A thing of beauty, LV’s party animal, and one for Don Draper’s wrist

GRAND SEIKO SLGH005

The idea that beauty is in the eye of the beholder doesn’t apply to Grand Seiko. The hypnotic quality of the dials is simply an objective truth. Many of the brand’s pieces are inspired by Japan’s natural beauty and this textured dial evokes the satiny bark of the white birch trees aound the studio where the mechanical watches are made. Against this thicket, Grand Seiko ensures you can see the wood for the trees with mirror-polished hands that show up darker against the dial, which is further enlivened by the blue seconds hand. The SLGH005 is also the first standard-issue watch to feature the superlative new movement released last year, previously reserved for ultra high-end pieces. It all adds up to a formidable package from a brand that continues to nail it in terms of value, craftsmanship and design. $13,600

LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR DAMIER GRAPHITE RACE

You know that friend of yours who’s loud and exuberant? Slightly dangerous company, but always a real hoot at parties? This luxury sports watch is his horological equivalent. It’s a sizeable proposition at 46mm, with a dial that’s cheerfully bonkers. The chequered backdrop references Louis Vuitton’s trademark pattern, and to further reinforce the brand a gigantic two-tone V dominates the dial. Adding to these maximalist vibes a riot of lime green accents brings extra pep to the dial, rubber bracelet and crown. Purists might quibble that this visual hullabaloo detracts from the chronograph’s legibility, but this watch values fun over pragmatism and there’s a time and a place for that too. $11,800

LONGINES SILVER ARROW

Longines’ back catalogue is the gift that keeps on giving, with its Heritage collection yielding an endless production line of retro classics. The latest is a modern revival of the Silver Arrow, first released in 1956. Tactful concessions to contemporary times have been made: the case diameter has increased from 35mm to 38.5mm, boxed sapphire crystal now protects the face, and there’s 30m of water resistance too. Otherwise it’s a reassuringly faithful revival, with applied indices on the dial maintaining the original’s ridged texture. The effect is a watch you can imagine on Don Draper’s wrist as he raises another Old Fashioned. $3050