Your questions answered
Expert solutions for everday problems.
CPU temperature fluctuation
I’ve been using Open Hardware Monitor to control my CPU fan. This was the only app I could find that controlled it. I have an Asus ROG Strix B450-F motherboard, AMD Ryzen 5 3600 overclocked to 4,150MHz, and the stock AMD CPU cooler. I tried to control the fan from the motherboard, but it didn’t work. I also have two NVMe SSDs, two SATA SSDs, ODD, three 140mm case fans, and a 120mm case fan, all fans blowing inward, all housed in a Corsair 110R case.
My question is why does the temperature in the processor vary over a six-hour period when the voltage, fan speed, and room temp don’t change? Do I need a better cooler? Check out the six-hour graph I have attached, and you’ll see what I mean.
Papa Homey
TechLife responds: Your CPU is never completely idle, so it’s unsurprising that the temperature fluctuates as the CPU load changes – even if you’ve left it to its own devices. Background processes continue to run, while even light use of your PC to browse web pages or edit a text file will have some effect. All you need to do is open Task Manager to the “Processes” tab, then click on the “CPU” tab to see the constant ebb and flow in CPU usage, which will correlate to temperature changes.
Looking closely at your graph suggests that everything appears normal – your CPU temperature tends to fluctuate between 55-70C, which is well below the “safe” figure of 80C. Improving your cooling would help reduce this figure further, and TechLife is intrigued as to why all your case fans are drawing air into the case – you should ideally have the fans at the rear drawing colder air in, while fans at the front blow the hot air out. So, if you’re not currently
doing this, a simple rearrangement of your current setup should help drive those CPU temperatures down further – even when overclocked, your CPU should be around 40C while idling.
Is free software safe?
Two questions if I may: First, I keep getting these notices that Java needs to be updated. Is there a program out there that will list/ show which programs I have on my computer that require/are using Java to run?
Second, TechLife usually recommends free software in some of its articles. Some of them look interesting, but I’ve always been concerned as to whether free software is safe to use. Do I have a reason to be concerned? Along those lines, I saw that you mentioned Malwarebytes. What is the difference between the free version and the version you purchase?
R.T.
TechLife responds: Sadly, there’s no way to find out which applications require Java on your PC, short of generating a list of apps installed (use “Settings > Apps > Apps & Features”) and then Googling each one to see whether Java is listed among its system requirements. Or you could simply remove all versions of Java from your PC using the Uninstall Java Versions tools ( www.java.com/en/ download/uninstalltool.jsp) and wait to see which programs complain when they can’t find it (in which case, just download it again from www.java.com).
If the frequency of updates annoys you, type “configure java” into the Search box to open the Java Control Panel – use the “Update” tab to stop automatic updates or reduce the frequency of checks to monthly, but if you do so, we also recommend switching to the “Security” tab and unticking
“Enable Java content for browser and Web Start applications” to close a potential security loophole.
Moving on to your second question, if the program gets a thumbs up from the mag, you can be sure we’ve investigated it thoroughly, scanned it with our own security software, and installed it on our computer. These days, there’s usually a free program that offers most – if not all – the functionality of paid-for products. TechLife relies on lots of free apps on a day-to-day basis, whether it’s Paint.NET for photo editing, Handbrake for video encoding, or Bitwarden for password management. We’re particular fans of open-source programs, which make their code available for anyone to view, audit, or even fork off into a separate project. Such transparency makes them more trustworthy.
That’s not a universal guarantee, of course – there is plenty of dubious software out there, both free and paid-for, so the usual caveats apply. Start by reading up about an app that interests you – Google its name with keywords such as “review” and “malware” to gauge its reputation. If you decide to download it, make sure you do so from the author’s website or a trusted mirror such as MajorGeeks. com. Also, be sure to scan the downloaded file for malware – your anti-malware software should do this automatically, but there’s no harm in right-clicking it and choosing the “Scan” option to confirm.
Lastly, Malwarebytes AntiMalware is a great secondary layer of protection to run alongside your existing anti-malware program. The major difference between the free and paid-for versions is that the paid-for version offers four real-time protection components that cover malware, ransomware, exploits, and web (dodgy websites) – all without interfering with any
existing anti-malware software. The free version will scan and remove malware threats, but you’ll need to remember to run manual scans regularly.
