GREEN ZONE

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - On Sunday - 67 Collins Pl, Mel­bourne, laneway­greens.com.au

DAN STOCK RE­VIEWS LANEWAY GREENS

ALONG WITH ‘you’ll poke your eye out’, ‘if Matt jumped off a cliff I sup­pose you would, too’ and the counter-in­tu­itive yet strangely res­o­nant ‘I hope you’ve got clean un­der­wear on in case you get hit by a bus’, in the All Mother’s Do Say ’Em hand­book, the nightly ex­hor­ta­tion to eat your veg­eta­bles is right up there.

And like most of our mums’ ef­forts, their wis­dom (even­tu­ally) pays off. Cer­tainly look­ing around the sleekly simple sur­rounds of the new Laneway Greens can­teen in the city, it seems no one now needs to be told twice to make friends with salad. Though that’s likely less to do with nag­ging (sorry, Mum) and more to do with the bril­liantly big-flavoured bowls filled to burst­ing with good things to eat.

Some sup­pli­ers and their pro­duce – most local – are namechecked, but this isn’t a tub-thump­ing ex­er­cise in shame-driven #cleaneat­ing, but rather a flavour-first philosophy that re­sults in ter­rif­i­cally tasty fare.

Sharp and juicy house-made kim­chi pro­vides mouth-puck­er­ing cut-through to roasted salmon on wom­bok-car­rot slaw. Toasted buck­wheat brings crunch, and a soft egg and avo can be added for ex­tra creamy good­ness. What a lunch. Equally good is the charred chicken given ex­tra savour with the Ja­panese sea­son­ing shio koji, shar­ing the bowl with braised fen­nel and roasted Brus­sels sprouts – hum­mus and egg op­tional. There’s falafel for ve­gos, Cape Grim beef for car­ni­vores and steel-cut oats with stewed fruit for early ris­ers.

The naughty-good smooth­ies are al­most meals in them­selves – step up raw ca­cao and cof­fee with banana and dates – while drinks in­clude a cou­ple of beaut brews (the pil­sner from cult New Zealand brewer Garage Project for one) and nat­u­ral wines from the Ade­laide Hills by the glass or carafe.

With food that’s fresh, fast and fab, Laneway Greens is great. You won’t need to be told to eat your greens twice.

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