Sock success – cuffs!
In this three-part series we take the fear out of sock knitting. Concentrating on separate sock elements one at a time, this issue we’re all about cuffs…
Part one of our sock masterclass…
Sock projects are perfect for knitters who want to move beyond knit and purl – the ultimate one-ball project, they use a small number of stitches but pack a lot of techniques into a tiny parcel, making them interesting and highly portable. Don’t forget gorgeous sock yarn either – the ranges available to you these days are huge and so inspirational! But, despite their obvious temptations, many knitters encounter issues with socks, such as too-tight cuffs, holey heel turns or lumpy toes. We’re here to help with our three-part sock session, taking the fear out of footwear, unravelling those worrisome complications and giving you the skills to make the perfect pair every time.
WHAT NEEDLES SHOULD I USE?
Socks are worked in the round to avoid any uncomfortable seams; most knitters use either a very short circular needle or double-pointed needles. These come in sets of four or five short needles that have a point at both ends, hence the name. The type of material your needles are made from is a matter of personal preference. Some knitters (particularly those prone to tight tension) like to use metal needles as these are quite slippery, allowing snug stitches to slide along easily. Knitters with looser tension may prefer the ‘stickiness’ of bamboo or birch. It’s worth experimenting by knitting a swatch using your needles before you embark on a pair of socks, because if you’re having trouble with stitches that are too tight or too loose, it’ll show up easily thanks to the laser-sharp stitch definition of most sock yarn.
If you’re an old hand at knitting in the round, socks are a good opportunity to use the Magic Loop technique, with a circular needle either 80 or 100cm long. You can find a breakdown of how to work Magic Loop online at The Yarn Loop at www.theyarnloop.com/2010/10/magicloop. Whichever method you choose, do make sure you get the correct tension for your pattern. Socks use 4ply yarn but are knitted to a tighter tension than standard 4ply. You’re aiming for a dense, fairly firm fabric, to give the socks structure and make them a snug fit. Loosely knitted socks will wear out more quickly and won’t fit as well.
DO I NEED ANY OTHER TOOLS?
In addition to your needles you’ll need stitch markers, and a tapestry needle for closing the toe and weaving in ends. You may also like to use blockers for your socks when they’re finished, but these aren’t essential. If you’re working with double-pointed needles you can use the ends of each needle as a ‘marker’ instead of stitch markers, but you might want to move the stitches around the needles to prevent ladders, so it’s still worth having some to hand.
WHAT YARN SHOULD I USE?
Choosing a yarn that has extra strength and a high twist will mean that your socks are less likely to wear out. If you’re making your first pair, look for a good commercial sock yarn like Opal or Regia, which has a dense spin, comes in a huge variety of colours and is extremely hard wearing. If you’re tempted by hand dyed sock yarn, read the ball band or check with the supplier to find out whether you need to hand wash it. It’s a good idea to choose a yarn that contains 25% nylon, as this will give it extra strength and reduce the likelihood of holes.
CASTING ON
Choose a stretchy cast on for your socks. A long-tail or thumb cast on is more elastic than a cable one. A tubular cast on gives a beautiful finish, but the tension can be hard to control and it takes several steps to complete.
Although not a basic cast on, the twisted German cast on (also known as old Norwegian or elastic long tail) has found favour with sock knitters recently and it’s easy to see why (try it here: bitly/2t9mlQg). It’s a variation of the long-tail cast on, but it’s both stretchier and neater than a standard long-tail cast on. It’s also easier to join to work in the round, as the stitches are completely secured (the last stitch of a standard long-tail cast on can unravel as you try to join it). If you’re a beginner sock knitter, go with a simple, familiar cast on that you join in the round by working the first and last cast-on stitch together (making sure to add an extra stitch to your cast on beforehand). It can be easier to purl the first and last stitch together (rather than knitting them together) and make this the first purl stitch in a 2x2 rib or 1x1 rib cuff.
If you’re using double-pointed needles, it can be easier to cast on all your stitches onto one needle and then ‘knit them off’ (working your rib pattern), working with a new needle each time you’ve worked a third of your stitches, until you have your stitches across three needles and can join them to continue in the round.
To take this further, working a row or two straight in your chosen rib pattern before joining will make it less likely that you accidentally twist your stitches, and you can use your yarn tail from the cast on to sew up any gap later. For the neatest finish, join your first and last stitch immediately after you cast off.