn B.
Work 11 rows in st st, beg with a P row.
Row 32 K8, k2tog, K4, ssk, K15, k2tog, K4, ssk, K8. [43 sts]
Row 33 Purl.
Row 34 K8, k2tog, K2, ssk, K15, k2tog, K2, ssk, K8. [39 sts]
Row 35 Purl.
Row 36 K8, k2tog, ssk, K15, k2tog, ssk, K8. [35 sts]
Break yarn, transfer the sts onto a stitch holder.
BODY
Note Starts at neck.
Cast on 9 sts using 2 mm needles and Yarn A.
Rows 1, 3 and 5 (WS) Purl. Row 2 K1, *K1, M1; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. [15 sts]
Row 4 K2, (K1, M1) 3 times, K4, (K1, M1) 3 times, K3. [21 sts]
Row 6 K3, (K1, M1) 4 times, K6, (K1, M1) 4 times, K4. [29 sts]
Rows 7-9 Work in st st for 3 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 10 K4, (K1, M1) 6 times, K8, (K1, M1) 6 times, K5. [41 sts]
Rows 11-15 Work in st st for 5 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 16 K3, (K3, M1) 4 times, K8, (K3, M1) 4 times, K6. [49 sts]
Rows 17-27 Work in st st for 11 rows, beg with a P row.
BIKINI BOTTOMS
Note Starting with Yarn E, the Knickers are worked in a stripe pattern of 2 rows in Yarn E and 2 rows in Yarn C, across the 49 sts on your needle.
Rows 28-29 Knit.
Rows 30-43 Work in st st for 14 rows, beg with a K row.
Cast off using Yarn E.
ARMS
(MAKE 2)
Cast on 12 sts using 2 mm needles and Yarn A.
Rows 1-3 Work in st st for 3 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 4 Cast on 3 sts using knit cast-on method, K to end. [15 sts]
Row 5 Cast on 3 sts using purl cast-on method, P to end. [18 sts]
Rows 6-7 Work in st st for 2 rows, beg with a K row.
Row 8 Ssk, K14, k2tog. [16 sts]
Rows 9, 11, 49, 51, 53 and 55 Purl.
Row 10 Ssk, K12, k2tog. [14 sts]
Row 12 Ssk, K10, k2tog. [12 sts]
Rows 13-47 Work in st st for 35 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 48 Ssk, K8, k2tog. [10 sts]
Row 50 Ssk, K6, k2tog. [8 sts]
Row 52 Ssk, K4, k2tog. [6 sts]
Row 54 Ssk, K2, k2tog. [4 sts]
Cast off.
LEGS
(MAKE 2)
Cast on 16 sts using 2 mm needles and Yarn A.
Note Starts at the top of the Leg.
Rows 1-55 Work in st st for 55 rows, beg with a P row.
FOOT
Row 56 Cast off 5 sts, K to end. [11 sts] Row 57 Cast off 5 sts purlwise, P to end. [6 sts]
Rows 58-75 Work in st st for 18 rows, beg with a K row.
Cast off row Ssk, K2, k2tog (cast off all sts as you work them).
SHOES
(MAKE 2)
Cast on 12 sts using 2 mm needles and Yarn F.
Row 1 and every foll alt row Purl.
Row 2 K1, M1, K3, (K1, M1) 3 times, K4, M1, K1. [17 sts]
Row 4 *(K1, M1) twice, K3, (K1, M1) twice, K1*, K1; rep from * to * once more. [25 sts] Row 6 *(K2, M1) twice, K2, (K2, M1) twice, K2*, K1; rep from * to * once more. [33 sts] Row 8 *(K3, M1) twice, K1, (K3, M1) twice, K3*, K1; rep from * to * once more. [41 sts] Rows 9-13 Work in st st for 5 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 14 K15, ssk, K7, k2tog, K15. [39 sts] Row 16 K15, ssk, K5, k2tog, K15. [37 sts] Cast off row K15, ssk, K3, k2tog, K15 (Cast off all sts as you work them).
SHOE STRAPS
(MAKE 2)
Cast on 10 sts using 2 mm needles and Yarn F.
