New Zealand
From fine food and wine to getting away from it all, these two islands are just a ferry ride across glittering water from Auckland, but a million miles away
There’s a gentle breeze across the ship’s bow as we glide off the berth in downtown Auckland and head out to sea.
As the skyline of New Zealand’s largest city fades in our wake, we move through the harbour into the emerald waters of Hauraki Gulf.
On the port side is Rangitoto Island, an uninhabited volcanic cone that blasted its way to the surface just 600 years ago to make it the country’s youngest landform.
There are 42 more islands in the area, but we are heading to just two, the most populated, Waiheke (population 8900) and the largest, Great Barrier (285 sq km).
To simply define the difference between the two would be in terms of nature and nurture.
Great Barrier Island is a gorgeous unspoilt spot where native forest runs down steep slopes to beautiful isolated beaches, and walking trails interconnect the paved road to a paradise of hot mineral springs, perfectly preserved wetlands and stunning views. Take a packed lunch.
Waiheke, on the other hand, is about food and wine, and it presents both to an international standard with that laid-back style typical of New Zealand.
ANOTHER TIME
There are some who joke that going to New Zealand is a trip back in time, but this is absolutely true of Great Barrier Island.
The Barrier’s local name is Aotea which means “land of many treasures” and today some of these are cars.
Most definitely reminiscent of the 1960s is the number of elderly station wagons with surfboards stacked high on the roofs whirring along the narrow winding roads.
The island’s east coast is on the edge of the Pacific Ocean and the white-sand beaches are shaped by great waves rolling in uninhibited by any land mass between here and Chile.
Only 800 people live permanently on Great Barrier and visitors are treated as part of the community as long as they know the rules.
“You don’t lock your car here,” says our super-friendly rental car guy, Ivan, as he hands over the keys to a well-worn Suzuki SUV. “Bet you can’t do that in Oz,” he adds as he hurls our luggage into the back.
And if you lose your car keys you’re an idiot for not leaving them in the ignition.
Go Great Barrier Island will organise just about any sort of transport to, from or on the island and anything else including accommodation, hiking, fishing, diving and cruises. (Their brochure says “just kidding” after whale rides.) Packages are themed for groups such as couples looking for romance, families seeking fun or trekkers looking to hit the tracks.
Should you wash up on The Barrier without an itinerary, go and see the super-helpful people at the tourist desk at the airport. greatbarrierislandtourism.co.nz
RARE BIRDS
My paradise is found sitting on the side of a pond watching a family of ducks. They’re not just any duck, but a rare brown teal or Pateke found only in New Zealand and, with less than 2000 left, they are threatened with extinction.
The five babies swimming about with their parents have been bred at the predator- controlled Glenfern Sanctuary on Great Barrier Island.
Many of the birds, reptiles and amphibians on the island are now extinct on New Zealand’s mainland.
The absence of predators such as stoats, rats, goats, ferrets, cats and dogs is one of the main reasons rare species survive on the island.
Head bush to see the taiko or black petrel, which breeds here, or the chevron skink that grows to 30cm and is found only on Great Barrier Island. We are delighted to see a kaka, a large noisy native brown parrot. glenfern.org.nz WINE COUNTRY Waiheke means cascading waters, but if someone tells you Waiheke is Maori for wine, you won’t be the first to believe it. The island has 30 boutique wineries.
A warm, dry, maritime climate and rocky soils makes it an ideal place to grow grapes, which are a weed by any other definition.
The wines produced here are mainly French-style reds such as syrah and whites such as chardonnay, pinot gris and viognier. Be prepared to pay a small amount for tastings.
Most of the vineyards have restaurants attached. For $40 a person Batch winery has a fantastic degustation lunch served on a stacked platter like high tea.
Local products go into a gourmet bacon and egg pie, meat loaf and salmon served with breads and cheeses, and topped with a pavlova. Batchwinery.com INTERNATIONAL ATTENTION A dozen years ago Waiheke Island was a quiet and fairly isolated holiday retreat where mostly Aucklanders kept a tinny pulled up next to a rustic weekender.
Today it is an internationally-renowned tourist destination that has been voted the
world’s fourth best island (by Conde Nast) and rated as one of the best regions to head to in 2016 (by Lonely Planet).
Just 18km or 30 minutes by ferry from downtown Auckland, Waiheke feels a long way away from a metropolis. But access is easy with three ferry companies plying to and from the island about 50 times a day.
Its attraction for both Kiwis and overseas buyers has seen properties sold on Waiheke for up to NZ$30 million, but it doesn’t have the feel of a Monte Carlo or Costa Esmeralda.
Waiheke has space to spread out with more than 40km of mostly quiet beaches.
The lovely Onetangi, where the quiet waves lap white sand and native trees provide shade on hot days, is a must.
ALL AT SEA
The description as a guided sunset and moonlight “invigoration” could not be more suited to a kayaking trip out of Matiatia Bay on Waiheke.
Our guide, Ross, is a veteran sea kayaker with 30 years of experience in giving people special experiences on the water.
We don’t circumnavigate New Zealand, as Ross has, but head out of port late in the afternoon for a sensory feast through the sunset, a long dusk and into the dark before we return almost three hours later.
When the light fades to dark our other senses take over, rather like a pleasant version of the once-popular float tanks. Sounds and smells become heightened.
Ross’s enthusiasm is contagious as he points out giant pohutukawa trees silhouetted against the fading light and, when it’s fully dark, the birds roosting in their branches.
Phosphorus shines like glitter on the water. The sickle moon plays hide and seek with the clouds.
This is a stunning experience enhanced by a remarkable guide. kayakwaiheke.co.nz
SEGWAY BUSH
Waiheke has New Zealand’s only off-road Segway experience. Segwai has half-day tours that roll along bush tracks, through vineyards and across olive groves.
There are a couple of routes depending on where you start. Our Bay to Beach trail deviates along a deserted beach and past a Maori marae, or traditional community grounds.
Aussie owner and guide Andrew provides plenty of local info and a chance to stop off at the Island Gelato Company where NZ MasterChef finalist Ana Schwarz whips up delicious iced confections.
Learning to drive a Segway is a skill most will thoroughly enjoy accomplishing and it is a unique and fun way of gliding about the island. Segwai.co.nz