TRAVEL: Broome’s bounty, the Great Ocean Road, and cruising to Japan and Taiwan
As the southern gateway to the rugged Kimberley, Broome is a popular destination for travellers looking to explore this unique part of Australia. And as the glorious colours of the landscape literally stop you in your tracks, it’s easy to see why, writes Sue Wallace.
Think glittering turquoise waters, snow-white sands, blue skies and ochre red dirt. No matter how many photos you have seen, nothing quite prepares you for those vivid hues of the historic pearling town that’s the southern gateway to the Kimberley.
Back in the 1890s, Broome was a ramshackle town as well as a world leader in supplying pearl shell. More than 400 pearling luggers would be anchored in Roebuck Bay and divers from Japan, Malaysia, China and the Philippines donned heavy canvas diving suits and metal helmets to harvest pearl shells from the ocean floor. The colourful history of the early pearling days can be discovered at the Pearl Luggers Museum, which displays original diving artefacts.
These days, multicultural
Broome is still home to a pearling industry but instead of master pearlers’ houses lining the dirt roads, you can do a pearl store hop along Chinatown’s impressive showrooms, where you will find all the big names, including Paspaley, Allure South
Sea Pearls and Kailis.
There’s plenty of other bounty to be found here – if you are lucky, you may catch Staircase to the Moon, a natural phenomenon caused when the full moon reflects on the exposed mudflats of Roebuck Bay at extremely low tides, creating the illusion of steps. It only happens at certain times of the year.
Another memorable experience is heading to the pristine 22-kilometre Cable Beach, fringed by turquoise waters. Roll out your towel and watch that golden red sunset blaze across the skies or catch it from the Cable Beach Club Resort Sunset Bar – Broome Sky cocktail in hand. Or hitch a ride with a camel for a trek along Cable Beach and watch your shadows dance along the sand as the sun sinks into the ocean. The Broome Adventure Company offers morning and afternoon Fat Bike
Tours on the compacted sand as well, which is a great workout.
Details at broomeadventure.com.au
To delve into the past, Bart Pigram, who is a Yawuru man from the West Kimberley region of northwest Australia and grew up in the town, shares his great knowledge of his Aboriginal and multicultural history on his Narlijia Tours. Bart retells ancient stories his way and shares poignant locations – his newest being the Life of Guwan town tour exploring Broome’s colourful history, and a catamaran Cultural Cruise where he talks about the traditional saltwater lives of the Yawuru (details at toursbroome.com.au).
Broome’s vibrant Courthouse Markets is all about art, culture and community, and is a great place to discover local treats, including coffee, fruit juices and bread. Stunning art and craft is also showcased and you will find locals who enjoy a chat.
It really doesn’t take long to fall under Broome’s spell – no wonder some holidaymakers go for a week, fall in love with the relaxed lifestyle and return for a lifetime.
Food, glorious food
Eating out is an adventure in Broome – enjoy great coffee and a brekky burrito at the Good Cartel, dine at Zanders at Cable Beach with water views and a webcam to wave to family at home, and Matso’s Broome Brewery is famous for its mango and ginger beers, plus great curries.
You will find stunning views overlooking Roebuck Bay’s azure waters at the Mangrove Hotel, and book well ahead for Cable Beach Club Resort’s intimate Japanese restaurant Zensai, where chef Joji Iwama stars. The Zookeepers Store – in the
grounds of the former zoo that was once home to exotic antelopes, hippos, cheetahs and a large collection of birds – offers tasty home-made treats. Love Asian-inspired dishes? The Aarli in Chinatown has an innovative menu offering share plates and cocktails.
The stars of the show
Look up – you won’t find clearer night skies than in Broome in the dry season, and astronomy guru Greg Quicke, who runs two-hour Astro Tours, loves sharing its secrets. Known as Space Gandalf after his appearance on the ABC’s Stargazing Live program, he brings the skies to life and provides large telescopes to scan the star-studded galaxies for a spectacular light show. “Broome is located perfectly on our planet to see the best of both the Southern Hemisphere and the Northern Hemisphere, so it’s a pretty special place and the skies are clear for at least 300 nights a year,” says Greg. Visit astrotours.net
Spread your wings
New to Broome, a full-day scenic flight with Go Horizontal Falls Tours provides a bird’s eye view of the stunning Cape Leveque coastline and over the thousand islands of Buccaneer Archipelago. The 13-seat Cessna Caravan aircraft also lands at Cockatoo Island for a two-hour boat cruise through Yampi Sound to Talbot Bay and the turbulent Horizontal Falls. You will discover the unique geology, history and culture that the Kimberley is famous for. Visit gohorizontalfallstours.com.au
Don’t miss
The annual Shinju Matsuri Festival (Japanese for Festival of the Pearl) will celebrate its 50th anniversary next year from August 29 to September 6. Highlights include a floating lantern ceremony, sunset long-table dinner, art exhibitions, and events that pay tribute to Broome’s heritage and cosmopolitan population. Festival President Chris Maher says, “It’s a dynamic festival that highlights the past and the present, with entertaining events.” Visit shinjumatsuri.com.au AWW