P R O T I P S:

~1~

ENGINE – A strong rotating assembly and valvetrain are essential, as is a thorough maintenance regime. Regular oil and filter changes and bearing inspections can save big bucks in the long run.

~2~

INDUCTION – Blowers are still king, but big-revving naturally aspirated engines certainly have their place in the burnout landscape. In either case, a bit of fruit through the bonnet never goes astray!

~3~

DRIVELINE – Heat kills transmissions, so a quality transmission cooler with an electric fan is a wise investment. An automatic transmission with a manual valvebody is favourable, as is a locked diff with strong axles.

~4~

TYRES – A top-level burnout car can lay a brand-new set of tyres to waste in a minute flat, so it’s best to start out with plenty of tread. Experiment with rear tyre sizes, compounds and pressures to find out what works best for your car.

~5~

BODYWORK – A set of tubs and a shortened diff will help keep your bodywork out of harm’s way from flapping belts. Late-model cars with plastic bumpers are more susceptible to damage than steel-bumpered cars.

~6~

BRAKES – Plenty of dedicated skid cars don’t run rear brakes at all. If you do have rear brakes fitted, use a line locker or similar device to isolate your rear brakes while you skid.

~7~

GAUGES – Stay in the loop with what’s happening under your bonnet. Water temperature, transmission temperature and oil pressure gauges are all advisable, and a tacho with a shift-light isn’t a bad idea, either.

~8~

CHASSIS – In modern-day skid comps, drivers are favouring lighter, shorter-wheelbase cars that they can hurl around the pad with reckless abandon – did someone say LYNCHY?