Row 1 (WS) K7, P3.
Row 2 K3, turn.
Row 3 P3.
Cast off knitwise.
DRESS BOTTOM FRILL
Cast on 109 sts using 3mm needles and Yarn D.
Row 1 (WS) Knit.
Rows 2-10 Work in st st for 9 rows, beg with a K row.
Row 11 *P1, p2tog; rep from * to last st, K1. [73 sts]
Rows 12-14 Work in st st for 3 rows, beg with a K row.
Row 15 Purl to end using a 2 mm needle, break off yarn and leave sts on the needle. Set this needle aside for now.
TOP FRILL
Cast on 109 sts using 3mm needles and Yarn B.
Row 1 (WS) Knit.
Rows 2-8 Work in st st for 7 rows, beg with a K row.
Row 9 *P1, p2tog; rep from * to last st, K1. [73 sts]
Break off Yarn B.
Change to Yarn C.
Row 10 With the RS facing you, place the needle holding the Bottom Frill sts (back needle) behind the one holding the Top Frill sts (front needle). *Place RH needle through the front loop of the first stitch on the front and the back needle and knit these two sts together; rep from * to end of row.
Row 11 Knit.
Rows 12-15 Work in st st for 4 rows, beg with a K row.
Row 16 K16, k2tog, ssk, K33, k2tog, ssk, K to end. [69 sts] Rows 17-21 Work in st st for 5 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 22 K15, k2tog, ssk, K31, k2tog, ssk, K to end. [65 sts]
Rows 23-27 Work in st st for 5 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 28 K14, k2tog, ssk, K29, k2tog, ssk, K to end. [61 sts]
Rows 29-33 Work in st st for 5 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 34 K13, k2tog, ssk, K27, k2tog, ssk, K to end. [57 sts]
Row 35 Purl.
Row 36 K27, s2kpo, K to end. [55 sts] Row 37 K2, P24, K3, P24, K2.
Row 38 K12, k2tog, ssk, K23, k2tog, ssk, K to end. [51 sts]
Row 39 K2, P22, K3, P22, K2.
Note The next 9 rows form the Armholes and are worked in three separate parts.
PART 1 – LEFT BACK
Note This is worked over the first 13 sts only, the remaining sts can be left on the needle until required.
Row 40 K10, k2tog, K1. [12 sts]
Rows 41, 43, 45 and 47 P to last 2 sts, K2. Row 42 K9, k2tog, K1. [11 sts]
Row 44 K8, k2tog, K1. [10 sts]
Row 46 K7, k2tog, K1. [9 sts]
Row 48 K6, k2tog, K1. [8 sts]
Break off yarn and leave these 8 sts on the RH needle.
PART 2 – FRONT
Note This is worked over the next 25 sts on LH needle, the remaining sts can be left on the needle until required. Rejoin Yarn C.
Row 40 K1, ssk, K19, k2tog, K1. [23 sts] Row 41 P10, K3, P10.
Row 42 K1, ssk, K17, k2tog, K1. [21 sts] Row 43 P9, K3, P9.
Row 44 K1, ssk, K15, k2tog, K1. [19 sts] Row 45 P8, K3, P8.
Row 46 K1, ssk, K13, k2tog, K1. [17 sts] Row 47 P7, K3, P7.
Row 48 K1, ssk, K11, k2tog, K1. [15 sts] Break off yarn and leave these 15 sts on the RH needle.
PART 3 – RIGHT BACK
Note This is worked over the remaining 13 sts on LH needle.
Rejoin Yarn C.
Row 40 K1, ssk, K10. [12 sts]
Rows 41, 43, 45 and 47 K2, P to end. Row 42 K1, ssk, K9. [11 sts]
Row 44 K1, ssk, K8. [10 sts]
Row 46 K1, ssk, K7. [9 sts]
Row 48 (buttonhole row) K1, ssk, K3, ssk, yo, K1. [8 sts]
Note Do NOT break off yarn, you are now going to work across all three sections in the next row.
Row 49 K2, P5, ssp, P5, K3, P5, p2tog, P5, K2. [29 sts]
Cast off.
