Sunday Mail - Travel/Escape - - SCENIC BEAUTY -

Alfama is Lis­bon’s Moor­ish time cap­sule: a me­d­ina-like district of tan­gled al­leys, palm-shaded squares and skinny, ter­ra­cot­ta­roofed houses that tum­ble down to the glit­ter­ing Tejo. These cob­bles have been worn smooth by theatre-go­ing Ro­mans, bath-lov­ing Moors, and stam­ped­ing Cru­saders.

Women dish the la lat­est mex­eri­cos (g (gos­sip) over freshly washed laun­dry, men gut sar­dines on the street then fry them on o open grills, plump ma­trons erupt into wail­ful fado, kids use chapel en­trances as fo foot­ball goals, ba­bies c cry, bud­gies twit­ter, trams rat­tle and in the mid­day heat the web of steep lanes falls into its siesta slum­ber.

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