THREE SHEEP ABREAST

BEALACH NA BA: THE ROAD TO NOWHERE

Wester Ross, the Scottish Highlands. I see why George R.R. Martin was inspired by this part of the world to create the fictional land of Westeros. It is harsh and unforgiving but it is also magical and it inspires anyone who lays eyes on it to rethink their dubiety in fairies, dragons and giants.

I was taking an unplanned drive through the Highlands and found myself standing at the Bealach Na Ba

(Bee-al-uch-nu-bah) viewpoint, overlooking the Applecross Peninsula.

This road that I was on used to be the only road connecting my destination to the rest of Scotland, until the 20th century came around. It is a winding mountain road with sharp hairpin bends, no guardrails and more beauty than an art critic will see in their lifetime. The signs declaring “narrow road” and “no more than three sheep abreast” are not an exaggeration. A single small car or two motorcycles will fit snugly on this road. No more.

At the end of this road lies a single street comprising a couple of houses, an inn and a deserted gas station. Plus the breathtaking Applecross Bay. This street is, in fact, a town and is called Shore Street, or “The Street” by locals.

This town is isolated. Mobile reception ranges from thin to non-existent, the sounds of engines, alarms and bustling people are a myth and everyone truly knows everyone. At night, the pub is packed to the rafters with locals and a handful of enchanted travellers. During the day, people fish for langoustines, herring and creel. There is not much to do but relax. Having a chat with locals and imagining a life this quiet, this stress-free, was my favourite activity.

For the adventure-hungry, the surrounding mountains are what you’ll need for an unforgettable hike or exhilarating mountain-biking session.

Salmon fishing in the lochs around the peninsula is also a big favourite. The Bealach Na Be offers motorcycling enthusiasts the opportunity to feel the thrill of the ride and astounds anyone with its arresting views of emerald glens and luminous, dark-blue lochs.

But the true character of this place is its isolation. It’s absolute peace.

I often think back to my time on the Bealach and yearn to again take that road to nowhere. Perhaps, next time, I’ll stay – and try my hand at writing.