SHRUG
Note The Shrug is worked from the top-down in one piece.
Cast on 23 sts using 3mm needles and Yarn E.
Row 1 (WS) K6, PM, K2, PM, K8, PM, K2, PM, K5.
Row 2 (buttonhole row) K1, yo, ssk, (K to SM, M1R, sl SM, K1, M1L) 4 times, K to end. [31 sts]
Row 3 K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 4 K2, ssk, (K to SM, M1R, sl SM, K1, M1L) 4 times, K to last 4 sts, k2tog,
K2. [37 sts]
Rows 5-16 Rep last 2 rows, 6 more times. [73 sts]
Row 17 K2, P5, K17, P25, K17, P5, K2. Row 18 K2, ssk, K3, cast off 17 sts, K until there are 25 sts on the RH needle after the cast-off, cast off 17 sts, K until there are 3 sts on the RH needle after the cast-off, k2tog, K2. [37 sts]
Row 19 K2, P3, (pfb) twice, P23, (pfb) twice, P3, K2. [41 sts]
Row 20 K2, ssk, K to last 4 sts, k2tog, K2. [39 sts]
Row 21 Knit.
Cast off.
BIKINI TOP
Note Starting with Yarn E, the Bikini Top is worked in a stripe pattern of 2 rows in Yarn E and 2 rows in Yarn C throughout. Cast on 50 sts using 3mm needles and Yarn E.
Row 1 (buttonhole row) (WS) K2tog, yo,
K to end.
Row 2 Cast off 16 sts, K until there are 18 sts after cast-off, cast off 16 sts. [18 sts] Break off yarn and rejoin, ready to work a WS row.
Rows 3, 5, 7 and 9 Purl.
Rows 4, 6, 8 and 10 K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. [10 sts after all decs] Row 11 Using Yarn E, P2 then place these 2 sts onto a stitch holder or safety pin, cast off 8 sts knitwise, P2.
Transfer the last 2 sts onto a DPN and work a 15.5cm long i-cord as follows:
*Knit 2 sts, slide to other end of DPN without turning work; rep from * until i-cord measures 15.5cm.
Make a second 15.5cm-long i-cord using the 2 sts on the stitch holder.
BEACH BAG
Cast on 36 sts using 3mm needles and Yarn F.
Row 1 (WS) Purl.
Row 2 *(K1, M1) twice, K13, (K1, M1) twice, K1; rep from * to end. [44 sts] Rows 3-4 Purl.
Rows 5-8 Work in st st for 4 rows, beg with a P row.
Row 9 *P1, pfb, P18, pfb, P1; rep from * to end. [48 sts]
Row 10 K1, *yo, K2, pass the yo st over the 2 knit sts; rep from * to last st, K1. Row 11 Purl.
Rows 12-22 Rep last 2 rows, 5 more times, then work Row 10 once more. Row 23 Knit.
Row 24 K9, cast off 6 sts, K until there are 18 sts after the cast-off, cast off
6 sts, K to end. [36 sts]
Row 25 K8, *kfb, pass knitted front loop st over knitted back loop st and pull yarn tight, turn, cast on 30 sts using the knit cast-on method, turn, slip last cast-on st back onto LH needle, k2tog and pull yarn tight*, K16, rep from * to *, K to end. [94 sts]
Cast off.
TO MAKE UP
Notes Where possible use the cast-on/ cast-off tails for sewing up. Tie off or weave in any other loose ends as you go. Use a tapestry needle and mattress stitch (unless otherwise indicated) for sewing up seams. Use a sewing needle and
thread to attach buttons.
Body Starting at the bottom, sew up the back edges of the Body, making sure to match up any colour changes.
Leave an opening at the neck big enough to push the stuffing in, approx 2.5cm. With the back seam central to the doll’s back, sew together the bottom edges of the Body, stitching through the outside loops of the cast-off sts.
Stuff firmly and close up the neck seam, bury loose ends inside the Body.
