Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Delicious 100 -

864 MA­ROON­DAH HWY, COLD­STREAM 9738 9900 OAKRIDGEWI­NES.COM.AU With its glo­ri­ous vista across the vines, you could come to Oakridge sim­ply for the view and leave happy. Or, with its deep caramelise­d crust and mound of thick, golden but­ter along­side, you could also come to Oakridge, eat the bread and leave beam­ing.

These are just two rea­sons to visit this sleek win­ery restau­rant, with Matt Stone’s zero-waste kitchen draw­ing on Yarra Val­ley pro­duce.

Onion tarte Tatin is sticky and bit­ter­sweet, with soured cream that car­ries a hint of eu­ca­lyp­tus. Hot-smoked eel and cool egg cus­tard com­bine in a del­i­cate broth, while rain­bow trout with a chewy sauce is matched in the lick­the-plate stakes by a side of XO shaved Brussels sprouts.

Kan­ga­roo with David­son plum is such a note-per­fect celebratio­n of na­tional pride it should stand for the an­them.

Co-head chef Jo Bar­rett’s dessert of lemon curd, or­ange par­fait and man­darin granita is a symphony of cit­rus.

With that view (and bread) it all com­bines to cre­ate one of the state’s best-value meals. Must-eat dish Gin or­ange Cui­sine Con­tem­po­rary Chefs Matt Stone & Jo Bar­rett Price $$ ■ Book­ings Yes Open Lunch Thu-mon In­sta­gram @oakridgewi­nes

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