New Zealand
Sporting rivalries aside, Aussies and Kiwis are pretty good mates. That’s why Australians like to hit the road to meet the locals when they go to New Zealand
There’s a reason self-drive holidays around New Zealand are popular with Aussies. Getting there takes just three hours on a plane from the east coast, the Kiwis are lefthand side road drivers just like us, and they speak the same language (well, sort of).
The South Island has proved itself to be a perfect driving destination with routes passing through incredible scenery, wine country and towns whose history dates back to the late 1800s gold rush. All with friendly Kiwi hospitality and a food scene that’s taken off.
If you’ve done the action-packed side of NZ there’s another fascinating side to explore – its heritage and culture. Here’s how to best soak it up on a road trip through the south.
CHRISTCHURCH
Shocking and fabulous are two words that describe the biggest city on NZ’s South Island, which was devastated by an earthquake in 2011. Rebuilding has produced some of the most incredible modern architecture with the mix of old and new pumping life back into Christchurch.
Jump on a bike tour with Vintage Peddlers for an eye-opening look around the city or go punting on the Avon, a testament to its colonial past, through its picturesque Botanic Gardens.
WHERE TO STAY: The Heritage Hotel is a beautifully restored building in the heart of the city with generous-sized rooms. Heritagehotels.co.nz
OAMARU
Drive two hours south of Christchurch through the Canterbury Plains to Oamaru, one of NZ’s best-preserved towns whose historic centre houses grand colonial buildings made out of the famous Oamaru limestone.
Scott’s Brewery offers boutique beers by the harbour and at night you 0can watch the blue penguins from the Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony as they come back to their land-based nests.
MOREKAI BOULDERS
Just a 20-minute drive from Oamaru is the coastal fishing village of Moeraki, home to the famous Moeraki Boulders – huge spherical rocks sitting on the beach formed from ancient sea floor sediments around 60 million years ago.
In this sleepy fishing village you’ll find Fleur’s Place – an unassuming but unbelievable restaurant made famous by the praise of celebrity chef Rick Stein. Cooking up seafood caught daily by the local fisherman, it’s quirky with a focus on fresh produce. You can order local wine by the tap or get more fancy by the bottle and you’ll eat some of NZ’s best catches such as blue cod, sole and scallops. Bookings are essential.
DUNEDIN
NZ’s oldest city, a university town and the wildlife capital of the country, Dunedin is a throwback to NZ’s Scottish heritage.
An hour’s drive from Moeraki, it’s become a bucket-list destination for bird lovers who come to see the world’s only mainland colony of Royal Albatross. Sitting on the Otago Peninsula, the Royal Albatross Centre is built on top of the historic Fort Taiaroa, a series of tunnels built over 100 years ago to counter the threat of invasion from Tsarist Russia.
Peer at the fascinating birds nesting from the old forts and see seals play down below. Make sure you take the “mountain road” back to town for what has to be one of the best drives in the world.
Two historic Dunedin houses worth the visit are Larnach Castle and Olveston House. Larnach Castle was built in 1871 by an Australian, William Larnach, on the Otago Peninsula. Now privately owned, you can take a tour of the Scottish baronial manor and learn of its scandalous and tragic history. It has one of the best views of Dunedin and beautiful gardens to explore.
Olveston House was built in 1906 by the Theomin family and was left to the city of Dunedin. Like a time capsule, the house was left with every piece of furniture, artwork and artefact in place. The house was designed by famed English architect Sir Ernest George, and is the only known house of its design in the southern hemisphere.
Take a day trip on the Taieri Gorge Railway, one of the most scenic train journeys through Central Otago, leaving from the historic Dunedin Railway Station. Pass from flat land to valleys before climbing higher into the barren, yet beautiful, rocky country.
WHERE TO STAY: Camp Estate is the luxury accommodation on the castle grounds with the option of a three-course dinner inside the castle. Campestate.co.nz
CENTRAL OTAGO
This is real “ooh” “ahh” country. The threehour drive from Dunedin to the historic mining town of Clyde is spectacular. You’ll be saying the words, “it’s just so beautiful”, at every turn.
The restored heritage mining town of Clyde sits on the important and mighty Clutha Mataau River that is now a popular region for cycling.
The best way to understand its history is to combine a river cruise with a bike ride. Local cycle company Trail Journeys will take you on a cruise along the dramatic Roxburgh Gorge where you will pass by rarely seen European and Chinese gold mining relics. See the remains of the miners’ makeshift homes built into the sides of caves by the river as they panned for gold in often harsh and freezing conditions.
Disembark the boat after a cup of tea and cake and take the 10km cycle track by the river back to the town of Alexandra. trailjourneys.co.nz
Next stop is lunch — and no visit to Central Otago is complete without a detour through its wineries. Known for its pinot noir, head to Mt Difficulty for a tasting and lunch on its deck. The views over the region are fabulous and the food perfectly matched to its popular pinot noir, riesling and pinot gris wines.
WHERE TO STAY: Olivers in Clyde – a beautifully restored bed and breakfast on the main street of town that was originally built as a general store in 1869. The rooms are tastefully furnished in warm, country fashion with hospitality to match. oliverscentralotago.co.nz
QUEENSTOWN
It’s not hard to understand why Queenstown has become the tourist mecca that it is today. An hour’s drive from Clyde, it sits on the huge Lake Wakatipu surrounded by dramatic mountain ranges and with direct flights to Australia, it’s easily accessible.
Take the TSS Earnslaw, the world’s only coal-fired steamship in operation in the southern hemisphere, across the river to Walter Peak homestead for dinner and a farm show. realjourneys.co.nz
Queenstown and the historic mining town of Arrowtown close by were big centres for mining. Take a private tour by four-wheeldrive with Private Discovery Tours to Skipper’s Canyon out the back of Queenstwon on hairy dirt, winding roads for a fascinating look at the remains of the miners settlement. privatediscoverytours.co.nz
WHERE TO STAY: The newly opened Hulbert House is incredible. A restored heritage home, its interiors have been fabulously designed with no expense spared. hulberthouse.co.nz