Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious 100 -

KING ST, DAYLESFORD 5348 3329 LAKEHOUSE.COM.AU If Mother Na­ture had her own pantry, it would be the Lake House.

For 33 years, this Daylesford restau­rant and get­away – un­der the ex­pert guid­ing hand of founder and culi­nary direc­tor Alla Wolf-tasker – has been nur­tur­ing spe­cial­ist prove­dores in cen­tral Victoria and show­cas­ing their bounty on menus that seem al­most hard­wired to the sea­sons.

A visit to Lake House in early spring saw head chef David Green send­ing out a charred onion broth heady with truf­fle comte, dry-aged duck nestling with beet­root, smoked potato and pre­served el­der­berry, and peak-con­di­tion veg­eta­bles (chest­nuts, pump­kin, kale and ar­ti­chokes) tucked into but­ter pas­try with a goat’s curd fon­due.

Green has a spe­cial affin­ity for fish, net­ting Mur­ray cod, trout, smoked eel and fresh­wa­ter crus­taceans for a del­i­cate en­tree, and el­e­vat­ing pearl-white black king­fish (co­bia) with an Asian-scented veal broth and a lat­ticed cod cracker. Stun­ning.

Then there’s ‘the ap­ple’, a gor­geous dessert where a sphere of eggshell-fine white choco­late on Granny Smith granita hides jel­lied treats. The ser­vice is seam­less, while the cel­lar is one of rare depth and com­plex­ity. Some vis­i­tors favour Lake House to savour the view, but it is af­ter sun­down when this din­ing room truly twin­kles, toasty light bounc­ing off the gleam­ing sur­faces and jazz tunes tin­kling in the back­ground like wa­ter. ■ Must-eat dish Black king fish, cele­riac, cod cracker ■ Cui­sine Con­tem­po­rary ■ Chefs Alla Wolf-tasker & David Green ■ Price $$$ ■ Book­ings Yes ■ Open Lunch & din­ner daily ■ In­sta­gram @lake­house­dayles­ford

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