Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious 100 -

245 HIGH ST, NORTH­COTE 9489 4609 ESTELLEBYS­P.COM Don’t let the art­fully lit, oh-so-mel­bourne, sleek black-and-slate sur­rounds fool you. Be­tween an open­ing mouth­ful of wal­laby so smoky it could have hopped through a bush­fire on its way to the plate, to a de­con­structed pavlova with ki­wiber­ries, a meal at Scott Pick­ett’s flag­ship fine diner is clever, re­fined, con­sid­ered, but most of all, fun.

That’s not to say ev­ery mo­ment, ev­ery mouth­ful hasn’t been care­fully chore­ographed. Un­der head chef Steve Nairn’s guid­ing hand, a new­found love of veg­eta­bles – but­tery baby corn smoked over bin­chotan, and tiny potato pearls with pops of salmon roe – bright­ens the pan-fried sweet­breads that re­main a sta­ple on a Pick­ett menu.

Blush­ing Mace­don duck comes com­plete with a gra­nola of nuts and a rain­bow of beet­roots, with a tart of its heart served along­side; while lo­cal Maidenii ver­mouth cre­ates an in­spired sauce for cured, smoked and pan-fried rock­ling.

A wine list of depth with de­li­cious mid-range drink­ing (and se­ri­ous big hit­ters) served by one of the city’s best som­me­liers in James Dos­san com­pletes a pic­ture of Mel­bourne din­ing on North­cote’s High Street that’s in ul­tra-hd. ■ Must-eat dish Baby corn ■ Cui­sine Con­tem­po­rary ■ Chefs Scott Pick­ett & Steve Nairn ■ Price $$$$ ■ Book­ings Yes ■ Open Din­ner Tue-sat ■ In­sta­gram @estellebys­p

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