exploring the Top End
Braving possible crocodiles and snakes, Genevieve Gannon explores the savage beauty of the Northern Territory.
As we stand at the base of Kakadu’s spectacular Gunlom Falls, our guide gives us a warning: “It’s a bit of a climb.” Water cascades from on high into crystal bluegreen waters below. The falls are made up of two parts: the lower achieved fame in a Crocodile Dundee scene, the upper is harder to access but reportedly beautiful. “If you go, be careful,” our guide cautions.
Disregarding his warning, I set off for the top and soon come to regret it. The red-dirt path is steep, the sun is high and there’s not a scrap of cloud in the azure sky to protect me from it. When I reach the end of the path I’m faced with a rocky climb. I put my thongs into my bag and begin clambering barefoot up the boulders. Then, another obstacle – the trail disappears into tall, yellow grass. I haven’t seen a soul since I started the climb so there’s no one to reassure me there aren’t any snakes lying in wait. I replace my pink plastic thongs and stamp my foot a few times, then gingerly take a step into the grass.
The clearing is undeniably beautiful in its own right but I’m too busy watching for poisonous serpents to appreciate it. I forge on and make it to the other side. From there, it’s another slippery climb down into the waterhole that feeds the Gunlom Falls. When I reach the banks I take a moment to enjoy the perfect view.
Before me is a vista of unearthly beauty. Reddish-orange rocks surround two pools under a piercing blue sky. The larger pool spills into the lower one. From there the water tumbles over the edge, but a rocky embankment between the two creates a natural infinity pool. I remove my dress and slip into the water.
Resting my arms on the ledge, I can see for miles. Beyond the edge of the waterfall lies a land tinted every shade of green.
Each day in the Top End has been more breathtaking than the last.
Eventually I scramble back down and splash into the water in the lower Gunlom Falls. The inviting pool is shallow and warm with soft sand underfoot. We’re only three days into the tour and I feel like I’ve been away forever. I’m starting to forget what traffic feels like.
Our journey began in Darwin, where I spent some time hunting down street art. The storeys-high murals are far grander than anything Melbourne has, and more interesting than Sydney’s art. The images – mostly of people – are painted either in tropical colours or in striking monochromes, and are an unexpected treat in our northernmost capital.
From there I joined a tour that provides a taste of the Northern Territory’s natural beauty. The first destination is in Litchfield National Park. Florence Falls are twin waterfalls that pour into a natural plunge pool, where the water is as clear and as green as a jewel and dappled sunlight falls on the scene of families enjoying the water. Grandparents help little children stay afloat on foam pool noodles, giving the place the vibe of a friendly community
pool, albeit a spacious one nestled among the trees. I splash about for a bit and am reluctant to leave the water. The air is hot and dry, and it’s a relief to return to the air-conditioned comfort of the AAT Kings tour bus. The scrublands that fly past the window are mesmerising, and people on the tour shout with delight as they spot roos and a dingo. There’s a sense of timelessness as the guide tells us stories of the land’s indigenous caretakers. We break for the night at the Wildman Wilderness Lodge, in the Mary River Wetlands, where we’re served an excellent three-course meal before retiring to luxury tents. Roos laze around our temporary homes and the canvas walls let in the sounds of the night.
We greet the next dawn with a river cruise on the Corroboree Billabong. Birds spread their wings in a display as we sail past. One among us is a former soldier who spies two leathery crocs lurking in the marshes, which adds some excitement to the relaxing boat ride. From there we travel to Kakadu, where we visit an ancient Ubirr rock art site and make the climb to the Nadab lookout for an unforgettable sunset that bathes the landscape in golden light.
Our treat next morning is a scenic flight over Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Our aircraft feels as light as a paper plane as we glide over the land, the water and ancient rocks, feeling like gods. Then on to Nourlangie, which is home to a rich collection of Aboriginal rock art “galleries”. Our evening is spent in the luscious Cicada Lodge. We eat canapés under a pink sky and then move into the dining room for a meal created from native ingredients.
The finale is a river cruise through the majestic, golden cliffs of the Katherine Gorge, where we’re treated to a show from a crocodile swimming lazily by our boat, graceful and happy. It’s wonderful to see such a fearsome creature enjoying its natural habitat, and as we admire him, I can’t stop thinking of the song, Never Smile at a Crocodile. But in such breathtaking surrounds, on such a perfect night, it’s hard to resist. AWW
“I am reluctant to leave the water.”