Legs and Shoes – Right Sew the top of the Shoe (this is the cast-off edge) to the base of the Leg and around the Foot, using mattress stitch on the Leg and Foot, but only sew through the second row of back loops on the Shoe (see photos A and B below). Make sure the end of the Foot is centred between the decreases at the front of the Shoe. Sew the narrow end of the Shoe Strap onto left edge of Shoe, pull ends through to inside and secure.
Stitch a button onto the opposite end of the Strap, and secure it to the Shoe. Sew the bottom edges of the Shoe together, starting at the toe and working through to the ankle. Then stuff the Foot firmly.
Sew the Leg edges together, stuffing as you go. Only lightly stuff the very top part of the Legs to enable them to move into a sitting position. Legs and Shoes – left Make up in the same way as the Right Leg and Shoe, but sew the Strap onto the right edge of the Shoe instead of the left.
Both Legs and Shoes Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, making sure buttons are on the outer edges.
Arms Using a tapestry needle thread the yarn through the cast-on sts at the start of the hand and draw up.
Sew the side edges together, stuffing the hand and Arm firmly as you go, leaving the tapered top of the Arm open. Sew the tapered edges of the Arm to the top of the Body, stuffing lightly as you go.
Head – Face Take a small circle of white felt and place it at the back of the work, behind where you plan to embroider the first eye.
Using the black yarn, place a couple of small sts to form the eye and knot the black thread securely at the back of the work, trim off the excess (see photos C and D). Repeat for second eye. Embroider mouth in same way as eyes.
Head – Top edge The top edges of the Head are joined using Kitchener stitch (grafting), but the middle 2 sts at the back of the Head are worked together as one.
Step 1 Transfer the first 9 sts onto a DPN, the middle 17 sts onto second DPN and the last 9 sts onto opposite end of first DPN (see photos E and F).
Step 2 Thread a tapestry needle with a length of Yarn B. Hold the work with the sts parallel in your left hand. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch
on the front needle as if to purl (see photo G below). Pull the yarn through, leaving a tail that you will weave in later. Leave the stitch on the front needle. Step 3 Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit (see photo H), pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the back needle.
Step 4 Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through, removing the stitch from the front needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the front needle. Step 5 Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through, removing the stitch from the back needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the back needle. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until you have
11 sts left on the back needle and 9 sts left on the front needle.
Step 6 Insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through, removing the stitch from the back needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the next two sts together on the back needle as if to knit (see photo I), pull the yarn through, leaving these two sts on the back needle.
Repeat Step 4.
Step 7 Insert the tapestry needle through the first two sts together on the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through, removing the two sts from the back needle (see photo J). Insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the back needle.
Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until all sts have been worked.
Starting at one end, neaten up tension on worked sts and thread both loose ends through to the back of the work and weave in.
Starting at the top, join the back edges of the Head together, leaving a big enough gap at neck to push stuffing through.
Stuff and close the gap, drawing up the ends before sewing to the top of the Body.
Plaits Wrap Yarn B around a small piece of card (roughly 9cm wide) 18 times. Thread a 15cm length of yarn through the top of the loops and tie in a secure knot. Cut yarn through the bottom of the loops.
Divide into three equal sets of strands and plait.
Wrap a short length of yarn around the bottom of the plait and tie in a secure knot. Using your tapestry needle, thread the two loose ends back through the middle of the plait to hide. Trim the uneven loose ends of the bottom of the plait to neaten up.
Using the ends of the yarn used to secure the top loops of the plait, sew plaits into place on either side of Head and finish with a small piece of ribbon.
Dress Block the Dress before making up. Start by sewing three buttons down the centre-front garter stitch panel at the top of the Dress front, and then sew a button in place at the top of the left back, matching it up with the buttonhole. Starting at the bottom of the Dress, sew up the centre-back seam of the Bottom Frill and main body of Dress, stopping about 4cm from the top edge, then sew up the Top Frill seam.
Shrug Block the Shrug, then sew a button in place on the front buttonband, matching it up with buttonhole.
Bikini Top Block the Bikini Top, then sew a button in place at the end of the left strap, matching it up with the buttonhole.
Beach Bag Sew up the bottom edges of the Beach Bag, then starting at the top and working down, sew the side edges of the Beach Bag together. Gently steam-block the Beach Bag and shape whilst still damp.