THE SWEET SPOT

love at Aus­tro, a new bak­ery-café putting an Aussie spin on Aus­trian clas­sics.

Sunday Herald Sun - Stellar - - On Sunday - 147-149 Ce­cil St, South Mel­bourne, aus­trobak­ery.com

ME­GAN MILLER RE­VIEWS AUS­TRO

WAS it the Dan­ish pas­try topped with golden potato gratin, or the cus­tar­dand-honey high of the bee sting cake that tipped us over the edge?

You can’t help but or­der up a storm at Aus­tro, its siren-call dis­play case lur­ing you with its shiny sweets as well as the more savoury and size­able of­fer­ings.

Af­ter sell­ing Yar­rav­ille’s pop­u­lar Haus­frau bak­ery five years ago, Sally Roxon opened Aus­tro in July. She and hus­band Chris­tian Gat­ter­mayr also have Al­bert Park café Haps­burg Empire and the Stand­ing Room cof­fee chain.

In the for­mer Let Them Eat Cake site, Aus­tro serves Aus­trian-born Gat­ter­mayr’s favourite fam­ily recipes, tweaked to a more mod­ern, lighter Aussie way of eat­ing.

Ev­ery­thing is made on site, and as much pro­duce as pos­si­ble is sourced from nearby South Mel­bourne Mar­ket.

Aside from its ar­ray of tempt­ing pas­tries and cakes – like the deeply rich sacher­torte and the spiced ap­ple strudel – there’s a range of breads and a short dine-in menu: dishes such as a pret­zel plate with cured meats, cheese and pick­les, and avo on dense pumper­nickel heady with car­away.

Don’t go away with­out hav­ing a pret­zel – plain and salty, or served with ham, Swiss cheese and sauer­kraut, or with baked egg and as­para­gus.

Tartines (open sand­wiches) come with a range of top­pings – pas­trami, pick­les and sauer­kraut, sar­dines with olive tape­nade, and roasted car­rots and cauliflower hum­mus.

Re­li­ably good All­press cof­fee seals the deal. And you’ll dine with a colour­ful mu­ral of the pic­turesque Aus­trian town of Hall­statt, painted by lo­cal artist Ava Clif­forth, as a back­drop.

There are plans to open seven days a week and to of­fer af­ter­noon teas and make gin­ger­bread houses for Christ­mas. A liquor li­cence is also in the pipe­line so beers can be paired with those thirst-mak­ing pret­zels.

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