KING ST, DAYLESFORD 5348 3329 LAKEHOUSE.COM.AU If Mother Nature had her own pantry, it would be the Lake House.
For 33 years, this Daylesford restaurant and getaway – under the expert guiding hand of founder and culinary director Alla Wolf-tasker – has been nurturing specialist provedores in central Victoria and showcasing their bounty on menus that seem almost hardwired to the seasons.
A visit to Lake House in early spring saw head chef David Green sending out a charred onion broth heady with truffle comte, dry-aged duck nestling with beetroot, smoked potato and preserved elderberry, and peak-condition vegetables (chestnuts, pumpkin, kale and artichokes) tucked into butter pastry with a goat’s curd fondue.
Green has a special affinity for fish, netting Murray cod, trout, smoked eel and freshwater crustaceans for a delicate entree, and elevating pearl-white black kingfish (cobia) with an Asian-scented veal broth and a latticed cod cracker. Stunning.
Then there’s ‘the apple’, a gorgeous dessert where a sphere of eggshell-fine white chocolate on Granny Smith granita hides jellied treats. The service is seamless, while the cellar is one of rare depth and complexity. Some visitors favour Lake House to savour the view, but it is after sundown when this dining room truly twinkles, toasty light bouncing off the gleaming surfaces and jazz tunes tinkling in the background like water. ■ Must-eat dish Black king fish, celeriac, cod cracker ■ Cuisine Contemporary ■ Chefs Alla Wolf-tasker & David Green ■ Price $$$ ■ Bookings Yes ■ Open Lunch & dinner daily ■ Instagram @lakehousedaylesford