Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious 100 -

226 COVEN­TRY ST, SOUTH MEL­BOURNE 9690 0185 RESTAURANT­LUME.COM For­tune favours the bold at Shaun Quade’s fan­tas­ti­cal fine diner. Lûmé is dif­fer­ent from the first in­ter­ac­tion, from pre­pay­ing your meal when book­ing to the unas­sum­ing frontage open­ing to a deep peach-coloured din­ing room.

Cu­ri­ous din­ers will love Quade’s dishes, up to 16 in a sit­ting show­cas­ing his in­tri­cate, play­ful cook­ing. The Road menu opens with sea corn taco, its hero creamy crab cus­tard mas­querad­ing as baby corn, and kicks on to petals of bar­be­cued abalone with dry-aged emu in a kombu broth, and the sig­na­ture ‘pearl on the ocean floor’ evok­ing sea­side hol­i­days with its raw oyster, mus­sel foam and sea suc­cu­lents. Later, chewy ‘musk sticks’ of fer­mented pas­sion­fruit cleanse the palate, while olive oil ice cream de­liv­ers a lush wal­lop.

In­ter­est­ing drink match­ing – both boozy and not – adds di­men­sion to each course, as does eye-catch­ing plat­ing.

Since the get-go, Lûmé has marched to its own drum. Fol­low its beat and em­brace the road less trav­elled. ■ Must-eat dish ‘ Pearl on the ocean floor’ ■ Cui­sine Con­tem­po­rary ■ Chef Shaun Quade ■ Price $$$$ ■ Book­ings Yes ■ Open Lunch Sat; din­ner Tue-sat ■ In­sta­gram @restau­ran­t_lume

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