USB Cable Replacement
Thank you for keeping up the magazine in these trying times. You guys are awesome! I had my joystick plugged into the USB 3.0 plug, in front of my machine. As I walked by, I bent and cracked the little plastic thing inside. So, I opened the case, removed the cable that plugs into the motherboard to find out that it split into two USB 3.0 connectors plugged into the front of my case. I called the manufacturer to find out they don’t make them anymore, and they hung up on me. The cable is 40cm from tip to tip. Can you refer me to someone who makes them, as I’m having trouble locating one?
D Dominguez
TechLife responds: This question became a heck of a lot easier to answer because you’ve thoughtfully provided a series of photos of the defective part in question, which revealed the key connectors we needed to identify in order to source a generic replacement. At one end is a
20-pin female motherboard connector, while at the other are two female USB-A ports designed to slot into place in the case chassis. Sadly, you forgot to list the case make and model, which made things tricker.
The two female USB-A ports aren’t molded in plastic, which narrows the available options down. In the end, we resorted to a Google Images search for “20-pin connector to USB port” to perform a visual inspection of potential matches. This led us to the closest match we could find, a 1.6-foot cable from Toptekits ($16.60, www.amazon.com/dp/ B010NBLRHK). The biggest issue will be the Toptekits screw mount, which you may need to shave to fit your case.
If it’s impossible to fit, you could try an alternative approach if you have a spare external 5.25-inch drive bay – fosa’s 5.25-inch multifunction reader includes three USB 3.0 ports and one USB-C port for under $28 ( www.amazon. com/dp/B07CK17QSY/), and connects to the same USB socket on your motherboard as the original cable.
Choosing Headphones
Dear TechLife, there are so many headphones! I’d like to purchase a sub-$300 pair of cans. It should have Bluetooth and ideally a wired 3.5mm jack, plus perhaps a removable or retractable microphone. Great sound goes without saying: I’m not a superaudiophile, but I would like a pair that will last me and be able to be used on both my PC to game with friends as well as to listen to some music in comfort.
There’s so much choice, how do you begin to sort through them all? I’m starting from the beginning and am just so lost. Archimedes Inferno
TechLife responds: There’s no substitute for piggybacking on other people’s experiences – namely reviews – but while user reviews are important, you should always remember that many may be fake, although these tend to be easy to spot given they’re so effusive with their praise. With that in mind, professional reviews from reputable magazines and websites like What Hi-Fi ( www. whathifi.com/products/ headphones) are crucial. These also help steer you away from one of the many dozens of cheap brands towards more established, reputable names.
Beyond this, looking at your wish list, one crucial factor stands out: Longevity, which again highlights the importance of steering towards a well-known brand. This will push the price up but should still give you ample room within your $300 budget. The upside is that you’ll gain access to a website with meaningful support, including forums where you can get a feel for a pair’s reputation from other users – one thing to remember is that you’ll find plenty of problems and complaints that may skew your feelings, but unless lots of people are reporting the same unresolvable problems, keep those gripes in perspective.
The other consideration you mention is comfort. Some people are fine with earbuds, whereas TechLife prefers larger cans that can physically block out the noise, while sitting comfortably over rather than inside the ears. That said, this type can grow uncomfortably hot with prolonged use, so consider how long you’d want to listen with them in a single sitting.
Finally, some other considerations: If you’re opting for Bluetooth, choose Bluetooth 4.2 or later, and if audio quality is important, make sure it supports the higher-quality aptX ( www. aptx.com) codec. Battery life isn’t as important if you’re mostly playing games, where you’ve got access to an easy charge, but you do want something that won’t need constant recharging, so aim for 10 hours as a minimum.
Finally, if you’re still struggling to start your search, visit a website like Static Ice ( www.staticice.com. au) where you can input your budget to throw up a list of candidates. We stuck in your budget, and Static Ice suggested several models, including Audio Technica’s ATH-SR5BT for $280. TechLife’s owned a pair of wired Audio Technica ATH-ES7 cans for nine years, so it’s a brand we recommend.