RE­VIEW

Who says it isn’t easy be­ing green? This bay­side new­comer

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - Contents - ME­GAN MILLER RE­VIEWS GREEN

Vi­brant plant-based dishes at Green.

IN times gone by, the creamy, the fried and the sweet were what you or­dered – be­ing vir­tu­ous was so damn dull.

Now healthy food isn’t the bor­ing op­tion. Mel­bourne has a new wave of well­ness cafés and Green is one of the lat­est where you’re not tempted to munch on the flow­ers at the ta­ble in­stead. The menu has bags of flavour and while it’s veg­e­tar­ian, the line-up is so en­tic­ing you might only no­tice af­ter­wards the com­plete lack of ba­con.

Opened in March, Green is the new­est mem­ber of The Pantry’s em­pire, which spans an en­tire corner tak­ing in Royale Brothers burg­ers, Hiro sushi bar, a deli and the name­sake flag­ship restau­rant, a Brighton in­sti­tu­tion that’s kept Mel­bourne’s mon­eyed in poached eggs and posh pasta since 1993.

Ser­vice at Green is mat­ter of fact but pol­ished, and meals land swiftly and pip­ing hot. The white-painted brick room ex­udes a boho chic, hold­ing an eaves­drop­pingly close 50 seats with a big take­away win­dow to the street.

Cof­fee is by Lavazza, but if caf­feine plays with your cir­ca­dian rhythm, go for kom­bucha on tap, an earthy latte of ca­cao, reishi and beet­root, or one of 15 juices, smooth­ies or ‘magic elixirs’.

Food-wise, the Half Dave – named af­ter the favourite break­fast of busi­ness part­ner David Evans, brother of TV chef Pete Evans – is a hearty as­sem­blage of piped av­o­cado and as­sorted plump heir­loom toma­toes, sharp­ened with goat’s cheese and capers and heady with basil. Pa­leo Pete would hate the wheat toast from El­wood Bak­ery, but it’s the per­fect mop for this juicy dish.

Green’s soba bowl, a restora­tive broth with a twirl of buck­wheat noodles topped with tofu, edamame and a for­est of green leaves, will put a spring in your step. Pan­cakes, too, get a rev-up – the discs made with al­mond meal are lav­ished with sea­sonal fruit, co­conut yo­ghurt and a driz­zle of maple syrup.

With healthy tucker this tasty, it’s easy be­ing green. 7 Church St, Brighton, pantry.com.au

FROM TOP Green’s take­away win­dow, and (clock­wise from top right) dukkah eggs, the

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