Bot­tle Stop

Tony Love

The Advertiser - SA Weekend - - COVER STORY -

WHEN you en­ter the wine world pro­ducer d’Aren­berg, cer­tain rules and ex­pec­ta­tions seem to change.

Nam­ing con­ven­tions to start, where wines are grouped as “so­cialites”, “stump jumps” through to the “ar­ti­sans” and “icons” with in­di­vid­ual wine names as mad as “Stephanie the Gnome with Rose Tinted Glasses” and “The Cenosil­i­ca­pho­bic Cat”.

With new la­bels re­cently de­signed and into the mar­ket­place, what you see and what you get is a whole new set of thrills and spills as a con­sumer.

Across the board the red stripe re­mains the most recog­nis­able brand­ing de­vice, and in the set of three icons, it re­mains as much the call­ing card as the rep­u­ta­tion of bench­marks The Dead Arm Shi­raz, Cop­per­mine Road Caber­net Sau­vi­gnon and The Iron­stone Press­ings GSM.

The lat­est batch is from the 2010 vin­tage and all sell for $65, which for their sta­tus is very at­trac­tive given the many big gun reds de­mand­ing $100 plus in­vest­ments.

The 2010 vin­tage has pro­duced some many are get­ting bet­ter and bet­ter as their con­cen­tra­tion and power mat­u­ra­tion. This is yet to un­fold fully in the d’Aren­berg The Cop­per­mine Road 2010 Caber­net Sau­vi­gnon, which is still tightly wound, the black berry and cur­rant fruit com­pressed into a solid block while its sec­ondary dark choco­late char­ac­ters are now pow­er­ing out of the glass.

If you open this now you are go­ing to need a di­nosaur steak to stand up to it, you’ll see some­thing else.

The Dead Arm 2010 Shi­raz again is deadly in its con­cen­tra­tion and com­pres­sion with some match and just ap­pear­ing. It’s still all mus­cle, un­coil­ing will un­earth a whole other beau­ti­ful beast.

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