Escape
It’s picture-postcard New Zealand: grassland sloping to a cliff where a path leads to a beach called Sandfly Bay, a long strip of white sand dotted with about 20 boulders.
About 5m apart, three yellow-eyed penguins stand sentinel-like at the cliff’s edge and gaze out to sea.
“Their nests are nearby,” whispers my guide. Suddenly, a couple of boulders appear to move. It’s then I realise they aren’t boulders at all.
“Plenty of sea lions today,” the guide says, grinning.
Moments later we’re scrambling down the path, poised for a memorable wildlife encounter and assembling on the sand for a briefing: don’t walk between sea lions and the sea, don’t stand between mums and pups, don’t touch sea lions, stand well back from aggressive-looking bulls. Though big and blubbery, they’re exceptionally nimble. Males — bigger than females — are often 3.5m long, weighing 450kg.
The creatures we’re eyeballing are a threatened species called New Zealand sea lions — sometimes termed Hooker’s sea lions.
Sandfly Bay often reminds Australians of Kangaroo Island’s Seal Bay, one of South Australia’s most visited destinations, where it’s compulsory to have a ranger with you on beach walks.
But Sandfly Bay is less organised. Tours exist, but independent travellers can wander along the beach — just remember to pack your common sense.
Despite an absence of lions and tigers, NZ’s wildlife is varied and unique. Nowhere is this more true than around the South Island’s Otago Peninsula. SEA LIONS New Zealand sea lions are one of the world’s largest varieties, staying at sea for around two weeks (often as far as 75km from land) and diving up to 700m. Sadly, only 10,000 survive. Sharks are their main predators.
Strolling along the beach, I’m adopted by a sea lion pup. I vary my pace, but can’t shake it. It’s cute and nonthreatening, but I’m fearful of unseen watchful eyes of an over-protective parent.
I spot another path up the cliff and consider taking it. But then the pup veers off — heading towards a fullygrown seal nearby. See elmwildlifetours.co.nz PENGUINS It isn’t every day I get to say “Excuse me” to a penguin. But it happens as I explore a habitat of endangered yelloweyed penguins.
Military-style camouflaged trenches serve as “hides” (observation posts) for watching these rare birds, which live for eight years, becoming about 70cm tall.
Yellow-eyed? A guide explains the name refers to yellow feathers by each eye.
On a path beyond the trenches a penguin appears about 3m ahead of me. It’s a stand-off. As we stare at each other I remember a guide’s instruction: never approach penguins — though it’s fine if they come to you.
I cough, but the critter doesn’t move. Then it steps aside, leaving room to pass. I say, “Excuse me”.
A 90-minute northbound drive reaches Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony. Blue-tinged, they’re the world’s smallest, also called “little penguins” and formerly “fairy penguins” — the same type as at Victoria’s Phillip Island.
We huddle just after dusk as the birds’ behaviour is explained and penguins scurry between sea and nests. See penguinplace.co.nz, penguins.co.nz ALBATROSSES The Royal Albatross Centre, Otago Peninsula’s main attraction, is on a windswept headland called Taiaroa Head — the world’s only breeding site on an inhabited island.
One popular diversion at the centre has zilch to do with wildlife: an Armstrong Disappearing Gun, built in 1899 and maintained by a Dad’s Army of volunteers. It was a secret weapon against a Tsarist Russian invasion that didn’t eventuate.
Royal albatrosses, with 3m wingspans and 42-year average lifespans, are among the planet’s biggest birds. Landings and takeoffs are clumsy reminders of heavilyladen freighter aircraft.
Excitement mounts when people see an albatross — usually just one — arriving to feed hungry offspring. See albatross.org.nz FUR SEALS The difference between seals and sea lions? Sea lions are bigger, browner, louder. They have more prominent noses, use larger flippers to “walk” and boast visible ear flaps.
New Zealand fur seal colonies are strung along the country’s long coastline. Several are on the Otago Peninsula with vantage points on rocky outcrops above where seals frolic, fight and mostly just sleep.
Easiest sightings are from the MV Monarch. The vessel cruises at the base of Taiaroa Head. Not only do passengers see albatrosses landing on tussock, but they also spot other sea birds such as penguins, petrels and spotted shags. Dolphins arc out of the ocean, while waves whip a seal colony basking on rocks. See natureswonders.co.nz, wildlife.co.nz WHALES Beyond the northern extremity of NZ’s Dunedinbased “wildlife strip” (but still on the South Island) is Kaikoura, famed for whalewatching. The variety here is wide — enormous sperm whales, humpbacks, southern rights, minkes and others.
Most visitors whale-watch from boats — but aerial tours are an option. Also on tap: swimming with seals and kayaking among them. See kaikoura.co.nz TUATARAS South of Dunedin lies Invercargill, where another wildlife oddity awaits: a recreated habitat of live, hardto-spot-in-the-wild tuataras at Southland Museum and Art Gallery. These lizard-like creatures, typically 25cm and unchanged over millions of years, are the world’s oldest surviving form of wildlife.
Because they’re behind glass in a museum and can hold their breath for an hour, many visitors assume they’re stuffed — but they just look dead, until one dashes across the landscape. See southlandmuseum.com KIWIS Even farther south, Stewart Island all but guarantees you’ll see weird-and-wacky kiwis — NZ’s national, but flightless, bird. See stewartisland.co.nz